Does anyone have any experience towing a travel trailer with their LWB? We want to get into the RV lifestyle with our toddler son and twin infant girls. I've done some research and asked on another forum, and it seems that unless the TV is a big truck, people say you have no business towing anything bigger than a popup. I am looking at models with GVWR under 4,000lbs, but was told the 3.3l can't handle the frontal area of a full size trailer, and that any inclement weather will blow the SF around too bad. I see people all the time towing with sport tracs and tacoma's, and would think a properly equipped SF would do as well.
Well, I have read the same statements, but I plan to do exactly as you do. I went with the LWB for the exact same reason, I want to get a small trailer.
I plan to go with a 17'-18' hybrid like the Jayco X17Z or the Rockwood Roo. Dry weight is 2500-2800 lbs with GVWR around 3500. I will be using a weight-distributed hitch setup with sway control. Most importantly, I will take it easy and not try to win any races.
While I agree that the frontal area will create drag, I expect that the breathing room between the rated 5000 lbs tow capacity and the 3500 lb GVWR will make for a reasonable towing experience.
FYI, the factory tow wiring does not provide any connectivity for a trailer brake controller. You will need to add that.
I have to agree that the SF especially the DM has no business towing larger travel trailers. If you are going to do it then as said make sure you have trailer brakes, weight distribution hitch and sway control.
I have read the other threads, mentioned above. I have already installed the curt hitch, and have bought the etrailer 4-7 pin kit for a brake controller. The TT i was looking at is the Salem Cruise Lite 195BH which has a dry weight of 3,000 and GVWR of about 3,800. I am also looking at teardrop trailers like the rpod. Those look like they have less air resistance. I also found a popup that would work, but is just as heavy as the cruise lite.
Hitch weight is showing as 403 lbs which will require class 3 hitch. Also with that kind of tongue weight the SF will have very bad sag. This is why weight distribution hitch is a must.
I am now looking at the R-Pods, specifically the RP-176T. It has a more modest 278lb hitch weight. I am also looking at the Rockwood HW276 popup with similar weights. I have the curt class III hitch already installed. I'm also hoping that there will be a bag kit for my SF eventually.
I have been contemplating the bag kit for my SF (Firestone makes one for the CM) My pop up is 1600 lbs with a tongue weight of 220lbs and i get slight sag (2")
So what is a GVWR that the Santa Fe LWB safely pull then? It's rated for 5000lbs no? So to list that as a rating, would there not have to be some sort of 'safety factor' built in there (ie. the car can actually tow 6000lbs, but the manufacturer lists 5000lbs). I thought that if I looked for a trailer with around a 3500-3750 GVWR that I would be able to pull it quite easily (with brake controller and the proper hitch)
My understanding is that the 5,000 tow rating and 500 hitch rating assumes a 150lb driver, no passengers, and no cargo. The rating will decrease with these added.
that's my theory as well. NO mid sized SUV, NOT being full sized, wouldn't tow over 3500lbs. ever. 3K to me seems about right as well.
The suspension and brakes are not designed for that much weight but am sure if you add air ride suspension and trailering brakes it will work just not to my liking is all. The V6 has plenty of pep though just not brakes/suspension as stock.
I have also been reading up that some LWB owners of 2013 and 2014 models have very little suspension travel bottoming out if having 3rd row passengers or heavier cargo in back while towing say 2000lbs. on up.
In Alberta, anything over 910kg (2000lbs) requires the trailer to have brakes and a brake controller or if the trailer weighs more than 50% of the vehicles GVW.
Why would you tow anything larger than a tent trailer without brake controller, sway bars and weight distribution hitch anyway (plus airbags would be nice)?
4 wheel discs, 290HP, 252Ft.lbs of torque...I don't think anyone would say it can pull the full 5000lb rating, but 70-75% of that should be fine.
Will be interesting to hear as others share their experiences. I don't have a hitch installed yet, but we're looking at getting set up soon.
Pare_John - But WHY do you feel the Long Santa Fe shouldn't be towing anything over 3,000 pounds?
I would like to know why towing with this car would be bad or dangerous, etc. I don't get it. It's rated to 5,000 pounds so why would that rating be moot or should be ignored.
If it's rated at 5000 lb, it'll tow 5000 lb - it's a cultural thing to suggest that vehicles in North America can't tow as much as their identical siblings in the rest of the world.
I have a CM Santa Fe SWB (Veracruz being the LWB version) - it's towing limit is 2000 kg (4409 lb) and I'd have no qualms about towing that although my chosen caravan (travel trailer) is only 1500 kg (3307 lb) gross weight.
Outside USA and Canada, the weight of trailers towed by cars and SUVs is much higher - it's a cultural thing with no engineering reason for the low towing weights in North America.
Towing stability is all about weight proportions and balance - in Europe, a travel trailer's gross weight should never exceed the towcar's kerbweight and will always have automatic overrun brakes.
The problem is that North American travel trailer manufacturers assume they're all towed by trucks so make no attempt to reduce weight and it's too expensive to import lightweight European ones.
If you can find a travel trailer that's adequate for your needs, within Hyundai US's towing limit for your Santa Fe XL then go for it - the SWB Santa Fe's make great towcars and I'd expect no less from the LWB.
Ruperts Trooper - Thanks. I'm planning to get my first trailer (caravan) and am finding this tow stuff so confusing! I currently have the 2009/2010 Santa Fe Ltd USA which is rated to 3500. I'm trying hard to love the new LWB Santy but am finding the interior cargo 'smaller' than mine which is so depressing. I initially wanted to get a minivan but they only are rated 3600 pounds towing so since the new Santy will tow 5000 - I really wanted to love it. My targeted trailer is 2880 dry and I expect no more than 3100 loaded up. Oh and you are lucky you can get those stunning caravans there. There's so many I'd love to import. I'm so disappointed with US mfrs it's crazy.
If you are going to tow with a smaller vehicle like the SF then just make sure you have good trailer brakes and an anti-sway. As well i would but a bigger tranny cooler. Another important thing when towing larger loads and frequently is maintenance. Fore frequent oil changes and transmission fluid changes.
The Santa Fe is tougher than Hyundai USA or Hyundai Canada think!
In Europe, I presume everywhere except North America, normal service interval of 20,000 miles (30,000 km) applies unless towing more than 80% of maximum towing weight (80% of 2000kg = 1600kg/3527lb) for more than 33% of total mileage - if severe conditions, as defined, then service interval is 12,500 miles.
All automatic Santa Fe's in Europe have "trailer preparation package" as standard so include a transmission cooler loop in the "bottom" tank of the engine coolant radiator, no other transmission cooler being necessary. Transmission fluid recommended change interval remains the same for severe conditions as normal but as it's a very high 160,000 miles it's prudent to change earlier.
Santa Fe is popular for towing caravans (travel trailers) in UK and doesn't cause any particular reliability issues.
I am sorry to say but you put way too much confidence in Hyundai and what they are telling you. I find it outrageous that any manufacturer would say that you can go 20K miles before service. I also am amazed that people would follow this service schedule.
Remember that a car manufacturer looks for ways to sell cars. One way they do this is by keeping service costs down (this is a selling point). What they don't tell you is that the car will only last you until the warranty runs out. I would much rather spend an extra $100 a year on oil changes and have my car last 4 times as long as someone who does not.
As for the transmission cooler that is on the SF, it is a joke, that is not a true cooler. If you are going to be towing larger loads I suggest installing a proper high volume cooler. Also I would be changing out my tranny fluid every 30K if towing heavier weights on a consistent basis.
20,000 mile servicing is about the norm in my part of the world, across all manufacturers. The evidence is that we don't get "premature" wear so long OCI using high specification oil isn't causing any untoward issues.
Who benefits in North America from low OCI and low towing weights? Oil companies, auto workshops and car manufacturers - selling more oil, more hours and bigger cars/trucks.
Who pays in North America for low OCI and low towing weights? The consumer, of course.
Who benefits in North America from low OCI and low towing weights? Oil companies, auto workshops and car manufacturers - selling more oil, more hours and bigger cars/trucks.
who benefits in europe from high OCI's?
car makers by tricking consumers into thinking that "this car wont cost you as much in maintenance".
workshops having to install new piston rings, shims, bearings, etc.
in my years of working on cars & engines, i can tell you that one size does not fit all. oil change intervals shouldn't be one number for everyone, every car, every region. OCI's depend on many factors:
I am sorry but I would never go that far on oil. More frequent oil changes and lower tow weights can only benefit a car. If 3 oil changes a year breaks a person's bank then they have no business owning a car.
I would also like to see this evidence that you are talking about? I have been working on cars all my life and have seen what oil filters have looked like after just 5K. I can only imagine how much guck is in yours after 20K.
Also imagine people who do short trips and hardly get their engines to operating temps. the amount of moisture in that oil after 20K will be pitting bearing like nothing.
The "evidence" is that there's no evidence of premature failure or problems in regions where long OCI are normal. The only engine I've ever had to have rebuilt was an '80s GM unit with short OCI. Engine remanufacturers exist now only for competition or track-day engines, there's no market for ordinary consumers to need engines rebuilt.
There's also no evidence that towing caravans (travel trailers) leads to premature failure or problems when long OCI are normal.
The qualifier is that a very tight specification of full synthetic oil is needed to use long OCI, not that lower specification oil could be used in Europe on modern cars for shorter OCI anyway.
How many miles are being put on these vehicles before they are taken out of service?
The qualifier is that a very tight specification of full synthetic oil is needed to use long OCI, not that lower specification oil could be used in Europe on modern cars for shorter OCI anyway.
I guess it's just a fundamental cultural difference between North Americans and everyone else.
Regardless of whether it's nominally a US brand, eg Ford, GM (Opel/Vauxhall), nominally a European brand, eg VAG, Mercedes or nominally an Asian brand, eg Honda, Hyundai then the service interval, OCI and towing limit varies considerably depending solely on where the vehicle is sold.
I don't believe for one minute that engines destined for North American sale are built any differently from those destined for sale elsewhere nor do I believe that there's any issues sourcing the same oil and filters for any market.
To keep this thread on DM Santa Fe LWB with travel trailers - I just wish Hyundai would build the LWB in rhd form and sell it in Europe with the 3.0 V6 turbo-diesel S-series engine from the Veracruz - I could easily be tempted to buy one and buy/tow a 4629 lb Airstream Overview - Airstream & Company - and still only need servicing every 20,000 miles or 2 years.
I just wish Hyundai would build the LWB in rhd form and sell it in Europe with the 3.0 V6 turbo-diesel S-series engine from the Veracruz - I could easily be tempted to buy one and buy/tow a 4629 lb
Keep in mind that there are other imp[important factors that need to be taken into consideration when towing besides engine strength. The key one is transmission and transmission cooling. Other important factors are the cooling system and braking system (however decent trailer brakes will help a lot). Suspension as well as a big role to play in towing.
The way the new SF is set up i would be very hesitant to tow anything over 3000 lbs.
In Europe, a 3,000 lb travel trailer (1360 kg Caravan) would probably be towed by a Sonata (i40) or 4wd Tucson (iX35) - with the bonus that such a lightweight outfit would fall inside the restrictive 3500 kg limit placed on new drivers who haven't passed a towing test.
Has anyone seen actual specs for the oem hitch, part number 013B8-86600? The Santa Fe owner's manual specifies the expected 5000 pounds capacity with a 500 lb tongue weight. It does not say if it is compatible with WD systems. Dealer was little help and I have an open ticket with Hyundai Canada.
I am not looking to exceed the 5000/500 just want to buy an all in one units with sway control and am not certain that the rotational force on the hitch is acceptable.
Interestingly, the Curt hitch does specify wd compatibility and it looks identical and is mounted with the identical 4 bolts on each side.
I suspect I will be just fine with a light duty WD system, but would like to has something definitive to go on.
Just heard back from Hyundai Canada and the definitive answer is yes, a weight distribution hitch is fine as long as the 5000/500 capacities are not exceeded.
Has anyone seen actual specs for the oem hitch, part number 013B8-86600? The Santa Fe owner's manual specifies the expected 5000 pounds capacity with a 500 lb tongue weight. It does not say if it is compatible with WD systems. Dealer was little help and I have an open ticket with Hyundai Canada.
I am not looking to exceed the 5000/500 just want to buy an all in one units with sway control and am not certain that the rotational force on the hitch is acceptable.
Interestingly, the Curt hitch does specify wd compatibility and it looks identical and is mounted with the identical 4 bolts on each side.
I suspect I will be just fine with a light duty WD system, but would like to has something definitive to go on.
Sold as 5000 lb towing, yet no place did it state Brake controller MUST BE INSTALLED in all their ads. No listing how to hook it up in the manual nor in the dealers shop. Talked to the dealer, they have not done any yet, and they said that it is an after market item as Hyundai does not supply them. Also, no description on "HOW TO INSTALL" so they said they would guess one hour ($140) or two ($280) to install. I did the hitch and 4 pin, very easy and straight forward, works great.
Many "towing auto" have the "plug" already wired so you just have to plug the controller into it. Seems you have to connect to battery and also have to run a wire from the Engine to both the controller and then to the hitch (7 pin). Seems Hyundai thinks any trailer that takes a 4 pin would need the brake controller so they do not wire it as part of their "TOWING READY PACKAGE" that they sell.
Buyer beware! First time I have been disappointed in Hyundai, still think my Hybrid is the best!
Yet I am now retinking being a full Family Hyundai owners. I get great gas milage (70% hwy/30% street) on all the (now three) 2011 Hyundai autos so that is great! Hybrid (low 40's HWY, low 30's in town, avg 35), 2012 Elantra (low 40's HWY, high 20's in town, avg 30), and the new 2013 Santa Fe LWB (low 30's HWY, mid 20's in town, avg 25).
Thought I would check back and report on my first camping weekend with my new to us trailer.
I bought a 19.5' Antigua Hybrid trailer with a dry weight of 3100lbs and a tongue weight of about 340 lbs.. It has a tandem axle. The purchase included an Equil-i-zer hitch system. Once setup properly, the SF is down about an inch in the back and about 3/4" at the front axle.
Went to a provincial park about 150 kms away and it stayed right behind me with absolutely no sway. Plenty of power to pull and never searching for gears.
Overall, I am very pleased with the towing capabilities.
Thought I would check back and report on my first camping weekend with my new to us trailer.
I bought a 19.5' Antigua Hybrid trailer with a dry weight of 3100lbs and a tongue weight of about 340 lbs.. It has a tandem axle. The purchase included an Equil-i-zer hitch system. Once setup properly, the SF is down about an inch in the back and about 3/4" at the front axle.
Went to a provincial park about 150 kms away and it stayed right behind me with absolutely no sway. Plenty of power to pull and never searching for gears.
Overall, I am very pleased with the towing capabilities.
That is impressive! I am thinking I may get one of those trailers in the future.
Did you by any chance note the fuel efficiency (mpg or Km/L etc...) in that towing?
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