Just made this video for you guys

A video showing step by step how to retrofit LEDs into your side markers.

http://video.cardomain.com/VideoPlayer.aspx?id=698533

what would you do to make the video better?

feedback is appreciated


Materials/Tools:
- Tape
- Cutting discs
- Dremel
- Screwdriver
- Marker
- Primer
- Paint
- LEDs
- Resistors
- Wire
- Solder
- Soldering tool
- Pliers
- Compressed air
- Clear silicone
- Common sense

I don't see every thread I'm only one man. I am a full time father also. I don't have time to read every single thread so if you have a problem please report it and I or one of the other mods will take care of it.

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Andy Zain
Hyundai-Forums.com

I searched on the Metra website, and if you search for 2008 Hyundai Accent, you won't find the right harnesses for your radio IF you have the stock XM radio installed like I do.
BUT if you search for 2009 Hyundai Accent (as recommended by my local audio specialist), you will find the following 2 things.
http://retailer.installationexcellence.com...ehicleid=224431

and
http://retailer.installationexcellence.com...ehicleid=224431


I'm not 100% about the first harness, but the 2nd one (the antenna harness) looks like exactly what we need to make our antenna work with our aftermarket radios!!!!

Please refer to the pictures I took in this thread to see what the car's harnesses look like in a 2008 Hyundai Accent SE with stock XM Radio.
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/t29833-after...nstallation.htm
Specifically this picture:

Well Glock asked me to make a write up on how to install the Rostra Cruise Control Unit, so I felt like being a good guy and did. I may have forgotten a few things, as I installed this kit a week or two after I bought my car so if there's any problems, let me know.

OK. First off, let's get by far the hardest part out of the way, the portion that took me roughly 3 hours to do, as I didn't know where to put this thing to make it look factoryesq, though now that I've done it I could do it in less than a half hour.

The Servo:

I mounted it on the LF strut tower with the bracket included, as there was a nice stud Hyundai left us. Cut, bent and painted the bracket to make it look as close to a factory piece as possible. You can see in the picture how I routed the servo cable behind the engine bay.

[attachmentid=9746]

The Cable:

After that I routed my cable around the motor to the TB. You must cut threads into the cable (the plastic shielding), all that you have to do for this is use the nut included in the package (just a regular nut) and thread it on and spend about a half hour cutting a thousand threads into the cable. After you're done that, you turn on the cable bracket/clip, make sure you spin this on the right way, because if you don't, like I did, you have to spend another 10 minutes spinning it off. When you have that all done, Rostra was nice enough to include slotted piece of steel (just a piece of steel with holes drilled into it to make a bracket) so I took that, cut it so I only had two holes (one is a big square one for the cable clip), then made a 90 degree bend in it. There was a nice bolt on the intake that I just removed, placed the bracket underneath, and bolted it back down.

[attachmentid=9737]

In this picture you can see the galvanized piece of steel that I made the 90 degree bend in, and where it's bolted to the intake, you can also see the copious amount of threads I cut (I cut extra so I wouldn't have to turn the nut back on, just in case) and the black plastic cable clip that you thread onto the cable afterwards.

[attachmentid=9738]

Just another view so you can see how it is routed.

After that you need a way of attaching it to the TB, Rostra was nice enough to supply a bracket for that, that will work for our cars as well. To install the bracket just remove the nut from the throttle, and put the new one in place and tighten it back up. Then you need to cut a piece of the balled cable that Rostra supplied, I used 4, I don't remember the formula to figure out how many you need, as this was a long time ago. Essentially the balls prevent the cable from pulling too far, giving slack, and burning out the servo motor. Then just attach the proper style of cable end on the end of you ball cable, a loop style, and slide it onto your new throttle bracket with a washer and secure with a cotter pin (all included in kit).

[attachmentid=9740]

And Another View:

[attachmentid=9739]

There, we're all done by far the hardest, and longest part of this installation.

Switch Installation:

This part is easy. Remove the steering column cover, and mark where you would like to put the switch, being sure there is sufficient room behind your chosen location for the wiring to have room, then drill the hole (I forget the size of this hole, 1/2" or something like that). The put your switch in and route the wiring down the column, being sure to keep it away from any moving parts. I chose my location so I didn't accidentally bump it and break it. Also, be sure you have enough leg room so you don't knee it either.

[attachmentid=9743]

Standards Only
Clutch Switch

Ok, since my car is a standard, I needed to have a way of disengaging it when I hit the clutch, so I ordered the kit with the clutch switch. This part was very simple thanks to Hyundai. Crawl under your dash, and you'll see a bolt (used as a stop) on a bracket in front of the clutch pedal. Drill that out ever so slightly, and slide your clutch switch in. Adjust the switch, using the nuts on the switch itself, until when you lift up on the pedal, the pedal is just barely touching the metal part of the switch (button fully depressed). Don't have the switch too far in to stop the pedal from coming up, as, that would be bad.

[attachmentid=9741]

The Wiring:

First thing you need to do is cut a hole in the firewall to route the wiring through. I found a nice place right beside the main harness. I believe the hole I had to cut was 3/4" maybe 11/16". Anyways, when you're drilling this hole BE SURE to check where you're drilling. The brake booster, brake lines and slave cylinder are very close to that hole, just just make sure you're not drilling them. Then just seal it with the included sealer.

[attachmentid=9745]

Ok, for the wiring from the Rostra harness now.

Black Wire:
Ground. I just mounted this to an existing grounding point on the strut tower near the servo.

Brown Wire:
This wire has a little flexible tip on it to install along with a fuse in the fuse box, just be sure the fuse you select is a power with key on only.

[attachmentid=9736]

Red and Violet wires:
These are your brake power and cold wires. Just use the included connectors and clamp them onto your brake wires. I don't recall which was which for sure, but I believe green was power, red was cold. So in this case, Red would go to Green, Violet to Red. Just to be sure though, take a test light, puncture the wire where you plan on connecting the wires, if the test light lights up, that's your hot.

[attachmentid=9735]

Standards Only
Clutch Switch Wiring:

I believe all that needs to be done for this, if I remember correctly, just cut your Violet wire, and put this BETWEEN (meaning BOTH wires are between the servo and brake switch) your servo and brake switch. So basically just run it in a series after the brake switch. So cut the violet, attach one wire to one end of the violet, and the other to the other end of the violet.

Gray Wire:

This is your VSS wire (Vehicle Speed Sensor). Since there was no diagram for this, I just went out of gut, what most cars use for their VSS wire, and just so happens it happened to work. Colour was Red/Orange and pin location 6. EVERY CAR IS NOT THE SAME. So be sure to check what colour your VSS wire is. I just connected it behind the Data Link Connector.

[attachmentid=9744]

Now pop the wires from the cruise control switch into the connector supplied (looks like the common 4-pin computer power connector) and connect that to the one on the servo harness. Your cruise is now installed, on a stick car anyway.

As for Automatic cars, there is a Dark Blue Tach wire and an Light Green NSS wire (Neutral Safety Switch) and honestly I have no idea where you guys would decide to hook them up. So those two wires are up to you guys with Automatics.

Now, before you take this thing out for a ride, there are switches on the Servo that have to be set to your specific vehicle, they are under a rubber grommet, 12 of them. The positions I used for mine are as follows:

Gain (Sensitivity)
1 - On
2 - Off
Pulses Per Mile (Ours are 4000)
3 - On
4 - Off
5 - Off
6 - Off
Engine/SetUp Timer (How fast cable retracts: Low)
7 - On
8 - Off
9 - Off
VSS Source (On = Car)
10 - On
Transmission (Off = Manual, On = Automatic)
11 - Off
Control Switch (Open circuit or Closed: Mine is open)
12 - Off

Well I believe that should cover it. If I missed anything, or if somebody has a problem, feel free to ask.

Cheers.

Firstly, thanks to Komptek for the idea. This DYI is now complete with pictures. The car in this DYI is a 2008 Hyundai Accent SE.

TOOLS NEEDED:
-Needle Nose pliers (this is a MUST)
-Regular pliers (relatively small)
-You may want to wear gloves so your hand doesn't get destroyed like mine (see last picture)
-PATIENCE

NOTE: Click the pictures to be taken to a High-Resolution version. Also, the names of the pictures are the timestamps, to give you an idea of how long it took me to figure out what I needed to do, then accomplish it.

1) Remove the Intake Hose (the BIG RUBBER RIBBED HOSE, not the small hose near the arrow!) from the Manifold, by loosening the screw. Go ahead and prop it on top of your engine to get it out of the way.


2) These are the two hoses in question. They are UNDER the Intake Manifold seen in picture 1.


You're going to have to use the Needle Nose pliers to turn the clamp so that it faces you. This is painfully difficult. You've been warned. You can then use Regular pliers to move it down the hose.


3) Finally managed to yank the tube off. This may take a lot of HARD pulling, but it should make a pleasant *pop* sound when it comes off. Don't worry about Coolant spillage either. During the course of this DYI, I think I lost 3 drops of coolant, and I wasn't even trying to be careful.


4) This is the other end of the hose you just disconnected. If you can't find this for some reason, just follow the hose you disconnected at one end, with your fingers until you find this end. Voila. Once again, using the Needle Nose pliers, you have to get the clamp to slide down the hose using the same method you used for the top connection of the hose. This is going to be incredibly difficult. Take this hose completely off. Put it somewhere, it doesn't matter where. Throw it in your garage somewhere. Just try to remember where you put it in case you for some reason want to reverse the MOD.


5) SUCCESS! You're half way done! Don't worry, the rest is pretty simple. Except for the next step...


6) Going back to the Intake Manifold, you have to twist this clamp so that it will face you, the same way you had to for the other hose. This is the hardest step because you have VERY little room to work with.


7) 7 minutes of twisting and pulling and the clamp is almost down far enough for me to disconnect the hose!


8) 12 minutes after I started trying to get this hose off, it FINALLY came off. Remember, you're only disconnecting the TOP of this hose. DO NOT REMOVE IT COMPLETELY. It took a LOT of realllly hard pulling and yanking. Just be careful to not let the pliers cut open the hose. I wrapped a small piece of paperboard around the hose before yanking it, just in case.


9) You may want to pull the hose around UNDER this wire, just for the sake of neatness.


10) READ CAREFULLY!! Take the TOP of the hose you just disconnected (STEP 8). Now, connect it to the ENGINE, where you disconnected the FIRST hose (STEP 4) (the first hose was the one you completely removed). Make sure you slide the clamp back up the hose, onto the receiving end on the engine! The last thing you want is to have to go back in there to fix what you were too lazy to do right the first time! If you have questions, please REREAD this instruction 5 times before asking. It should be very clear.


11) This is another view of the hose you JUST CONNECTED to the engine.


12) With any luck, your hand won't look like mine did after I was done.


13) Put the Intake Tube back onto the Intake Manifold the same way you got it off (tighten the screw).

Congratulations! You've now got a heck of a lot more power at your disposal! Enjoy! It would probably be a good idea to leave your hood open and start the engine at this time to make sure you aren't leaking anything. I'm not, so you shouldn't be either if you can follow directions and pretty pictures.

I have not been able to get an idea of the gas mileage differences yet as I just did this mod 2 days ago. Please give me a week or so to post the findings. As for the coolant temperature, since I know you're all going to ask... there is no difference, according to the Temperature Gauge, in coolant temperature whatsoever. But you will sure as heck feel a difference when you drive!!

Items Needed:

Phillips Head Screw Driver
1-3/8" Ratchet
1-10mm shallow socket
1-3/8" x 6" extention (optional)
1-Wire Strippers
1-Wire Crimpers
Wire Terminals (2 sets of disconnects (male and female ends) and 2 spade)
12" of Red Wire (I used 12 gauge for this project)
12" of Black Wire (I used blue because that's what I had)
1-Fiamm Freeway Blaster Horn E (Part #72102)
1-Fiamm Freeway Blaster Horn F (Part # 72112)


Step 1:

Open Hood



Step 2:

Remove 7 phillips head screws (you will have to loosen them almost all the way out, and then pull them to remove the bottom portion of the fastener) and 2 - 10mm bolts from the top of the bumper (all screws and bolts are located with red arrows in the picture)





Step 3:

Remove the stock horn by pulling the top of the bumper out gently (and not too far) and locating the 10mm bolt that holds the stock bracket to the chassis.



Step 4:

Disconnect the power to the horn by pushing in the button, and pulling the plug out of the horn.



Step 5:

Remove the bracket off the stock horn by removing the 10mm nut that holds the bracket on.



Step 6:

Once you have removed the bracket from the stock horn, you will notice that there are actually 3 brackets put together to make one. You are going to make a "V" shape out of the pieces of metal. You will have one strip on one side of the "V" and 2 strips on the other.

OK here it is. The Engine Damper from KFXperformance. I'd rate this add-on a must have 8 out of 10, the install was on a 2007 Accent SR. It has the DCsports Strut bar and AC. Some modification is needed.

1. You will need a longer screw and washer to mount the front bracket.
2. You'll need to cut out a section fo the DCsport strutbar.

[attachmentid=8763][attachmentid=8764]

Ok, I took the time to do this work and now I want to share it to you so you get to know how would our headlights look with this mod.

The first thing you need to do it to take your headlights apart. It is very easy just 2 bolts and 1 clip and you dont have to remove the bumper just the bolts and clips of the grill and you can reach one of the bolt of the headlight. You should know where is the other bolt (upper part of the headlight).

Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery or remove the battery negative terminal first when removing, while putting the battery again connect positive first, there should never be the negative terminal connected to the battery without the positive connected.

Unplug the headlight connectors and remove the turn signal bulb.

This is how the OEM look


Remove this screw.


To open the headlight you can use an oven or a heat gun. I recommend using a heat gun because it is easier to control the heat. It takes 10-20 minutes to take the headlight apart.

If you are using a heat gun. Use the heat gun at low level and start heating one side of the headlight (for example the upper part). Heat it like 2 minutes and have the heat gun like 5-10 cm from the headlight.


I didn't use gloves, be careful not to burn yourself. Start prying the section you heated. After you pry one side a little bit repeat the same process with the other side. Now go again to the first side and heat it again because it will cool down while you are working in the other side. Pry until you get them almost apart.




When you are about to get them apart just heat all around and then with your hands pull them apart.


Set aside the reflector part.

Unscrew the trim and unclip it from the plastic cover. Take out the trim.


Now remove the orange reflector from the trim. Becareful not to broke any clip of the reflector. There are 3 clips, one on each side. If you brake more than two you can just glue the orange reflector back when you finish painting.

For the reflector of the turn signal you cant remove it, so use masking tape to cover it, or you can paint it if you want. If you paint it the light will be decreased.


Wetsand the chrome off with 320 grit paper.


Then apply primer first. Read the instruction at the back of the spray can. After the primer let it dry for 2-3 hours then wetsand with 600 grit paper before painting. Do not press to hard or you will take the primer off. You can use any paint, I recommend using a high heat paint, but it is not necessary. Make sure to read full instructions of any thing you spray.

Let the paint dry 3-4 hours. If you use high heat temp you may want to heat set it. Just heat it with your heat gun until you can feel it hot.

If you want to you clear coat it is just repeat the same process. Wetsand the paint and then clear.

Clean everything very very well. Put back the orange reflector and the trim. I used compressed air to make sure there was no dust or any particle inside my headlights.

To seal it put the headlight parts back again just as before you pulled them apart with your hands. Heat one side of the headlight and when it is hot push them back as hard as you can. Repeat the process with the other side and then repeat it until you see it is good together.

Use some black high temp silicone all over where you pry. Just to make sure it has a good seal.

After all the steps above I putted shop towels where the turn signal bulbs and the halogen bulbs were and let them absorb all the moisture that could be inside the headlight. Leave it like that about 3 hours. Put the bulbs back.

Reinstall the headlights.

Enjoy!

2008


Found this online.

2008 Hyundai Accent Car Stereo Wire Color Codes

Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Red
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Green
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black or Gray/Black
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Yellow
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: Pink
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: Blue
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Black
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Red
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Green

2007

Car Radio Constant 12v+ Wire: Red
Car Radio Switched 12v+ Wire: Green
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Yellow
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger: Pink
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: Blue
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Black
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Red
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Green

2006

Car Radio Constant 12v+ Wire: Red
Car Radio Switched 12v+ Wire: Green
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Yellow
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger: Pink
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: Blue
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Black
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Red
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Green