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Canister close valve issue

8K views 17 replies 3 participants last post by  Tripplec 
#1 ·
Hi. I've had an engine light on for a while and been procrastinating to fix it since it's my wife's car and I'm a mechanic.
Codes p0447 and p0455

I did the last thing and ordered a new ccv. I installed it. Disconnected the battery. Drive it and the light came back on. So I got under the car and tested the wires. Not sure if I did it right. Tested for voltage at the connector using the two wires with key on. No voltage. So I tested for voltage with my own ground and I got voltage at one wire. Tested the other for ground and I had no ground. I followed the harness the best I could and it went on top of the gas tank and I gave up.

Guess I just wanted to know if anyone has wiring diagrams of the ccv that I could look at to further diagnose this and find out where the ground goes. If the pcm controls the ground or the power. I wanted to just make a new ground but it won't work if the pcm controls it.

Thanks.
 
#2 ·
Please supply at least model year for your vehicle in your profile or your post, after which, I will supply you with a wiring diagram.

However, what I can tell you is that the CC valve is going to be powered whenever the engine control relay is enabled, and that it's the ground that is being switched by the PCM. So adding your own ground isn't telling you much except to confirm that the +12 wiring is still intact.
 
#7 ·
You're right. Sorry haven't looked up the p0447 in a while. Are you a Hyundai tech? Have you seen broken wires for this problem before? Possible corrosion at the pcm connector?

Going to try and look at the harness more today.
 
#9 ·
CF211 won't be your problem. You have already identified that you are able to see +12V at the solenoid if you run the other lead to chassis ground, so CF211 is passing the +12 just fine.
Have not previously seen wiring issue 'south' of the valve to control side be an issue, but then again, there's always a first time.
 
#10 ·
Cf211 has both wires though. Could be possible for one pin to be corrded. I live in Canada so corrosion is a big issue. Also wanted to test the wire from the ccv connector to cf211 if I find the wire is open all the way to the pcm connector.
 
#12 · (Edited)
I have a thread on the one code as I had low voltage to the solenoid. Corroded wire in the harness. Photo was posted for P0455 only
Maybe in the same location of the harness as my 12V lead.

Just saying, just in case we're talking about the same thing. I'd never think to look for it if I was not pointed to the harness and peeled the wrapping off and it was obvious at that point.

EDIT

Hard to finds with Search. I scrolled through old posts until I found my old posts.
Here ..... http://www.hyundai-forums.com/cm-2007-2012-santa-fe/369753-code-po455-2007-santa-fe.html
 
#13 ·
thanks. i'll give that a check in a bit when my wife gets home. the connector looks fine just like you said in that thread. really hoping thats my problem as well since its an easy fix.

now i just have to replace the right rear cv shaft ( cracked tone wheel causing abs and traction lights ), right front control arm ( bad ball joint ) and the rear sway bar links and i might not want to trade this thing in anymore. am i the only mechanic that hates fixing his own cars?
 
#14 ·
I did mine in Dec I believe. Pulling the connector off was the hardest part next to getting the tape to peel back close to the plug. The cold does not help but I carefully slit it with a knife to expose the 2 wires.

Good luck!!
 
#15 ·
Really wish I checked this connector before buying a new valve.


It was repaired at some point before I owned this car. Had a bad solder job. I did a temp fix without solder or heat shrink untill I can bring it to work.

Thanks to the both of you for the help.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Wow you got it unplugged without removing the shield!!!

Glad to help on that. Which lead is that. 12V or GRN? Most other case were the 12v. Will help others as well.

PS I soldered a 4-5" piece of 16 or 18 gauge wire I had to stripped back ends then taped it up and tie wrapping it to the support point again.
 
#17 ·
Pretty sure it's the ground since I got 12 v when I grounded the multi meter on the connector that wasn't broken.

As for getting the connector without taking the sheild off, I'm pretty lazy and I just had the sheild off a couple days ago.

I highly recommend getting some heat shrink for those solders. If you just tape it you risk getting corrosion and having a bigger problem.
 
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