I noticed it as well, but it seems to drop down pretty quickly. I assume the engineers factored in engine wear.

I lived next to some awful neighbors once that took to heating a car up by revving it very high on cold cold mornings for a good minute or so. I can't imagine what that did to the poor engines.

 

QUOTE (RT Pilot @ Nov 27 2008, 04:54 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=203808

I've noticed that when I start our new 2008 Santa Fe 3.3L, I notice that the engine RPM goes to about 2000 for a few seconds and then starts decreasing. This only happens when the engine is cold. . .when it's warm, it starts and idles at around 800-1000 RPMs. It seems that 2000 RPMs is excessively high, especially with a cold engine (I'm thinking of increased engine wear due to lack of lubrication right after start). Does anyone else notice this?

I've noticed the same thing. It's probably set up that way to enrich the fuel mixture sufficiently to ensure proper starting in truly cold weather; -40 Celsius does come along from time to time in Alberta. The recommended oil for all seasons is 5W20 to ensure proper flow of oil with less risk of engine wear at start-up,especially in -40 Celsius. I'll be interested to see if the engine revs to 2000 RPM at start-up in extremely cold weather as this will be my first winter with the Santa Fe.

 

Let us know how it starts in Alberta this winter :grin: -40. . .geesh! I lived in Maine most of my life so I've seen some cold winters too. I now live in the comparatively tropical central PA. Anyway, I too have a neighbor that likes to start his cold motorcycle (with loud pipes) and immediately rev it. It don't matter, he won't keep it long enough to realize the damage anyway. . .

Coming from an aviation background, I'm sensitive to how engines operate and I'm familiar with practices that can affect longevity. I'd never start an aircraft (recip) engine and immediately run it to 2000 RPMs. I also understand that our Hyundai engines are very different than my Lycomings. This is the first vehicle I've ever owned that spec'd 5W-20 weight oil, and that very well may make the difference (the airplane uses 20W50).

Anyway, I'm not gonna worry about it. . .I basically wanted to see if it was isolated to MY Santa Fe or not. . . .and it appears that they all do that. So far I'm pretty impressed with the design put into these vehicles (my first Hyundai). I came from a 99 Chev Venture that we bought new--this was a very good vehicle and gave us no problems--I'm hopeful that the Hyundai will be as good.

 

If this helps.. when we bought a new 2002 Civic (still have it) it was one of the few cars on the road at the time that took 5w20.. talk about $$$ oil changes then. Anyway.. it's been thru some cold winter mornings and the 5/20 has done just fine. 170,000kms on the motor now.

 

I've noticed this on all the cars I've have had.

 

This is normal. My Santa Fe does the same thing, and so did previous Nissans and Hondas that I have owned.

It has something to do with pressurizing the oil system, heating the catalytic converter, aligning the moons of Jupiter, or something like that...

 

Normal operation as stated. My Santy only gets to about 1600-1700 in the cold, but I live in Texas.

As an aside, this is another oportunity to discuss using 5W-20 oil. Another benefit of this excellent oil is improved protection at start up due to its superior cold weather pumpability.
Doesn't seem to matter what brand. Any 5W-20 SM rated oil is up to the task. I use Motorcraft semi-synthetic 5W-20 because of the price and good used oil analysis numbers posted on www.bobistheoilguy.com

 

I also frequent Bobistheoilguy. . . .neat website. I've got 4 free oil changes coming to me from the dealer and the sales rep told me they use Quaker State oil--I'm assuming they'd put in the 5w-20, but I'll ask when I take it in. Today while at WalMart I looked for QS 5w-20 and they didn't have any--they did have the Pennzoil 5w-20 in 5 qt. jugs for $12.00. . .that's probably what I'll use after I finish off the free oil changes. I picked up one of the 5 quart jugs and shook it and it seemed to have the viscosity of water. . .maybe with a little mud mixed in :grin: Like I said, this will be the first vehicle I've owned that used oil that light. . . .I'm hoping it'll pay off with good gas mileage after the break-in period. Right now, my wife gets around 21.8 (according to the computer) with a 50 / 50 mix of highway and city driving. Even at that I ain't complaining, given the time of the year and all.

My wife drives our Santa Fe mostly. . .this is the first vehicle we've ever bought that she has been excited about driving; she never has been that impressed by bells and whistles, but she seems to have embraced most of the features of the Santa Fe--she really likes it and the ergonomics fit her precisely. We test drove several similar SUV / crossovers and she was really lukewarm about all but this one. The value, warranty and safety features got my attention.

Anyway. . thanks for the replies. . .as this is my first Hyundai, I'm sure I'll have other questions. . .

RT Pilot







QUOTE (Pezman1 @ Nov 30 2008, 12:49 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=204091

Normal operation as stated. My Santy only gets to about 1600-1700 in the cold, but I live in Texas.

As an aside, this is another oportunity to discuss using 5W-20 oil. Another benefit of this excellent oil is improved protection at start up due to its superior cold weather pumpability.
Doesn't seem to matter what brand. Any 5W-20 SM rated oil is up to the task. I use Motorcraft semi-synthetic 5W-20 because of the price and good used oil analysis numbers posted on www.bobistheoilguy.com

 

5w-20 seems to be obscenely thin when you first encounter it. I remember thinking," This stuff can't possibly be thick enough to do a good job!"

My gas mileage improved a bit after I had put about 4,000 miles on it. Sounds like your mileage isn't too bad right now with the mixed driving of 21.8

We bought our Santy for the same reasons as you: The most stuff for the money, and my wife liked the way it fit her.

enjoy......

 

QUOTE (ekrunaj @ Nov 27 2008, 09:37 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=203828

I've noticed the same thing. It's probably set up that way to enrich the fuel mixture sufficiently to ensure proper starting in truly cold weather; -40 Celsius does come along from time to time in Alberta. The recommended oil for all seasons is 5W20 to ensure proper flow of oil with less risk of engine wear at start-up,especially in -40 Celsius. I'll be interested to see if the engine revs to 2000 RPM at start-up in extremely cold weather as this will be my first winter with the Santa Fe.

I'm finally following up to my post. We experienced a number of -40 Celsius (= -40 Fahrenheit) nights in December but also had one mid-March. The first night of -40, I had not plugged the block heater in, and the Santa Fe was parked outside. It started fine, revved to 2000 RPM, and dropped to a little over 1200 RPM. The only real issue upon trying to drive it was that you could barely move the steering wheel. I guess that the viscosity of the power steering fluid had increased to near-gel. After a kilometer of driving it was no longer an issue.

 

QUOTE (ekrunaj @ Apr 28 2009, 10:09 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=232436

I'm finally following up to my post. We experienced a number of -40 Celsius (= -40 Fahrenheit) nights in December but also had one mid-March. The first night of -40, I had not plugged the block heater in, and the Santa Fe was parked outside. It started fine, revved to 2000 RPM, and dropped to a little over 1200 RPM. The only real issue upon trying to drive it was that you could barely move the steering wheel. I guess that the viscosity of the power steering fluid had increased to near-gel. After a kilometer of driving it was no longer an issue.

Had the exact same issue when I was in North Bay Ontario for a Volleyball tournament in January.. started fine.. couldn't steer the **** thing... LOL

 

QUOTE (RT Pilot @ Nov 27 2008, 07:54 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=203808

I've noticed that when I start our new 2008 Santa Fe 3.3L, I notice that the engine RPM goes to about 2000 for a few seconds and then starts decreasing. This only happens when the engine is cold. . .when it's warm, it starts and idles at around 800-1000 RPMs. It seems that 2000 RPMs is excessively high, especially with a cold engine (I'm thinking of increased engine wear due to lack of lubrication right after start). Does anyone else notice this?

 

For all those wondering about high idle on cold start up, It is totally normal it allows the computer to set it's self as well as getting oil to the top of the engine quicker. The whole process is exactly the same as the old cars that had carbs, incase anyone has forgot or is not old enough to rember, You set the choke by pumping the gas three times and then sarted the engine. Then the engine would run at anywhere from 1500 to 2500 RPM. Once the engine was warm enough it either came down on it's own or you could manually by tapping the gas pedal .

I would also like to thank everyone for allowing me to date myself , I now feel really old !

Thanks Again , Accent sport

 

QUOTE (accent sport @ May 4 2009, 09:47 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=234054

For all those wondering about high idle on cold start up, It is totally normal it allows the computer to set it's self as well as getting oil to the top of the engine quicker. The whole process is exactly the same as the old cars that had carbs, incase anyone has forgot or is not old enough to rember, You set the choke by pumping the gas three times and then sarted the engine. Then the engine would run at anywhere from 1500 to 2500 RPM. Once the engine was warm enough it either came down on it's own or you could manually by tapping the gas pedal .

I would also like to thank everyone for allowing me to date myself , I now feel really old !

Thanks Again , Accent sport

Not old enough, or too old? The automatic chokes of the type you are remembering were thermostatic, and there was a separate air bypass valve (known as the "idle air valve") used to set the idle -- and not to anything approaching 2500rpm -- with the choke plate full closed. The older ones were manually adjusted gadgets, often by a slot head at the base of the carb. Pressing the pedal even once would allow the choke plate to flip closed (if it wasn't already). 1000~1200 was pretty normal. Anything over 1500 called for an adjustment.

Later, these things were controlled by "motors" and some basic electronics. Too smart by half. Thank the EPA for making them more complicated than necessary.

 

The old chokes on carb-infested... uh... I mean carb-equipped old-timers serve exactly the same purpose - to enrich the fuel mixture on cold start ups. Instead of simply metering more fuel per incoming air mass - like on computer-controlled engines these days - the old carbs restrict incoming air by "choking" the air inlet. This reduces the amount of air to be mixed with the same amount of fuel - in effect, richens the mixture.

Thankfully, I am not old enough to have had to suffer with carbs. My first 2 cars were carb-infested, but I was too young & dumb then to work on cars. Later I did mess with carbs on motorcycles, but they were simpler CV (constant velocity) types and 1 carb for each cylinder. Still, you so much as change how the engine breathes (K&N filter or performance exhaust) and you'll have to rejet the carb. What a PITN!

Tuning with computers... now that's more my speed... :thumbsup:

 

QUOTE (accent sport @ May 4 2009, 08:47 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=234054

For all those wondering about high idle on cold start up, It is totally normal it allows the computer to set it's self as well as getting oil to the top of the engine quicker. The whole process is exactly the same as the old cars that had carbs, incase anyone has forgot or is not old enough to rember, You set the choke by pumping the gas three times and then sarted the engine. Then the engine would run at anywhere from 1500 to 2500 RPM. Once the engine was warm enough it either came down on it's own or you could manually by tapping the gas pedal .

I would also like to thank everyone for allowing me to date myself , I now feel really old !

Thanks Again , Accent sport

I think I can top that.

First of all, let me say that my first car, a 1953 Mercury, flat head V8, had a thermostatically spring controlled choke.

That in itself is not unusual, but in order to eliminate this car from vapor locking on hot days or after running for a very long time at highway speeds, I installed a manual choke so that I could flood the carb and cool everything down. If I caught it in time, the car would continue running without stalling.

Some of my later cars had a manual choke as OEM, such as my 49 custom, chopped Merc.

Yah, the good old days. I don't think so. :grin:

David <><

 

Yeah, well I think I can top that... You can see in my signature what my other "toy" is. It has two carbs which must be sync'd to work exactly the same. The choke or "strangler" as the Brits call it, is a knob you pull on the dash which pulls a cable, to operate a balanced teeter-totter arrangement to choke both sides equally. Any mis-allignment and the car coughs and sputters like crazy. To start the car, you have to pull the choke on hard, then ease it off after a couple blocks or a few minutes. If I release it too soon, it will die on accelleration. The first time I start it up in the Spring (it's a warm-weather-only car), I have to open the hood and let the sun shine on the engine awhile to prove to it that it's warm enough outside; otherwise it refuses to start. I credit that to intelligence!

Modern cars rely on computers for their personalities.

 

my first car, a 1953 Mercury, flat head V8, had a thermostatically spring controlled choke.


My first car, a 1980 Pontiac V8, had a Bic-activated choke.

When the car wouldn't start on cool mornings, the procedure was to remove the air filter cover and jam a pen into the carburetor to hold the choke plate partially open while you crank the engine. Next, pull out the pen and listen to the engine roar at about 3,000 rpm (although who knows without a tachometer?). Now pull the column shifter down into drive, and if it's icy prepare for a 600-foot rear wheel burnout (200 feet on gravel). Then, as your first stop sign approaches, calmly bump the column shifter into neutral, and squeeze the brakes gently with your left foot while frantically kicking the gas peddle with your right foot in the hope of disengaging the choke. No luck? Try again after your next 600-foot burnout.

Ah, memories.