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08 Oil Pan Gasket Replacement

12K views 9 replies 5 participants last post by  Tripplec 
#1 · (Edited)
Any suggestions on how thick of a bead to apply when replacing the oil pan gasket/adhesive we should say? Also what are the torque specs? Does 8 ft-lbs sound correct?

I need to take care of it tomorrow.

She almost @ 135K miles need another 65K out of her!

:whistling:
 
#3 ·
The lower oil pan bolts are all spec'd at 7.23~8.68 lbft, so your 8# is right there in the sweet spot.

When you cut off the old sealer, be VERY careful not to mar the surfaces. Be sure they are sparkling CLEAN before applying new sealant.

Hyundai's part number for the sealant is TB1217H. It's made by Techsil under that P/N. Outside of the UK, I don't know any retail shops where you can get it apart from the dealer. If you use their sealer, per Hyundai, you've only got 5 minutes to get everything buttoned up, and that recommendation does come from Techsil. Their spec is 5 minutes 'tack free time'.

While they recommend a 2.5mm bead around most of the pan, there are two special areas where they recommend 5mm. See attached.PDF for both the Techsil RTV material (there are many others you can use) and the photo of where the bead size should be increased to 5mm.
 

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#6 ·
You might want to look for a tool something like this:
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Engine-Gasket-Seal-Separator-Remover/dp/B0031RBGZ2[/ame]
I just did my oil pan on an SM model and it was very difficult to get it separated enough to get a paint scrapper in there to safely separate them. The link I provided is too much and found one for around $8.
 
#7 ·
Ok so what do i do? There are two bolts on the oil pan parallel to the subframe almost no room for tools. I used a wobble extension and 1/4 ratchet to remove but after cleaning applying RTV I am unable to get those 2 bolts on.
More than 30 minutes passed so I started from scratch, removed pan cleaned etc. Before applying RTV I dry fitted the pan, unable to attach those two bolts still. Do not line up straight so they want to strip.

I must have stripped them on the way out? $#@$@$


WOW I really got myself into a serious mess. ANY SUGGESTIONS?
 
#9 · (Edited)
I will post a tutorial tonight. Not sure what happened on my first try but I walked away for 2 hours then cleaned all the casting threads really well, I even took brass bristle brush bit with dremel to each thread and the block. I then cleaned all the bolts.

Then I took some cutting oil and tightened the 2 bolts that were problematic with the pan OFF. VERY TIGHT, but went with the loosen tighten loosen tighten until they were secure.

Applied RTV to pan installed the two problem bolts first there proceeded with the others. Not being a pro by anyone’s imagination I just didn’t want to strip anything so I really aired on the side of caution with this job.

Glad I have learned patience with cars but I was really pissed off let me tell you after my first attempt.
Life likes to give you a test that you learn your lesson.
Thanks again folks. $350.00 I was quoted so with your help I saved a lot of money.
I also replaced the infamous valve cover last night…
 
#10 ·
...
Life likes to give you a test that you learn your lesson.
Thanks again folks. $350.00 I was quoted so with your help I saved a lot of money.
I also replaced the infamous valve cover last night…
Nah, that's just Murphy showing how its done or rather not. Glad he's not been hear successfully for a while now. I thread carefully just in case.
 
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