I’ve read many of the threads on the Santa Fe Towing and found some very useful pointers. I now want to be more specific with my case
I have a 2012 Santa Fe SE V6, it apparently has a factory tow package. It has a transmission cooler. I have installed a hitch and I have a 7-point connection.
I am looking to purchase a Pop-Up Camper Trailer. I know the GW tow that is listed in the manual is 3500LBS
I am going to assume that I will be towing 3500 LBS
Questions:
Is the factory Transmission cooler that is installed sufficient for what it does? Does anyone recommend upgrade?
Should I also think about installing an Oil Cooler? If yes, is there a brand that fits the oil filter that is top engine?
I will be installing a Trailer Brake system
What about shock upgrades?
Does 3500 LBS mean 3500 LBS or does Hyundai factor in a fudge factor of 10% or a few hundred pounds?
Any other advice is greatly appreciated.
I want to enjoy my camping/towing experience while not doing more damage to my Santa Fe.
Well I have the factory 3500lb package in my earlier build. I will say I have always added a transmission cooler to my other vehicles. This OEM one it pretty small in comparison and not the most efficient type. A lot depends on how, where, when you're towing. Hills and mountain roads are hard on any vehicle towing.
GVW is the max it can weight and not what it weighs as you get it. So you likely towing a lot less than that. If the trailer has electric brakes then its likely around 2000lbs or so. 1500lbs and less doesn't require brakes. So that can be a guide. Engine oil cooler no, but I would use a good Synthetic oil and if summer 5w30 which should be acceptable in the owners manual as well. Shocks have nothing to do with towing or weight. I am not sure on that 6 speed but typically Over Drive off is suggested when towing (It may not have an OD off switch) read the manual on that.
Note you want a CLASS III hitch if you haven't put one on yet. The 2" ball should not be too high (level tongue or slight lower when hitched/loaded). If you don't have 10% or more of the weight on the tongue you many experience violent trailer pitching side to side at highway speeds.
The Santa Fe's sold in Europe use the same transmission as those in North America (but different engines) and are just fine with a loop pipe ATF cooler in the radiator "bottom" tank and a fluid-fluid engine oil cooler - towing limit is 4409 lbs.
Europe has a wide range of temperatures so just draw your own conclusions
Tripplec : That is some good advice thanks , yes my hitch is a Class 3, & the trailer weight is will be between 200-2500 LBS and I will not exceed 3500 GW as per the manual. The trailer comes with Electric brakes. probably 60% of my towing will be coastal or will not involve mountain climbs but I do know for sure there will be many times we his the Sierras of Northern California. Would you recommend an upgrade to the OEM Transmission cooler?
Just curious your opinion on why no Oil Cooler? Ive read that installing one of those will help with heat dissipation up to 20-30 degrees and improve overall Horsepower. Of course that is from the Manufacture.
The engines get sufficient are around them to get the heat out from hot days. Heavy loads and climbing does generate internal temp a bit higher and the coolant keeps the block under control. A good oil will handle higher heat and stresses dissipating heat. Hence I recommend a good Synthetic Oil EG Quaker State, Penzoil to name a few depending on your region. I am sure a better tranny cooler would be good but finding a good fit of a Plate & Fine cooler as per Frequently Asked Questions About Transmission Coolers | etrailer.com while a stacked plate is also ok. Tube and fine is as the OEM and cheap very in efficient design and must be large to be effective enough.
I would think you'd be ok with your build bear in mind towing requires more frequent servicing components and more frequent transmission fluid changes. It all boils down to how hard its working and the ambient temperature. Trailer around 20C or lower is not the same as 30C and higher ambient temp. Also in the Winter when its 0C or so is also very different again.
You're welcome. Some typo's but this board locks you out shortly after posting so changes cannot be made.
Good Synthetic 5w30 oil is all you should need. Downshift the tranny on long or steep grades/climbs keeping it out of 6th gear. The fluids will run cooler when you're down shifted in the manual select shift mode. Wind drag from a large sq. ft. front adds to the stress so if its windy you'll feel the engine working more I am sure.
The Santa Fe's sold in Europe use the same transmission as those in North America (but different engines) and are just fine with a loop pipe ATF cooler in the radiator "bottom" tank and a fluid-fluid engine oil cooler - towing limit is 4409 lbs.
2.2 I4 Turbo-diesel with 16:1 CR / 23psi boost / 322 lbft torque - 20,000 mile OCI despite the very harsh engine conditions, as the ACEA-C3 oil is good enough.
I've towed a 2500lb boat/trailer combo and it did fine. The only issue I had was butt sag. The rear shocks aren't really made to handle any amount of hitch weight. Firestone makes an airbag kit (Firestone Air Bag Suspension Kit - SHIPS FREE) that should help with the sag, and level out the hitch.
If you plan on towing often, you might want to upgrade to a good full synthetic oil and slotted/drilled brake rotors.
You didn't read the previous posts. Synthetic oil is a key recommendation whether a lot or one good tripe. Just do it!!! Heat protection.
No location in your posts and shocks do not take any weight. There is no reason to change them at all. An equalizing hitch for heavy trailers is the proper way to manage tongue and trailer weight distribution. Not bags of air.
Slow down, hot rod. I never said anything about changing the shocks, and what does location have to do with anything (even though it's clearly listed on the left hand column under my username). A weight distribution hitch won't always get rid of sag on coil springs. My other rig is a Ram 1500, so I know a thing or two about coil spring sagging the ass end of a rig, even with a WD hitch. Air bags are a tried and true method for leveling a rig (why don't you ask RAM, they have one from the factory).
I am slow, all the time. Part of being vintage ....
Location gives me an idea of the temp/weather etc
Too many times (clearly not you here) people thing they need different shocks for towing big loads. NOT
Yes many vehicles including some SUV's like the European Hyundai as well have air bag leveling built in. This keeps the vehicle trim in check and lights aimed low when loaded up with stuff or passengers. A very good idea if the last. Most systems don't last that long.
I have used weight distributing hitchs and properly setup can level out the vehicle. Even take all the weight off the back if you want. The perfect setup even shown by oem's the rear wheels can be removed as the WD system takes it in stride. For big trailers or heavy loads its far better than forcing more weight on the rear suspension of a vehicle exceeding its designed limit. Air bags which level the rear are still transfering that weight onto the axle/suspension at the rear. Whereas a properly setup WD setup moves the weight to the trailer and front of the tow vehicle and handling is much much better. Its not for everyone.
Some CLASS III setups will take up to 500lbs on the ball insert but the vehcile may not be designed for that much weight at the back end. Its a lot and nothing to do with its cargo rating inside.
i will say that a good air bag leveling system for trailering or passenger loads and cargo is a great option/feature. Howevery, they have a history of failing early in life. A very costly repair. i don't know if its climate related, snow and salt or just crappy parts used. Range Rovers have them for the longest time that I recall anyway. Pickups not so much but a must have if the box is being loaded up otherwise the nose is high and headlights will blind on comers at night.
Yes many vehicles including some SUV's like the European Hyundai as well have air bag leveling built in. This keeps the vehicle trim in check and lights aimed low when loaded up with stuff or passengers. A very good idea if the last. Most systems don't last that long.
The European Santa Fe's with self-levelling rear suspension don't use airbags but use hydraulic self-energising integral with each rear damper, like Boge but Hyundai design. They last as long as normal dampers but are significantly more expensive to replace.
Towed a boat and trailer weighing 3500lbs for 4 years with the 3.3 2008 Santa Fe, (140K miles on the SUV at this time).
Get a ball mount that has a least a 3 inch rise to help level out your setup.
Also throw on a set of surge brakes on your trailer, and change your tranny oil once a year.
Never had an issue towing with the Santa Fe, with that being said if and when I step up to a boat in the 4500 LB range I will not be towing it with my current Santa Fe or the current model.
I recently rented a 15 Durango in Colorado and it was a sweet ride and a tow rating of 6000 with V6 and 7,000 with the Hemi.
I was in Colorado for vacation with the family. It was a great trip can't wait to go back.
No I did not tow while i was there with the dodge but i really enjoyed driving the Durango through the mountains and on the highways ( i had the V6)
My current Santa Fe only has 140K miles on her, she need to give me another 40K before I consider having a car payment again.
The Durango is great. My bro-in-law has an '11 loaded Citadel model with the Hemi and it's a sweet ride. When I asked him what kinda mileage he gets around town he just kind of grunted and changed the subject.
Unfortunately, as Ruperts notes, the OEM kit is a heck of lot more expensive than a pair of Gabriel Hijackers. They don't make them for a CM series Santa Fe anyway, though they do have a decent rear shock replacement.
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