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What's a good percentage off MSRP from Hyundai?

9K views 20 replies 13 participants last post by  dtech 
#1 ·
I've only bought Honda's and Toyota and last car was about 17% off MSRP. Does Hyundai deal as much?

What did you get off MSRP? Price before TT&T (those vary in cost between states).
 
#3 ·
I tend to find out the invoice price and then work the Dealer based from that point, keeping in mind any incentives etc....You can have an easier time of that closer to the end of the month when the Dealer might be trying to hit a quota....
 
#4 · (Edited)
Are you a member of Sam's Club or Costco or BJ's Club or one of the other clubs? They have a car buying service that gets you highly competitive quotes. You can use that to leverage a good price from a local dealer.

Edmund's purports to give the price most people are paying for any make or model. I don't know how accurate it is.

Also compare the resale value of the various cars and compare them with the original list price. Hyundai does not command the highest resale price so the savings can actually be smaller than they appear.

Also shop on the last one or two days of the month. Dealers have quotas that give them money back from the manufacturer if they hit their quota. If they are close to a quota they can lose money on the single transaction and still come out ahead based on the discount for hitting the quota.
 
#6 · (Edited)
I had "heard" there was "about" a 5-6% markup on Hyundai's. What you need to be aware of (regardless of alleged markup) are those dealer "packs." Things like Market Adjustment Value: $2,000. Or, Nitrogen tires:$499.00. Then, there's the other big profit items: paint and interior protectants: $:eek:. All, of which, give the dealer a distinct advantage in showing you a substantial discount.

What it all boils down to: "A good deal is all in your head." If you think you got a good/great deal, you did. That's a non-comforting statement when you take the psychological (and emotional) mumbo-jumbo during the buying process in consideration. Whoever came up with the "rebate" idea at the corporate level created a monster for the manufacturer. And the American buying public now demands rebates, cash back offers, low APR, etc.. We're conditioned to wait/look for the savings and rebates.

I always thought, "If the manufacturer can offer $xxxx rebate for a limited time, why can't they just drop the MSRP price that much and reduce the price of the vehicle all of the time?"

Possibly too much logic in that statement, I suppose... ;) But, where's the fun in that? We all love to haggle, argue, get up, sit back down, digest the various sales comments/ploys, the 4-hour process it takes to buy a car. Sure we do.
 
#7 ·
Completely refuse to pay ADMU (Market Adjustment). I even got them to drop the ADMU on a low-volume, very popular car, because the salesman knew he had a sale if he did.

If you don't want to pay for the other things, and can wait, tell them so. I don't want pinstriping, nitrogen in the tires ("air" is something like 70% nitrogen already...), paint 'protectants' (they wash off anyway...good wax will take care of that...) etc; so I will take the next one off the truck. If they don't like it, go to another dealer. You'll find one that just wants to make sales.
 
#9 ·
I go in there with no urgency to buy the car, and tell them I want 20% off. They ask why, and I say because I know you can do it. They may try to get you close, but ive bought 3 hyundais, and got 20% off.. Now, the fun part, ive had to walk out of the dealership 3 times. Twice, they chased me out to my car, and once they let me go, but then called me about an hour later..
One thing youve got to tell them is that out of the probably 50 dealerships in a 30 mile radius, this is the first place youve gone, and that if they can get you this close, once of them will go full 20, and I promise, you will get it...

Getting them to offer information like their retail, or shop costs, is all bogus.. They will just lie to you... And dont tell them what you want to pay a month, because they will just adjust it on your interest rate.. When it comes to warranty, turn them down, they will just mark it down for you.

Good luck and dont let them push you around, because they will. Mine was stickered at 37700, and I walked out at 30,160 before tax title and license... Because 20% is a good chunk, there were other things they left on like cost of door protection, wheel locks, and mud flaps..
 
#10 ·
Another tactic - look for the lowest advertised price at the local dealerships.

For example, I'm looking at Accents, mainly, but ...

Cars.com typically has them for $17,500 - which is just the MSRP.

My local dealer on their website shows them for -2276 off, or $15,224 - give or take.

But a dealer about 50-miles away has them advertised for $4,188 off or $13,312 (The same exact car that they show on cars.com for $17,500).

Now, if you look on Hyundai.com, there is a $1500 rebate on Accents and $500 owner loyalty cash.

I assume that is in some of the prices above, and I don't qualify for the loyalty cash.

So in reality, I expect the 50-mile away one to be around $13,800, and then probably $500-800 in doc fees, so around $14,500 plus tax and title.

Could I get the local dealer to match that? Probably.

Could I get the 50-mile away dealer down to $13,300 without doc fees - probably NOT.

I kinda hate the games, but no-haggle doesn't work well for me either. I can easily pay $17,500 for an Accent with no argument.

As Rich said - the deal is as good as you think it is. I'm okay with $14,500 or even a bit higher - but I'll usually be wondering if maybe I could have gotten down to $14,000 if I were more persistent and usually not worrying that the dealer lost money selling me the car for that.

Just remember that you want to be Leonard and not Sheldon:
 
#12 ·
I just started the shopping process for my wife's next car. She wants the 2.0T Ultimate in Mineral Gray. We walked out off the first dealership today when they told me I could get the price I wanted with the standard finance rate or I could have the .9% hyundai financing at higher price. They wouldn't do the lower price at .9%. I've moved on to other dealers via the internet and won't visit another dealer until I have an offer I like in writing. I'm basing my pricing off area dealer's special prices and what Truecar shows, but I'm not using Truecar.
 
#13 ·
I wouldn't use Truecar - and there are a couple of things to watch with TC.

Let's say TC gives you an estimate of $36,544.

You used to be able to click after that and see the dealer pricing - and only one dealer would have that price and they would charge an $800 doc fee, so you end up at $37,300 or so.

Now, you can't see the actual dealer price until you get the certificates - which means a lot of spam and phone calls if you aren't actively in the market.

And TC is the price that the dealers agree to sell the car for - i.e. you can likely do better than that - so I would probably shoot for $36,300-$36,750 based off of Truecar.

You can usually get better than TC, but it saves you a lot of negotiation - i.e. the MSRP is $39,544 - without TC, you wouldn't really know if $38,000 was about the best you could do or if you negotiated for $35,000 if you could have maybe gotten it for $33,000 with a bit more effort.
 
#15 ·
Well-written article on TrueCar (but a bit outdated as you can't see the dealer-pricing screen anymore).

As the article mentions, the dealer won't provide a no-haggle price unless they are still making a healthy profit - which means you can likely do better ...

So in the case above, you shouldn't pay more than the TC price of $36,544, but you might do a lot better.

And - not mentioned in the article - TC let's you select all the options, but the fine print says the price only applies to what is in dealer stock -

So you put in exactly the options you want and the price changes as you add or subtract options and then only 1 of the 3 dealers will match that price, and he doesn't have anything in the color you want so he has to do a stock swap and won't price match for that.

OTOH - if you find a car you like, you should be able to at least get the TC price at most dealers.
 
#16 ·
We looked around a bit to find which vehicle and options we wanted. We weren't in a hurry. It ended up being a 2017 SFS 2.0T with the Premium Package. Then the color... We drove a 2.4 early on, later a 2.0T. All the while we were looking at True Car, Edmunds, and internet searches for % dealer hold back, dealer costs, incentives, rates, etc. One of the dealers we had visited found the vehicle and received it in a trade with another dealer. We looked it over and did a test drive. Everything looked good. We got the 0.9% financing in the 'negotiation', actually it was more of a low (no) pressure price discussion. We are on the left side of the True Car 'What People Paid' curve and are happy with the deal. There was no trade involved. Down the road we want to get a set of wheel locks and winter floor mats. I'll search the internet for prices and availability.

Remember... there are usually three, separate, transactions:

1) cost for the car
2) cost for the financing
3) the trade in

Each one needs to be negotiated.

As a side note - Back in 2010 we bought a new Santa Fe from a local dealer. We visited them when we were first looking at SUVs. Why not give them a shot at our business again... Every new vehicle on the lot had Low Jack installed, every vehicle. Nope, not paying for that... Later I saw that Blue Link (?) has a theft recovery feature (function?). I'm not sure I want to pay for it either, but it is my (her) choice...

Good luck, Happy Shopping!
 
#19 ·
Some other lessons learned ...

TrueCar is pretty much all or nothing - i.e. you can use TrueCar and get the price from the dealer. You can then negotiate and try to get that price or better than that price, but you can't do both.

For example, my price through True car was around $14,500. I think I could have negotiated hard and maybe gotten $14,200 or so, but I would have not wanted to mention TrueCar to do that - and maybe not then, TC includes the $600 doc fee, so the actual price would have been around $13,900. (But you can't walk in and say "I contacted you through TrueCar and they said $14,500, but I want to pay $300 less than that."

Truecar gives you prices from three dealers - it almost always makes sense to take the lowest TrueCar estimate, unless there is some outside reason not to (lowest price is 75 miles away, Dealer B is $100 more but has lifetime oil changes, etc.).

But you don't always get the SAME three dealers - for example, I got quotes from three dealers. Then I went into the dealer and they needed the certificates, so they had me do a new request - which had one of the previous dealers (not them) and two new ones. If I had requested certificates twice before-hand, I would have had 5 dealers to choose from (wouldn't have changed my deal or choice, but ...)

You have to somewhat play with the options a bit ...

When I went into TrueCar, I requested the popular package with floor mats - which was around $14,450 on TrueCar. The car I actually got was around $14,700, but had $220 in options - floor mats, cargo tray, cargo net, and rear seat cupholders. Hint - either find a car on the lot and jot down the options, or many dealers will have a copy of the window sticker uploaded. Put those options in TrueCar and you will be closer to the final price.

Finally - I learned a bit from a co-worker's experience. The dealer I went with had the lowest price on TrueCar, but was about $1000 higher than the TrueCar price on their own website. Another dealer was around $300 higher than the TrueCar price on the dealer's website and $600 less than the dealer I went with. However - when I looked at the cars on the dealers lot, most of them had window tint, most of them had paint sealant, most of them had pin-striping, most of them had N2 tires, most of them had lock lugs on the hubcaps. There wasn't an additional sticker for those items. What that usually means is they will price the car $1000 more than the advertised price, and with work, you can buy it for the price they initially said. If you want window tint, etc, it isn't a bad idea, but otherwise it can be.
 
#20 ·
I just pulled the trigger on a 2017 SFS 2.4L with popular package, very few add ons (mats and cargo net); got 13% off of MSRP before TT&T. Paid a little more in taxes than previous cars where discount didn't include a rebate amount (2k) that I did have to pay taxes on.

I'm happy with it for this time of year and seeing that one of the major competitors (Rav4 XLE) just got labeled "Poor" for front passenger protection. I'm not sure there would be excess inventory in 3/4 months to think I'd get a better deal closer to YE.

Just wanted to report back in case info useful for anyone else. Good luck.
 
#21 ·
Probably a better choice than the RAV4 - Toyota sells a lot of those but it doesn't seem to be that great of a CUV, but the Toyota name still holds value for many.
 
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