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No Oil Filter, Santa Fe 2007

6K views 36 replies 9 participants last post by  Tripplec 
#1 ·
Hi,

My car is a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.2 CRDI.

so ... I made a very dumb mistake while making my oil change half a year ago. I missed the sealing part for the filter, so the oil passed without going trough the filter.

The vehicle had 160.000km when I changed the oil, so way beyond the breaking-in phase. I noticed my mistake at 172.000km, and I changed the filter now.
I definitly know that the oil passed without beeing filtered, because when I changed it first, the oil pressure light didn't light up 3-4sek while the filter is beeing filled. The second time I did it stayed on for 3-4sek at the first start.

I drive my vehcile very gently, no flooring, no high rpm. I used high-quality oil.
The oil looked clean, it was black since its a diesel, but it was definitly not contaminated with anything, when you rubbed the oil between your fingers it was definitly clean.
The car uses about 0.5l of oil in 15.000km, but it has done this since it was new.

So, seriously, on a skale from 0-10, how ****** am Í?

Thanks!
Greetings
 
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#3 ·
Hi Tripplec,

here in Europe we got 15.000km change intervalls. I also think that this is quite long, but considering VW introduced 30.000km intervalls ... Also, here in Europe its a question of money, changing all filters and your oil is about ~100€.

However, I did a lot of "noise" tests, when you leave it in gear and go off the gas pedal you can hear the normal compression sound of a diesel engine, nothing unusual here. In neutral the diesel sound is way too loud to hear a slight knock.

However, I definitly will monitore the oil level. When it did some damage, the piston rings have to be worn, so it has to use more oil, right?

I hope after all that it didn't damage anything, but yeah, guess I won't know for sure
 
#4 ·
If your consumption has not increased, then the amount of damage done is probably very minimal at most. However, this has allowed a bit more crud than normal to find its way into the journals, and you need to keep watching in case there's any build up there that might eventually block things. I'd be more worried about bearings than pistons with this situation.

While your approach to filtering isn't - er - suggested, at least you caught it and weren't one of those who wait to change oil until it's low on the dip stick.
 
#5 ·
Hi canderson,

thanks for your information. I will definitly keep an eye on the oil consumtion.
I changed it every 15.000k, sometimes even bevore the recommended intervall. I really hope that I didn't do any damage ... I guess time will tell.

Thank you!
Greetings
 
#6 · (Edited)
At least you did have oil in it, and flowing all be bypassing the filter primarily.

One oil I use on another type of vehicle its Shell Rotella, They have a fabulous product in that line. T6 Rotella is synthetic and liquid gold. Although its likely too light at 5w40 (as least its what I see on the shelves here). You can call Shell Engineers directly for qualified advice on whats the best for that engine. Some countries may find it in different grades. T5 is not synthetic but diesel rated as I recall. I'd do my next change earlier. Still cheaper than a worn engine repair. Be 200% sure the filter is done properly and meets OEM spec's diesels are great if you service them. Wait to long and they can bite you where you don't want.

I don't know how your oil is sold but big retailer put this stuff on deep sales. Up to 40% off at times. I stock up and have it on hand when I see an acceptable product.
 
#7 ·
No problem what so ever. Most people don't know that not all the oil getting pumped through the engine goes through the filter. There is a bypass valve that opens. They think it only opens when the filter blocks. Wrong it plays a big part when the engine is cold where the oil is thick and under high oil flow so in reality some of the oil gets filtered some doesn't. It's a fine line between filtering and bypassing.
 
#8 ·
I personally have to doubt it opens at other times. Filters are engineered to meet a specific flow spec capability. Opening at other times would allow debris into the engine we are so adamant on keeping clean by filtering. Even a short period could allow a build up in the filter area out back into the engine which may be a concentrated amount of larger particulates.

Low viscosity spec's such as the 5w or even 0W oils flow easy at low temperatures and especially synthetics which flow down to where the vehicle just won't start because its too cold with battery power severely affected.
 
#10 ·
Lots of old cars didn't have any filter and the oils were nowhere as good as today's but they still survived but nowhere as long as they do today. The biggest problem cars have these days is sludge due to less oil capacity and manufacturers recommended oil change intervals. A new filter only gets better as it slowly becomes blocked to the point where very little oil will pass through. If filters were made so good why do they have a bypass valve on every car or filter? Reason to allow for all the times the volume required cannot pass through the filter. Of all the filters on a car I consider the air filter to be the most important.
 
#11 ·
Lots of old cars didn't have any filter and the oils were nowhere as good as today's but they still survived but nowhere as long as they do today.
Yes, that would be back in the day when they were still using strips of leather for rod bearings .. not exactly relevant!

The biggest problem cars have these days is sludge due to less oil capacity and manufacturers recommended oil change intervals.
Sludge buildup isn't often related at all to oil capacity -- which is often as much as it ever was in the 'olden days' at roughly 5+ quarts -- it's much more a function of driving habits and oil change intervals, which ... well, I'd point out that a we show 3,750 miles here in the U.S. If you believe the marketing departments in your particular part of the international market, good luck.

A new filter only gets better as it slowly becomes blocked to the point where very little oil will pass through.
I assume that was an attempt at some sort of sarcasm? No filter gets better with age as it picks up particulates.

If filters were made so good why do they have a bypass valve on every car or filter? Reason to allow for all the times the volume required cannot pass through the filter.
Bypass is a necessary CYA for all instances where the filter can't handle the volume, including the point at which it has so much crud in it due to overdue change that it's essentially blocked. Better passing dirty oil through than no oil at all.
Of all the filters on a car I consider the air filter to be the most important.
Important, yes. But each serves its own special purpose in keeping crap out of the engine, be it oil, air or fuel filter.
 
#13 ·
Well, I too am amazed at the length of European oil changes. I don't drive much anymore but both vehicles go in every 5,000km or 3 months whatever comes first. And it's usually the 3 months. Took my 2002 civic in today for it's change and it only had 2,000km since the last one. it also just rolled 250,000 kms this morning.
For my 08 Santa Fe, I buy OEM filters and my pals shop does the service for $20.00.

That's way cheaper than on going car payments. I also keep my cars forever.. My 89 Integra was sold with almost 400,000 kms, bought my mechanic, my '94 Accord, almost 300,000kms also bought by my mechanic and my Civic, well he wants it, LOL
 
#14 ·
Very good, I guess he does all the repairs so he knows them inside out. They have good engines and changing the oil is key to them running high miles. I don't care what anyone says about it can go 10-12000 because it comes back good in an analysis test. The additives oil companies put in only last so long as well. Contamination build up and up and up, after a point it has to be hard on some parts. Oil filter does not remove contamination.

Well done Pinto--- My son will be looking for another 4x4 soon as his is showing signs as rust is taking its toll.
 
#15 ·
I'm also from europe, intervalls at 15.000 are *really* short here. They recommend oil changes at newer cars at 30.000km.
I've also seen a lot of cars with 300.000km+ on the odometer without having any problems with the 15.000km intervall.

Don't get me wrong, changing oil as often as possible is definitly the best idea, but the other way round: I've not seen any problems with the 15.000km intervall. No sludge, no engine failure, ...
As OP mentioned, oil changes are expensive here in europe. If you do it yourself and buy a decent oil you can get it done for ~70€, but at a shop you can easily spend 200€+.
 
#17 ·
Every time I had an oil test done it came back that the oil was still good to use. .
Yeah, Good for What? It depends...used to use this for oiling a dirt driveway but it tabu now with environmental sniffing soil for contamination. LOL

For that kinda millage you'd ne a PH8 equivalent filter size. Old truck engines had them all BIG filters. Even larger capacities as well.

I'd like to hear what kind of millage many UK or other area driver as using them for. They don't drive our distances so there has to be a lot of start and stop short runs over the oil change. Maybe a radically different oil package additive is also used.
 
#18 ·
canderson you totally misread all of my comment. The oil pan and oil has become a vital part of the cooling system and larger oil capacity means it can do it's job more effectively. With some manufacturers having only 3L of oil they are having major sludging problems. What I see here in Aust is oil sludging and oil consumption being the major problem area with the cars sold here. Just look at a lot of the modern engines with a very small pan directly under the oil pickup to allow access and cleaning. Hm I wonder why their are doing that? My Hyundai came with a nice DVD and they say it's best to change the oil every 7,500kmse not the specified 15,000kms.
 
#19 ·
I could see 7500km max with #1 oil and not a lot of short runs < 6 months of use as well. But not 15,000km. Quaker state used to say on their regular oil it was good for 4000 miles ok with is more in KM but clearly they're not promoting what the car manufactures sometime say you can do. No dealer will put a sticker on their oil change to come back in 15000km either. Typical 5000 Max also for most climates Winter is the hardest on the engine so its important to me to start clean at the beginning and change after to get rid of the badly treated oil.
 
#22 ·
Tripplec I kid you not. They do put a lube sticker with 15,000kms on it then blame the owner when things go wrong. I see so many cars run out of oil these days because the owners are becoming less literate and don't want to lift the bonnet (hood) and if they do they have no idea what their looking at. I come across all sorts of things these days done by owners who should not own a car. I can remember many years ago when almost all motorists had a basic knowledge of what needed to be done and checked. They tinkered with their cars on weekends and mostly succeeded in keeping them running. Like the Euro cars they are starting 30,000km service intervals here and I can assure you it's not proving to save anybody money in the long run. I tell all my customers that an oil change is the cheapest engine insurance you can buy and make them fully aware of the consequences of not looking after it.
 
#23 ·
My own opinion, oil filters are useless appendages like our own appendix. Years ago they were very worthwhile given the manufacturing techniques, quality of oil etc. Today, manufacturing and the oil, filters cannot filter down below 20 microns or so and are pretty much useless in catching anything. Now, we are assuming a well maintained properly operating engine.

So, no damage done, don't lose any sleep over it
 
#24 ·
I agree I need a good oil to beat the heat. I am not quite 3000km but maybe doing another change for the summer.

Is anyone using a higher grade than the specified 5W20 in their 3.3.L engines in the summer. I know the owners manual lists server in their chart. EG 5W30 or the old 10W30 standard of the olden day engines?
 
#26 ·
Thanks, you're close to me and have the same weather systems. I have run 5W30 once and not negative difference on summer. But still wondering as per the heat and when working hard. I do tow short distances as in the hot weekend just past 36C in Belleville. Towed trailer and 2-ATV's for a ride which is < 2000lbs 35 to 40km each way.
 
#31 ·
It all gets down to good quality oil of the right viscosity for your environment and regular servicing. I am favoring synthetic over mineral these days mainly because the price has fallen close to the price of mineral. I have customers that neglect their cars by not regularly servicing them and the synthetic is proving a big plus.
 
#33 ·
@charlescrown
I agree I know synthetic on sale is much cheaper than blended and never saw the reason for it. If you do want that mix it yourself (2L dino and 2L synthetic or whatever) since they can be mixed. Still cheaper but synthetic is also a big plus for winter in starting and summer if really towing long distances etc it handles the heat much better. If I feel the need I'd dump the dino I have and put synthetic if all of a sudden I need to trailer or climb a lot of hills. I just curious if many are using 5w30 for example in any of their situations.
 
#34 ·
Yep just put some in today. I got genuine Hyundai 5W30 Synthetic. $60 for 6 litres. Yes I know all Euro cars have a synthetic spec and also here in Aust nearly all oils specified by oil manufacturers not the car manufacturer specify synthetic. We still have quiet a few old cars on the roads here 20 years plus so I suppose the thought is cheap old car cheap oil. Not worth it in my books.
 
#35 ·
Well we have some old ones but they're either stored for the winter or worked on a lot keeping the salt corrosion away. Suspension and body's get eaten away pretty quick if they're not factory prepared well and get some corrosion spraying in the panels etc. Once the rust is very bad its not longer worth fixing the power train or suspension failures caused by severe corrosion. I saw a chart where some manufacture rust warranty is only 3 years. Wow I'd run from them with my money.
 
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