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Santa Fe rear-end thump sound

55K views 33 replies 18 participants last post by  arthurzd3 
#1 ·
I bought a 2012 Santa Fe Sport AWD, about two months ago. Just started getting a thump/sound coming from the rear of the car, when I accelerate from a complete stop. It only starts to make the noise after the vehicle has been driven for a bit and has warmed up. It only does it from a complete stop, at first I thought it might be a caliper hanging up but I came to a stop without using the brakes, then when I accelerated, I heard the thump.
I replaced the differential fluid, with no change. The odd thing is I DO NOT get the thump, if I have the AWD engaged. That sorta puzzles me because if it is the differential, you would think it would make the issue worse. Some other things I have notice it rarely does it on turns and sometimes it worse then other times.
I am leaning towards checking the drive shaft u-joints and checking rear cv-shafts.
Wondering if anyone has had this issues....
Thanks...
 
#5 · (Edited)
For you Santa Fe owners - For a 2011 Santa Fe in which you are replacing a bearing and seal in the coupler. Part Numbers are as follows;

Coupler Seal - National Part #710658, the number on the actual seal 1900-044-041
Bearing is the same as what is in the video - 6008Z replaced with a 60082RSJ

I also had to do my Pinion seal which is a Hyundai Part#5305039100, the number on the actual seal is SM(SB2Y) 50x69x8

Note the bearing has no snap ring and is pressed in the opposite as what is shown in the video for my 2011 Santa Fe. Everything was pretty much the same...great video.
 
#10 ·
I bought a 2012 Santa Fe Sport AWD, about two months ago. Just started getting a thump/sound coming from the rear of the car, when I accelerate from a complete stop. It only starts to make the noise after the vehicle has been driven for a bit and has warmed up. It only does it from a complete stop, at first I thought it might be a caliper hanging up but I came to a stop without using the brakes, then when I accelerated, I heard the thump.
I replaced the differential fluid, with no change. The odd thing is I DO NOT get the thump, if I have the AWD engaged. That sorta puzzles me because if it is the differential, you would think it would make the issue worse. Some other things I have notice it rarely does it on turns and sometimes it worse then other times.
I am leaning towards checking the drive shaft u-joints and checking rear cv-shafts.
Wondering if anyone has had this issues....
Thanks...
 
#11 ·
Mine is doing exactly the same thumping noise, only start after a while of driving on pull off. Difficult to identify what is the cause of it, been to the dealers but they also not sure what is causing it. My commen sence tell me it is the propshaft rubber coupling or dounut as some people call it, but hyundia dealers do not sell that part separate here in South Africa, any help or advice will be appreciated. Thanks guys.
 
#12 ·
Hi, if the rubber coupling is worn out, then the other components in the drive shaft are most likely worn out And throwing everything out of balance. The entire prop-shaft assembly comes with new u-joints, slip-sleeve, cv-joint, center rubber isolation, rubber coupler, bolts and balanced. Rockauto sell the kit for $349 usd. For a complete rebuilt balanced 2-piece prop shaft that price is not Bad, ..compared to local driveshaft shop cost twice that price And dealer price 3x.
 
#13 ·
I have 2010 AWD Santa Fe. I performed the differential and transfer case service with Valvoline synthetic 75-90 wt w/friction modifier. The reduced the vibration from grabby limited slip. The AWD have limited slip so you must use friction moDiffers Without the friction modifier, the limited slip wi over heat, become grabby or permanently lock, causing tire skip and vibration going around corners. This can also cause limited slip disc particles to eat the diff gears. Remember you can use friction modifiers in reg diff. You cannot use reg diff oil in limited slip.
 
#15 ·
I had this same issue and resolved it. The coupler had lost all the oil inside of it. Put a new seal in the rear of the coupler, the correct amount of oil and haven't had any issues since. Been going about a year since the fix. The coupler is supposed to be a non repairable part but with a bit of research I got it done.
 
#17 ·
I have good luck with Valvoline Synthetic MaxLife for Transmission (3x Flush) $18 USD for 4 qt and Valvoline Synthetic SynPower 75-90wt with friction modifiers $13 USD per qt. After 2x transmission flush, the idle shuttle or wobble stopped, and stop light launch became smoother. The 3rd flush cleaned out the valves and made all the shifts smoother. Flushing the rear and front differential with SynPower 75-90wt w/friction modifiers reduced the lurching of the suspension going around corners. The second flush with 75-90wt SynPower made the suspension smoother, especially over bumpy road. It seems the previous owner put standard gear oil (non-synthetic stinky oil) which made the differential lockers LOCK and Unlock causing lurches and clanking noise. After the 3x transmission flush (200-500miles between flushes) and 2x FnR differential flushes, the lurch disappeared. It’s much smoother now. Remember I’m doing this DIY, therefore it’s only the fluid cost EST $200 USD. A mechanic doing these flushes might cost $1000+. I also flushed the power steering fluid with Synthetic using a turkey baster, 3x. This reduced the belt squeeks. Best Regard
 
#19 ·
Flat land cruzing in Eastern Washington USA for 600 miles averaged 32 mpg during this summer months. Going over the Cascade Mountains 7000 ft to Seattle, we got 30 mpg. I use regular gas with Chevron Techron additive every other fill up to keep the filter and injectors clean. (Per Hyundai recommendation).
 
#20 ·
Oil change every 3000 to 4000 miles with synthetic 10-30 wt latest API SP tested oil. The oil is Walmart or Costco oil packaged by Warren Oil Distribution. WOD mix synthetic oil for many high end brands too. The oil compares very well with very high end oil and keep my engine very very clean. Inspection inside the oil cap show no carbon deposit on the engine heads. Please watch Project Farm on YouTube performing modified ASTM n API test with chemical analysis. Walmart and Costco synthetic oil cost $12.50 USD for 5 qts. I use only Hyundai factory or Ford factory oil filter with ASTM and SAE tested markings. These oil filters are 10 micron (0.004 inch) filter and keep everything very clean. Walmart sell the oil filters for $6.00 USD.
 
#22 ·
Valvoline, Penzoil, Mobil 1 are all good oil too. But they cost 2x More. I change my oil frequently therefore the added base to reduce acidification of oil from ethanol is not an issue. I do not recommend going over 5,000 mile per oil change especially if you drive around the neighborhood and put less than 10kmiles per yr. Please use the extreme or sever service, 3,000 to 4,000 mile oil change. If you drive 20K to 30K highway miles then going 5,000 miles before oil change is OK.
 
#25 ·
I bought a 2012 Santa Fe Sport AWD, about two months ago. Just started getting a thump/sound coming from the rear of the car, when I accelerate from a complete stop. It only starts to make the noise after the vehicle has been driven for a bit and has warmed up. It only does it from a complete stop, at first I thought it might be a caliper hanging up but I came to a stop without using the brakes, then when I accelerated, I heard the thump.
I replaced the differential fluid, with no change. The odd thing is I DO NOT get the thump, if I have the AWD engaged. That sorta puzzles me because if it is the differential, you would think it would make the issue worse. Some other things I have notice it rarely does it on turns and sometimes it worse then other times.
I am leaning towards checking the drive shaft u-joints and checking rear cv-shafts.
Wondering if anyone has had this issues....
Thanks...
I just brought my car in 2012 Santa fe xl awd for the EXACT same problem it's been happening for quite a while now. It ended up being rear differential clutch. The mechanic disconnected it so now I have no awd, ABS, AWD and Hill desent lights are lite up on dash but this is temporary until they find parts and hopefully doesn't break the bank they said it could be very costly. With is disconnected there is no danger but the clunking has stopped. You totally described what I've been trying to tell people for months until diagnosed today. Good luck
I also had it in for other issues when turning and some weird grinding a month ago they replaced right front lower control arm/ball joint cv axle shaft
 
#27 ·
I just brought my car in 2012 Santa fe xl awd for the EXACT same problem it's been happening for quite a while now. It ended up being rear differential clutch. The mechanic disconnected it so now I have no awd, ABS, AWD and Hill desent lights are lite up on dash but this is temporary until they find parts and hopefully doesn't break the bank they said it could be very costly. With is disconnected there is no danger but the clunking has stopped. You totally described what I've been trying to tell people for months until diagnosed today. Good luck
I also had it in for other issues when turning and some weird grinding a month ago they replaced right front lower control arm/ball joint cv axle shaft
The coupler runs dry of lube, needs fluid in it, which you need a real mechanic to disassemble it to repair it. A dealer will just replace it. My 2012 just had the engine seize up with the junk 2.4 Theta 2 engine it has, just be glad it's only the coupler.
 
#29 ·
I bought a 2012 Santa Fe Sport AWD, about two months ago. Just started getting a thump/sound coming from the rear of the car, when I accelerate from a complete stop. It only starts to make the noise after the vehicle has been driven for a bit and has warmed up. It only does it from a complete stop, at first I thought it might be a caliper hanging up but I came to a stop without using the brakes, then when I accelerated, I heard the thump.
I replaced the differential fluid, with no change. The odd thing is I DO NOT get the thump, if I have the AWD engaged. That sorta puzzles me because if it is the differential, you would think it would make the issue worse. Some other things I have notice it rarely does it on turns and sometimes it worse then other times.
I am leaning towards checking the drive shaft u-joints and checking rear cv-shafts.
Wondering if anyone has had this issues....
Thanks...
I just bought a 2012 Santa Fe, after a couple of days started to have the same thudding from the back, starting from a stop or when stopping, was the coupler, went back to the place i bought the car and they replaced it free of charge, now runs beautifully smooth (has been months) Knock on wood..
 
#32 ·
If someone is wondering how to disconnect the AWD coupler without the light coming on the dash and flashing, remove the coupler plug and put a small 12V halogen bulb (LED bulb didn't work) attached to some wires and place the wires in the plug.

It tricks the system into thinking the coupler has power and allows the vehicle to operate as FWD without any warning lights.
 
#34 ·
Similar issue. 2015 Santa Fe Sport, accelerated a little too hard from stop sign. Loud bang from under rear end, with immediate thudding upon accelerating and turning coming from same area. Replaced the rear awd coupling ourselves, but still having same issue. Really need some help, pretty lost.
 
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