To take a way a little bit of the FUD in this topic: Turbo cars have been around for decades and are still used a lot. Actually BMW started to use more and more turbos in their cars and they always religiously followed the NA line.
VolksWagen uses turbos (famous 1.8T in like a dozen of models) . Nissan uses turbos (think the Skyline-series). Subaru uses turbos (Impreza WRX). Mitsubishi uses turbos (Lancer, Pajero). Saab used turbos (remember the famous 900 Turbo but also any 93 and 95 model). Now Ford uses a wide-range of turbos (EcoBoost engines).
And then ; probably near 95% of all diesel-powered new cars sold worldwide have a turbo. Yes. Nearly everyone of them. While you can't compare petrol- and diesel-engine-turbos one-on-one, that still is a lot of turbos being used and manufactured and running in cars. And diesels are known for their longevity, right.
The turbo in the SFS 2.0T is from Mitsubishi, type TD04 (don't know the subtype). This turbo has been used for many years in many different cars, also other than Mitsubishis. The most famous application might be in the Mitsubshi Lancer (EVO) which has been the top-AWD rally-car for years. Those cars were driven often hard. Way harder than 'we' do in the SFS 2.0T. I doubt anyone has driven his 2.0T for more than 60 seconds at top peak power in the entire lifetime of the car. Simply because the SFS is not a race-car and you hardly can push the car that hard with the automatic ; it will shift to a higher gear if you hang around peak RPM+Torque too long, even if you set it to manual.
Turbo issues in the past are mostly due to lack of cooling for the turbo after a hard-drive. The oil cools the bearings of the turbo since those get very hot. Due to the exhaust fumes and friction. If the oil-lines to the turbo are very thin they also get very hot. When using mineral oil the walls of the oil-lines to the turbo might get clogged with cooked oil. Think of your frying pan after frying too long or the grill after a BBQ. As a result less oil can reach the turbo, increasing the temperature of the bearings which then can wear out much faster. Using a synthetic oil will help since that oil will cook less fast than mineral oil and won't stick that fast to the walls of the thin oil-lines (called coke), resulting in a more stable flow of cooling oil to the area around the bearings.
(Btw some turbos are watercooled but if IIRC the TD04 is oil-cooled)
The biggest problem with high powered turbo-charged cars was that people would drive them hard for a while and then come home, doing some burnout just around the corner to impress the kids of the neighbours (or to scare them) and then immediately turn the engine off. That was killing turbos ; the oil would cook, become coke, reduce the flow of oil to the turbo. The next time the turbo would get hotter and hotter until parts decide to stop working (well) or worse. You won't notice directly but over time there would be more friction in the turbo thus resulting in lower RPM (of the turbo) from the same amount of exhaust fumes and thus less fresh air sucked in the engine, resulting in less power. It's like covering the intake of your hairdryer a bit, it will blow less air but the device will become hotter since there is less cool intake air to cool it. If you ignore such a situation too long the turbo could totally break. But those occasions are rare, so far I didn't read a lot of them between the million of car-sales every year for the last decades.
In short ; a synthetic oil helps a bit, even though a normal mineral oil also works well. It's the temperature of oil that is an issue, not viscosity. When oil is cold the rest of your car is cold as well. Turbos don't change temperature from 50 degrees to 1000 degrees in a second. Don't drive your car hard when the engine is cold. A very simple advice, I doubt anyone does that. At least let your oil warm up before you start to redline your engine. After a drive ; if in doubt, let your car idle for another 10-30 seconds after a hard drive. That is not a bad advice with or without turbo, it is good to let an engine cool down a bit and distribute some cooler oil through all parts of the engine. It takes time before heat will be gone from a big chunk of metal. While you don't need to cool your engine or turbo with ice-cubes (lol) the 30 seconds of idling can cool down the turbo well enough to increase it's longevity.
Other facts ; a turbo isn't a magical expensive device. It can be rebuilt for a few hundred dollars. Lets exagerate and make it 1000$. If you drive 50.000 miles and pay 1000$ every cycle for a new/rebuilt turbo you are spending 2 cents per mile to drive your fun turbo. It is unrealistic that every 2.0T needs a rebuild after 50.000 miles since we all have a very big warranty on the car. So even Hyundai does not think there will be a LOT of problems.
Preventive maintenance is even cheaper. If only bearings and such have to be replaced you're talking about less than a few 100s of materials and perhaps another few hundred for labour. The fact that the turbo is integrated with the exhaust manifold might complicate facts ; perhaps a mechanic that has worked on the turbo of the 2.0T can elaborate a bit.
Anyways I'd worry more about the cylinder misfire thingy that keeps popping up combined with the cracked porcelain of the sparkplugs. Those messages keep showing up and if something goes wrong a head has to be lifted to check for damage and other stuff.
Also the intake valves getting dirty from carbon built-up because of the way of redirecting blow-by (air mixed with oil) from the crankcase back into the intake manifold is also not funny to read about. That is something for another topic, but I mention it to show the risk of a turbo-issue versus valve-issues in general, with both the 2.4 NA and the 2.0T engine.
The problem could be solved with an oil-catch-can but that seems to be in violation of the Federal Emissions law because well .. you're not burning the dirty oil but catching it and you have to empty that can and that often goes well in the garbage can (unless you bring it to a place that will recycle old oil).
How bad is carbon build-up on valves ? Have a look :
https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=gdi+carbon+build+up&FORM=HDRSC2
If valves don't close properly (in any car) you will have less effective combustion (if at all) thus less power, worse mileage and worse. The risk of excessive carbon-build-up for GDI engines is 100%. That is one-hundred-percent. Not just a Hyundai problem, also Mazda, BMW, VW and audi. Follow the search, check the brands.
To 'fix' that carbon-build-up we need to clean the intake-manifold and the top of the valves. Not easy. Takes a lot of time. A specialist will charge quite some hours. Read more on the Sonata YF turbo subforum who have nearly the same engine, but a couple of years longer ;
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/sonata-yf-turbo/134548-gdi-carbon-buildup.html