WTF 2011 SF 99,000 major sludge with specified maint - Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-15-2017, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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WTF 2011 SF 99,000 major sludge with specified maint

So, this is an extension of my earlier P0014 thread, but with more specific info figured I'd start it over.


Short version: I have a Santa Fe with a major sludge issue, at least if the photos are to be believed. But I've maintained oil well according to schedule, and car has been running nearly flawless whole time. I'm baffled.

So I have a 2011 Santa Fe with 99k miles. Was recently throwing the MIL light on but I thought it was a problem with the gas cap because there was an issue with that. But after replacement of the cap, and the issue persisted, pulled a P0114 took it to dealer realizing warranty was almost up.

After getting the P0014, I walked over to the dealer again today for further follow up. (3rd day in shop). They had previously told me that they were waiting for to Hyundai to get approval for working on the engine. Today, I got the same story, still waiting. So I asked for the manager. (On the prior visit, I had been asked if I had my oil change records, which I knew I had).

He came out and showed me a picture of the engine - a huge sludgy mess. He told me that in fact they had already been contacted by Hyundai, and he had been instructed to put together an invoice for short block rebuild, and submit it to Hyundai corp for approval. I asked why would they do this? Either they are going to deny a claim, or they are not? Why would they need a total first?

He told me he had seen some cases where instead they would offer a credit towards a purchase at Employee Pricing ..... which should be a separate thread, as I know that comes in many versions. (I'll probably start a thread on that issue 'elsewhere)

The whole thing doesn't make sense ---

1) I don't see how the problem exists in the first place. I to change at every 3k, to be on the safer side. What the heck could have caused an issue? Any again, it has run like a champ ... no real noise, no ticking, nada.

2) if Hyundai suspect engines abuse, why would they even bother asking for a total invoice from the dealer first? Only thought I have is they know there might be some other cause... cause otherwise, I would think they would just deny me outright.

3) It looks like I may be missing one record where there is a 6500 mile gap --- I'm going to have to,look hard for that. I'm worried all I may have is a credit card records to cover this, but no invoice.

I'd appreciate any and all advice. I don't want to be accusatory, but something is weird. Bringing up the whole buyout / EPP thing just makes me feel something else is going on.

Last edited by dcbarry; 06-15-2017 at 08:38 PM.
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-15-2017, 09:40 PM
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Hmmmmm,hard to believe that 3000 mile oil changes even with the cheapest oil out there would make for a major sludge issue in 90k miles. Why would the manager come out with pics when your car is there? Why did he not bring you into the shop to show you personally? What oil and filters were you using? Can you take some pics and post them here? Whatever the issue is,I hope it works out in your favor.

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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-16-2017, 12:01 AM Thread Starter
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I admit, that crossed my mind. But it's hard for me to imagine them putting themselves at risk to do something so blatant. On the other hand, I am going to ask to take a look next time I am there.
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-16-2017, 08:45 AM
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A sludgy engine can certainly generate a P0014 easily enough. I expect you're already familiar with the code and its causes.

Would be curious to know more about the kind of life this vehicle has had. 100,000 in 6 years argues reasonably against a constant string of short trips of the sort that don't get the engine warmed up. Does the engine typically come up to about 1/2 temp on the gauge within a fairly short period of time after getting started? Where are you located?

Does the dealer/Hyundai plan to send an oil sample to a lab for analysis? If there's any left to be had, you might want to CYA and do that yourself if possible.
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-16-2017, 09:02 AM
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Something is fishy. It don't add up as previously mentioned. If the drives brought the engine to temp and were long enough this should never occur. I don't see info on the engine!! Is it a 3.5L which knowone has reported this as a problem that I have seen.

I'd want to see the engine in person as well. I have a OCI which is lower than the great majority and had Quakerstate dino (green jug in it) I used it up and at 4000km it looked bad to me. I can't see running oil longer. I am back to the Synthetic now Pennzoil Ultra Synthetic and change at 5k when it comes up. No more than that.

You don't need every document on oil changes. Only that you are doing it.
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-16-2017, 09:33 AM
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This thread, along with the justifiable doubts dcbarry has voiced, bring up a good point. It might not be a bad idea to send off an oil sample for analysis by an independent lab on a regular basis, something like every fourth oil change or every other year, whatever the owner might want to do. If warranty issues come up, the owner could say, "Look, this analysis shows I was doing what I needed to do." It might be expensive in the short run but a wallet saver in the future. Call it insurance.

Anybody have a list of reputable labs they have used?

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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-16-2017, 10:24 AM Thread Starter
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SO, a quick but very important correction: I said the oil changes on this were every 3K...... this is not correct, I was thinking about our 200K + 2006 Sonata, which gets the super frequent changes due to her advanced age. (Her only flaw, wrinkles, scratches, and the stupid air bag sensors, never solved correctly after multiple TSB fixes). The Santa Fe is/was getting her changes averaging 7K. Still, well within the limits.

Changes are mostly Walmart and a local car wash. (along with a few on the road)

Re the temperature.... On a long road trip, about a year ago I did have a cooling issue. There was never sign of obvious leaking, but since it had been a long time since coolant had been serviced, I went ahead and had it flushed. For a while after that, I was topping the coolant but in very small amounts. But I think someone elsewhere said coolant leaks make it "frothy (?) Didn't look like that.


Trip types: A good combo of daily multiple 15 minute in-town trips, along with a good long (hour plus) drives every two weeks or so --- plus two cross country journeys. So a full mix.


Depending on what happens today (he said he was going to get the estimate back to Hyundai last night) , I think I will ask for the opportunity to take my own pictures, and ask for an oil sample.
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-16-2017, 10:42 AM
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Just some thoughts.

What oil was used, dino or high quality synthetic? Was the filter changed every time with a high quality aftermarket or an OEM ? If you take your car to just anybody and say "oil change," you don't know what you could be getting.

7K miles between changes is a little long unless you do a lot of highway driving where the engine gets up to normal operating temperature and stays there long enough to evaporate any moisture. It sounds like you do a lot of short tripping. After the sludge starts to form, a highway trip every other week won't make it disappear.

Many of us here are downright anal about the oil we use, the filter we use, and the interval between changes. Personally, Mobil 1 5W-20 (or similar) oil, an OEM (or similar) filter, and 5K miles are my own rules, but that's just me. Others' opinions may differ.

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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-16-2017, 10:56 AM
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I've done 7500 mile OCI on my Accent for almost the whole life and the top of the head is spotless under the valve cover.

I say either the pictures are phony or the oil used was garbage.

I took my Gen Coupe into the dealer for warranty work. They looked at my aftermarket bumper cover and said "That's not stock, we don't even want to know what's under it". And then looked at my light weight Enkie RPF1s lightweight wheels and said" Those are racing wheels".

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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-16-2017, 10:59 AM
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No signature on details of engine etc nor location!!!!

If thats Miles (7000 miles) that is a lot even for synthetic. Unless you change your own oil you have not ideal how bad it is coming out. Changing at a Car Wash OMG, I never heard of that and certainly a recipe for big problems. Filter changed or not (few places with have the non canaster oil filters on hand that the 3.3 & 3.5L engines use)

I doubt you knew what grade or brand of oil was going in which could have been all wrong for the engine making things worst along with high miles between changes. Owners manual specifies acceptible grades and temperature supported. As DSHORNET says 5w20 is quite safe and in some or many case 5w30 is also quite acceptable which I am running now as a Synthetic package as the heat of summer approaches its protection is better.

I don't go more the 5k in Km even for synthetic knowingly and only if its along trip running 700-1000km in a day which does not contaminate near as much.

I believe your sludge issue are answered by your statement above. I would not mention it to the dealer!!
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