This poll will be up for two weeks in the 4G Sonata forum. If you have any "pertinent" input please pay a visit !

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/t32574-poll-...-on-nitrous.htm

Hi,
As a new user and allways used k & n air filters in past cars i owned I found a marked difference
in idle quality and saw a increase in mileage. I will replace my sonata air filter with a k & n
shortly. I have 21000 miles right now. Just bought the car and love it.

Cold Air Intake and chip, how much should I expect to gain?
Which are the best products to use to maximize hp? 2001 Tib.

Thanx

Okay i Just got my first car lucky me its a 2008 TiburonV6 GT and i love it but i want to get more speed and power from it i need performance parts unfortunatly i know next to nothing about cars..... so im asking for help if anyone can give me a link to some performance parts for my new tibby id be really greatful.... i love my tiburon and im willing to go to the extremes to make it unique

ok people im in need or help desperatly... i need performance options without an engine swap for my 2000 hyundai accent. Its a 4 door> and im really looking into turbo, but i really cant find anything made specifically for this car, any help would be greatly appreciated. any other cool performance parts or other stuff like body kits( only found the evo 5 kit so far) head and tail lights, exhaust options, cat options, nos, any tips at all will help. this car is hard to find stuff for. i love my car and dont wanna sell it, but if i cant come up with some options soon, i will have to sell it to get a car i can tune.... PLEASE HELP!

Alright, more like 3468cc

I have a theory to produce 3.5 liters out of the 3.3 lambda. It goes a little like this...

Since the 3.8 and the 3.3 are very similar, I thought, why not put the crankshaft from the 3.8 into the 3.3? (this is where the 3468cc comes in) This probably won't yield too much of a horsepower increase, but would definitely produce more torque.

So what else makes the 3.8 in the Genesis (than the 3.8 in the Azera) produce more hp/tq? (other than ecu tuning)

In the Genesis the intake cam opens earlier than the 3.3 and closes later than the "regular" 3.3/3.8. So if my understanding is correct about this, having the intake open longer will enable more air to be pushed into the cylinder. The 3.3 tends to run a bit rich, so more air will lean it out a bit. Might as well do the exhaust camshaft as well b/c there would be a bigger gap where both exhaust and intake valves are open if using the Genesis intake cam with the stock exhaust cam vs both i/e cams from the G.

There are other things to consider, but from the info I've gathered through hmaservice it seems possible. Then again, anything is possible with $...

What do you guys think?

I've searched for a CAI for my 09 Sonata but i only found http://www.globalautoshop.com/accessories/...undai_index.htm and i dont know too much about B&B or their quality. Could anyone give me some advice on CAI's for the 09 Sonata?

Hi everyone, first time here... Hoping you can help me out because I am in major panic mode!!!

I have a 2001 Hyundai Elantra GLS with about 109k miles on the transmission and I think around 60k on the engine (previous owner took it in for scheduled maintenance at 60k miles, something went wrong and the engine blew so the dealer replaced it). So tonight I was driving on the freeway around 65-70 mph and all of a sudden there was a loud thud under the front of the car toward the driver's side, and the check engine light turned on immediately. I panicked and pulled to the side of the road thinking maybe a tire blew or something, but the car still ran so I got off the freeway and pulled into a parking lot. It didn't seem like I had hit anything and there were no weird sounds, nothing dragging, no smoke, no weird smells, engine temp was normal, etc. Eventually drove it home very slowly and the only things I noticed were that when I switched into and out of reverse the car seemed to jump, and when I would accelerate from being stopped it took a little bit longer for my car to get going. Seemed like the brakes might be a bit different too, but I couldn't be sure because I was trying to drive it as gently as possible! When I got home I turned it off then on again a few minutes later, and it still started. Overall it just feels like the car doesn't have as much power.

Can anyone tell me what is going on and if it is okay for me to drive my car? I spent $1200 less than a year ago to do maintenance (oil change, alignment, air filter, tires), fix an oil leak, replace the front left wheel bearing, replace the belts, etc. I'm an incredibly broke college student and this could not have come at a worse time... I live way up in the hills and If I can't get to work and school then I am completely done for! Any help would be greatly appreciated!

**Not sure if this has anything to do with it but about a month ago the interior air randomly stopped working. I would turn the fans on full blast and no air would come out, but the a/c and fans still worked because I could hear them switching on/moving. Anyways after about a week I was driving and all of a sudden the air came on full blast and has worked perfectly ever since.**

Hey I'm looking at replacing front to back my ehaust set up. I want a subtle deep throat to it... not loud and obnoxious... looking at a borla muffler for the end a 4-2-1 header is on its way. Next question... what size of piping should i use? This is the first mod but by no means will it be the last. I dont want to remove too much pressure but i dont wanna end up ripping it all off later. Also for a subtle more quiet tone should a high flow cat and resonator be tossed in the mix? let me know what you think. Thanks.

350+ HP 2.0 w/5 speed What Clutch to Use.

Looking for a good clutch to use with my 2.0 5 speed set up good for 350+ HP

I have a 2000 accent 1.5, and was thinking of having the head port an polished to gain a lil more power. My ? is if i do this wat affect will it have on my engine and will anything happen to the bottom end of my engine. Is it even worth doing?

Hi I recently purchased a second hand 2006 Hyundai atos 1.1L prime Automatic from a close family member of mine its hardly ever been driver and has less than 20 000km on the clock, its a great car and I really enjoy it, but...

Its seems to be a bit lacking performance wise especially considering the fact that its a automatic(want to keep it auto though), I really want to get a bit more out of it, and don't mind sacrificing a bit of fuel economy in the process.

So is there anything that I can do myself to the car(after market kits/accessories) that do actually work, or is there anything I can do by taking it into a expert to have fitted/modified?

A friend of mine recommended chipping it,can this be done on a atos, I've tried a few local dealers and all of them seem to not keep anything for my car,and to be honest I dont know if I can trust there "advice" too much

I can find my way more or less around on a engine but never really did anything like this.

PS I dont really want to do anything that might kill the engine within a year...


Thanks in advance for any help

Ok, so heres the deal. Im a low budget racer with an associates in automotive and a good enough tool set to fix/build almost anything. I'm lookin to get a second motor to build while I drive the factory one around (light mods). I've pretty much got my internals locked (unless you think you have a good set up, Im always lookin for another perspective) for the supercharged powerplant Im lookin at. My issue...the money...a block off ebay or locally through a junk yard is about 400-800 on a crate. There is a place in town that u pull your own parts and motors are only about a hundred to a hundred and a half. They have a 99 2.5 V6 that looks strikingly similar to my 2.7 V6 and I am curious what the differences are. If its a question of different crank and rods but same bore then I'll scoop that stuff up but I dont really need a boat anchor if the bores are different. So if any of you spec people could answer that, I would much appriciate it.

i hear they robb performance
i hear they give performance

anyone wanna give me the straight and narrow on this?
and specifically for my size of engine

1.6L

Hey everybody - new to the forum and was hoping someone could point me in the right direction for performance parts and quality upgrades for the '09 Sonata. I have the base model in Slate Blue with 35% tint all around. Will post pics soon.

More specifically - Does anybody know of cold air intake for the 4-cyl?

I HAVE A 2004 SANTA FE 3.5 L THE ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON AND OFF AND I RECENTLY HAD PROBLEMS ACCELERATING OVER 15 MPH I SHUT THE CAR OFF AND RESTARTED IT AND IT RAN FINE THEN YESTERDAY IT WOULDN'T ACCELERATE AND ALMOST STALLED AGAIN I SHUT IT OFF AND RESTARTED IT RAN FINE I TOOK IT TO AUTOZONE WHO SAID IT WAS MY THROTTLE POSITIONING SENSOR BUT IM READING MANY POSTS THAT SAY IT COULD BE OTHER THINGS ANY IDEAS ON HOW TO NARROW IT DOWN WITHOUT COSTING A FORTUNE (DEALERSHIP WANTS $95 TO LOOK AT IT)

i got trashed so hard at school cause my car doesnt go as fast as a vw

Hey guys real quick one.

I am replacing my friends clutch.
The old clutch disc fell out upon removal (along with its broken springs).

Now, the new one doesnt say Flywheel side or anything on it.
Which way do i need to install this?

I put it in with the protruding side facing the flywheel and my gut feeling is telling me its incorrect.
I have yet to put the trans back on but have attempted it and ran out of time (aligning it was a pita).

Someone please fill me in with which side (protruding or non protruding) face the flywheel before my friend puts the box back on!
I need to contact him asap.

The car is a SOHC Hyundai Excel (Australian version). Pretty sure they're labelled something else in the US but im sure the clutch discs on most would be similar.

Surely some on here have replaced the clutch.

Any responses muchly appreciated.

I have a 97 Sonata and have been experiencing shifting problems - it will drive fine for a wile then all of a sudden it will not shift - you can drive 40-50 mph but the rpm's run way up - you can hear the difference - also the speedometer will go haywire and go from 0-120 then back and forth - eventually it will stop and be correct. I had the transmission serviced and it did not help.

Could this be the throttle position sensor? If so do I need to take it to a dealer?

Hi,

I'm just breaking in my Sonata as per the owner's manual (keep between 2000-4000rpm). But I feel like I'm killing the engine, and there's a smell when I exit the car after driving for even 15-20 mins.

I've read up about breaking in an engine online and it says to keep changing speeds. Is it more important to change speeds or rpm? How long should I keep it at one speed before changing it up? 1min? less or more?

I'm also using tiptronic for this, but I'm really bad at it. It's such a choppy ride. Does anyone have any suggestions? Am I ever supposed to shift all the way down to 1st gear, coz it seems very dangerous.. and what is lugging and how does it feel? Is lugging possible with tiptronic?

I just feel lost and would like any advice on breaking in the engine. Online it also mentions that you should change your oil at about 1000km to get rid of the break-in buildup, but the owners manual doesn't mention anything.

Thanks in advance, B.

As the topic states, this thread is about putting a scoupe motor into an excel.
I have a number of questions:
How easily does it go in (engine mounts bolt right up or major fabrication job)?

What parts (excluding ecu, loom, etc) from what car do i need for it to work (just the engine, or gearbox, cv shafts, etc.)

Obviously i will have to upgrade the fuel lines and pump from carbie to injected.

Looking for some performance parts for a 1997 Elantra GLS 1.8L.

I'm looking for a good intake (need to know if this will set off a check engine light)
complete exhaust system, headers, downpipe, cat, cat back.

Hi there evryone .. i am thinkin of getting a new performance muffler .. without upgrading anything else .. mayb later get a 4-2-1 headers .. but for now am keeping the rest stock .. will dis muffler make a little difference to the cars performance ? is it better to change the piping to bigger ones ? hot big are the stock ones 'n how big can i upgrade them without sacrifycing torque ?

I was just looking to improve the rigidity of my Sonata in order to help with the cars handling. I starting looking around and like always, performance parts are few and far between. I was just wondering if anyone has used this strut bar or have any ones that they used on a 2006-2009 Sonata? Appreciate the help!

hey guys, I have an 04 santa fe and I wanted to make a cold air intake out of pvc pipe and I've seen it done, but I haven't seen it done on a santa fe. Anyone done it and has pictures?

has it helped?

thanks

Okay I have the 2008 Tiburon GT V6 with the automatic Transmission. Basically I'm wanting to do a few things to my car. Everything in the car is still stock as Ive only had it about a month, and one of the things Im wanting to do is get a supercharger for it. Is there anything special I have to do since it is an Auto trans?, or for that matter will a supercharger work the same on an auto as a manual?

Ok, so, i just changed out all the plugs/wires/coil pack, alternator, and the fuel filter on my car. The problem is, whenever i start it now, it chugs really bad, sputters and won't go unless i hold the gas all the way to the floor. It is an older car, with over 140k miles on it, the exhaust was just redone about a month ago. The only DTC's i could pull were O2 sensor related, and so i'm going in to get those fixed today, but those are only for low voltage readings.... would those low voltage readings be causing my car to sputter and die like this?????

Hi everyone - my apologies for knowing basically nothing about internal combustion engines. I am having an issue with my Accent 2002 GS manual transmission that I cannot figure out and I was hoping someone could explain what it possibly could be. I am presuming this could be easy for people with actual technical knowledge, so thank you in advance! It is something that is difficult for me to explain without knowing all the technical terms, so my apologies once again.

The problem started just a couple of days ago where the car starts up fine and backs up fine, but when I put it in first and try to give it some gas, it feels like the engine is unable to keep a steady amount of power. Instead, it vibrates so much that it feels like I'm trying to start the car from 0 in second gear. Everything is fine if I put it in gear and do not add any gas, but once I hit the throttle it jerks quite steadily and the "check engine" light starts flashing.

I figured it might be engine knocking, as this started happening after I filled up about half the tank with low-grade octane fuel (which I normally use). Fearing this, I went to another station and added some high-octane fuel (13 liters worth) to try and dilute the fuel if that was the problem. I also added in a fuel de-icer as it has been cold lately and I was worried there might be some water in the fuel line. Sadly neither attempt has helped. Any ideas as to what can be causing this?

Ok,

I have a 1997 accent 1.3, car was idle for couple of weeks while i had new keys cut, but cant start it now.

So far battery seems fine, charged it, and its fairly new anyway, the plugs are new (and sparking) had top of fuel filter off and petrol pumps through, even tried spraying eths through air intake to see if that would spark it, no luck there.

Any advice would be greatly appriciated!

Hi, I have a 92' Hyandai Sonata. I have been having trouble with it for a while now, it would stall either right after start up, or 10 minutes down the road, but it would always start up again. Yesterday I started her up and she stayed idleing at 250 (and lower) RPM. When I hit the gas she drives ok. But when I stop at a light or whatever the RPM falls back down to below 250 and the whole car begins to shake, the oil and battery meter fall as well. I have taken my car to the mechanic and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. PLEASE HELP!

I have a Hyundai coupe 1.6 16 valves (year 2000) and i found a 2.0l engine from a 2004 model... May i , can i technically speaking , are they alike or do they have different bindings ?!?!

can someone please help me ! !!

Mega Squirt is the registered trademark of an aftermarket electronic fuel injection (EFI) controller designed to be used with a wide range of spark-ignition internal combustion engines
It is a complete standalone fuel injection and ignition controller with proven software and hardware. The hardware provides for fuel, ignition and idle air control. It works well for turbo applications as well.

KFX has partnered with a Mega Squirt distributor to supply custom applications made specifically to work within the parameters needed to run Kia and Hyundai, gasoline powered automobiles.

Provisions are made to allow the use of air conditioning and variable valve timing.

The options listed are as follows


#1 will be the standard unit that will come with instructions on wiring it to the stock plug. $499.00 plus $15 Shipping

#2 will be the standard unit that will come Plug and play and wired to a stock plug $599 plus $15 Shipping

#3 will be the upgraded unit with larger MAP, and boost control that will come with instructions on wiring it to the stock plug $559 plus $15 Shipping

#4 will be the upgraded unit with larger MAP, and boost control that will come Plug and play and wired to a stock plug $659 plus $15 Shipping

The option is to add on an innovate wideband lc1 02 sensor. $216 shipped

This is currently available for all Hyundai and Kia products with a gasoline engine.

Bill

So for the last 4 months the noise of my car could only be described as "the Motorboat" lol. it sounds like a old **** motorboat is parked in my driveway, and thats just at idle. when you drive it the engine is so loud you cant even hear the readio. i brought it to my dads dealership and they said it was a manifold leak due to the center pipe being cracked.( probally from my off roading adeventures while hunting, getting stuck in the mud). im the second owner of the car (94,000 mi.) so from what i understand that breaks down the warrenty to 60,000 mi. as oppsed to the 100,000.

with that being said my questions are

1. if the car first belonged to my uncle, and he just gave it to me, do i still have a 100,000 mile warrenty

2. the dealership told me $280 to fix while meineke told me $90( does this sound correct)

3. does anyone know how much the part cost?

Hey all, I've gotten myself into a slight predicament, or the military has forced me into it, but to make a long story short, i've been putting together a turbo kit for a few months now, and all i'm lacking would be injectors, and a new ecu (piggyback, or standalone). Now, some things have come up, and it's pretty much forcing me to either get rid of my turbo kit in the next 2 weeks, or put it in without either of these things which i'm not to fond of either. but if i were to keep the psi low enough could i get away with not having a new ecu, or the injectors, even if it's only 4 psi until i can get these two items at a later date? Any an all help would be very greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Hi All,

I did a 200 mile trip to Liverpool yesterday in my S Coupe Turbo, everything was ok until i got to the city center...oil light kept flashing and there was some slight smoking so i pulled into a car park and got mums partner to meet me and bring some oil as it was pretty much empty...put in a litre or so and when driving off the car was just emmitting clouds and clouds of thick smoke...even got moaned at by a woman for polution!!!

it also felt alot more sluggish after that...just started it up again and it's still smoking like a ****

Any ideas what this could be??...i was thinking head gasket but don't want to think the worst as i'm so far away from home.

Any help would be greatly appreciated,



Jay

Im trying to buy a cold air intake for my 05 V4 Tiburon, can anyone tell me / link some good ones for me to decide between? Price range is no higher then $400 .

Dear guys,
here you can find a Turboconversion for Getz and I10 with 1.1 12v engine !
http://www.protoxide.it/preparazioni/I10.htm
Please check again in the next days to view the videos of car is running!
For now without intercooler we done 107 hp @ 0.6 bar with standard engine , and the car run everyday without warning engine lights!
All parts are made in ProtoXide : www.protoxide.it
See you soon !!

My 2008 4 cylinder Sonata had shift problems. Not terrible problems but frequent and annoying. Upshifts were not smooth enough, eg from gears 1 to 2 and 2 to 3. When driving a constant 40 mph the car would vibrate slightly and make a noise, more like a shutter than a lug. When I took the car in at 300 miles a service technician said he could find nothing wrong, and the adaptive computer would take care of the problem over thousands of miles. The problem was not better after 1200 miles, so I took the service manager on a test drive and demonstrated the problem at 40 mph. I then brought the car in for service. A service technician this time found a Technical Service Bulletin to fix noise vibration at 38 to 42 mph. He applied a software update to the Transmission Control Module. Besides fixing the noise vibration problem at 40 mph, the software update also appears to have made upshifts better (softer and smoother). I'm glad I didn't wait thousands of miles before having this checked more thoroughly.
I could not find the Technical Service Bulletin. Can anyone help me find it? Thanks.

hello,

i own a 1995 hyundai lantra 1.6 GLS automatic.
great car but i got a problem with the economy and normal button.
when i set this button to economy it drives the same as on normal.
so i think my economy mode doesn't work.
when i look at the manual they say that when economy is activated, a light should glow on the dashboard but there's not.
so i think the car is driving in normal mode all the time and the car only gears up on high rpm (guess at 3000 or 3500 rpm)
the normal mode is some sort kind of sports mode, so it takes the most out of the engine.
wich causes a fuel consumption of 5km on 1 litre fuel this is not normal for this car.
and i think when it is on economy it shifts up earlyer (at 2000 or 2500 rpm) so this should drive a lot cheaper.
does anyone know how to fix this problem with the economy mode?
or what it could be?
i really think that it is not working for now.

thanks in advance

greetz,
smoothoperator

i just bought an 2006 sonata V6 with 34,000. the gas mileage sucks!!!! what's the best way to get this more efficient?

...I'm so smart, i bought a turbo from a '91 Subaru Legacy, put it in, ran it down the street it did ok 5-ish psi ill get pics up soon, but hey i have a 2000 Hyundai accent how do i remove the inhibitor so the car will go faster?

ive been to the hyundai site and looked up the 05 santa fe and cant find the amperage of the alternator. just found a thread about an 07 santa fe with a 130a alt but i dont know mine may be different. if i could find the thing id just look on the side of it...i really dont know my way around under the hood

and since ive got your attention, have any of you car audio enthusiasts done the "big three" upgrade? id like to do that but i sure could use some photos. i just got this vehicle and i dont want to explode anything just yet.

Anyone tried these tips? I have problems with points (3) and (5). Help anyone?

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What if I told you that you can gain 5 horsepower this weekend, for less than $100? Or, what if I told you that you could gain 5 horsepower this weekend, for less than $20?

I bet you'd be interested, eh?

Well, the good news is, I'm going to tell you how to gain 5 horsepower this weekend for $0-15 spent. Sound too good to be true? Well, read on!

1) Increase the H2O ratio in your coolant - if it weren't for corrosion and freezing concerns, automotive makers would use pure water. Water cools much better than coolant any day of the week, and a cooler engine is a better performer.

Instead of half and half, try 40/60. DO NOT use pure water, As this may cause premature corrosion and that can be no fun at all to clean up. You may also try water wetter to further enhance this effect.

2) Index your spark plugs - this is an age old trick that is good for about 1 extra pony. The idea here is to "aim" the open end of the spark plug terminal (the gap) towards the intake side of the head. In order to accomplish this, simply mark on the plug a small line to indicate where this gap is, and install the plug as normal.

Try to line up the line with the intake side as best as you can. It may require buying 2 sets of spark plugs in order to do this, but hopefully you'll be able to do this the first time. Be careful with aluminum heads not to over tighten, as that could lead to a costly repair.

3) Relocate IAT Sensor - This is a very simple modification that will work on a great deal of fuel injected vehicles. The IAT sensor (“Intake Air Temperature”) tells the computer how hot or cold the incoming air is. The computer will then adjust the amount of fuel being injected, as well as make minor adjustments to timing based on that reading.

The problem is that in many vehicles, the IAT sensor is located in the intake manifold, near the cylinder head. Therefore the air that the IAT sensor “reads” is much hotter than the air, say, in the intake arm. The idea with this mod, is to relocate the sensor to the intake arm. Use JB Weld or similar to patch up the old port for the sensor.

This will cause the computer to believe that incoming air is slightly cooler, causing it to inject more fuel and advance the timing a tad.

4) Synthetic Oil - This is guaranteed to pick up 1-2 horsepower, as multiple dynos over the years have proved this fact. Simply by switching to a true synthetic oil this weekend you can reduce the friction in your engine, improving efficiency, and therefore going faster.

5) Insulate Fuel Lines - When your fuel lines travel through the engine bay they heat up. However, cooler fuel produces more power for more reasons than just cooling down the intake charge--although that certainly helps things! So, to improve power output, simply purchase some refrigerator/air conditioning insulation and wrap the fuel lines with the insulation. While you're at it, you may wish to go ahead and do this to the intake arm as well for even more power.

any good tips on just general tuning of an engine ?
like getting more efficiency without mods?

I just put on a performance exhaust and midpipe for hyundaiperformance.ca.

Just wondering if adding a magnaflow hi flow catalytic converter would affect sound at all(make a louder, deeper tone)?

What about a megan racing header?

Thanks.

My sonata 2001 is idling really high and the rpm fluctuates from 2000 to 4000 back and forth.In addition,when I let go off the break pedal it takes of as if I were accelerating.Another problem is when in gear and I take the foot off the accelerator the car just keeps going as though I were giving it gas.Would any member out there have an idea as to what the problem might be?

I'm currently having a problem with my throttle body, yes I'm sure its that and not the tps. I replaced that and still have the problem. The thing is, a couple weeks ago a friend and I replaced my intake manifold with another 1 that is bored out to match my 65mm bbtb. I put on a new gasket along with intake manifold spacer and adjustable fuel pressure regulator at stock fuel pressure. When I'm cruising down the road I take my foot off the petal to slow down a little but when I apply very little pressure back on it jerks instead of being smooth. What I think is the problem is that the throttle plate is not closing fully which the tps is reading as partially open. I've tried spraying lubricant on it but it doesn't help at all. Any suggestions? I plan on doing a vacuum test as soon as I can spare the money.

Hey I have a 99 Hyundai Accent 1.5L 4cyl Auto 3DR Hatchback …

My tranny has had a harsh 1st & 2nd … slow lifting (drags from 0-25) then sticks on 3rd. Im thinking about improving the performance. The shopman told me to just have a new tranny put in. But I want more bang as well. I was considering putting a new engine: OEM Engine 1.5L SOHC (assuming that’s what it has now)

Now Ive been reading and researching, found out I can fit a 99 Hyundai Tiburon Engine for 50% more performance … 2.0L inline DOHC 4-Speed Auto … is this true?
Would it affect the car if it’s a SOHC swapping to a DOHC?
Would the engine bolt in place? The Tiburon engine in the accent?

I found a site that would sell, ship and warranty a used engine for 1K but I want to make sure I know what Im doing first.

The shop is being hesitant to give me the info ….

Thanks