It took a week for me to realize that my new ebay gps/nav unit called for me to attach the reverse power to the POWER bus side, not just the power to the receiver unit of the wireless unit. I had successfully attached the rca to the av bus side and it wasn't working till I figured out that a lone connection of reverse power was needed on the power bus side.
Finally I had it working, and I was measuring the distance of the red and green and yellow stripes with my wife in the driver seat doing the put in reverse gear work. At one point she noted the words were backward on the screen and looking at the image on the screen sure enough left was right and right was left. No combination of turning the camera around would make it right.
My wife said this was fine with her, but being the *^*&$^ bird that I am, I could not handle the words being backwards and the image reversed. So I grabbed the tiny manual seeking a solution. I skimmed and did not read carefully and thought it said to reverse the polarity of the reverse power and ground to the receiving unit to the wireless unit.
Within moments, I realized I could not get the car out of reverse, and the interlock had engaged. I learned how to spring it loose so I could drive, but then at 20 miles per hour it kicked out of second gear and back into first. My Hyundai Santa Fe is a 2007, with only 39k miles on it. I had zero transmission or engine problems before this point.
My check engine light came on, and being a do it yourselfer, I checked the codes. P0707, P0717, and P0722. Plus I started reading the forums on the interlock issue. So I purchased a brake light switch, and installed it. I have a reverse switch, and input and output transmission sensors arriving in 3 days. Plus, I have come to realize I may have blown my ECU,PCU,TCU or something along those lines.
I cleared the codes and tried driving it again. It kicked in first quickly after reaching 20 or so miles an hour.
I am semi retired and it it occurring to me it might be something simple. I have checked every fuse on the Driver kick panel, and under the hood twice with a multimeter.
I cannot believe I have blown up my car so badly by reversing my polarity on the reverse gear wire and ground to my wireless receiver unit of the back up camera.
Please some expert out there, or non expert give me some insight before I start swapping sensors and switches wholesale in my 2 month new to me Santa fe. I am virtually in tears over my goof. I am fairly sure the dealership will charge me 500 to look at it, and I cannot afford that. The local shade tree mechanic wants 150 dollars to just diagnose it.
I have not taken a nitro pill in 13 years, but I took one yesterday as I pondered my ignorance.
Thank you to anyone that might have an idea what I may have done.
I'm not an expert in mechanics but it sure sounds like there is a bad signal reading from your ecu. I agree with you that a single short ground should not ruin the whole ECU but it might still affect some sensors though.
First I would remove everything that was added to the car, bring it back to the state it was in when you got it. Then, if the problem is still there, you could at least have a local mechanic plug your car on a computer diagnostic equipment and have a ECU test done. This should not cost "that" much and give you a faily good idea about what exactly is wrong.
From that point I guess you will have a solution to your problem.
I believe so. I read his detailed post however specific are omitted. I don't understand how a functioning display and wireless transmitter would change the wording direction by reversing wires at the transmitter or anywhere. The same goes for power leads a transmitter doesn't work in reverse (receiver) if the polarity is reversed (thinking everything works backwards LOL).
I am gathering the OP did not use the backup light powered leads for the camera, wireless rear unit power. Current would be so low it would no blow the fuse and even if it did nothing else would be affected.
This is another reason I would not install or attempt to install a remote starter. Todays vehicles are very complex and digital electronics, signals can be anywhere. A positive signal on a mulitmeter doesn't mean its from a 12V battery source, it could be a logic signal and only high impedance connection should be made if at all.
I ran a wire from the tail light of the car all the way to the dash. I know I should have fished the reverse wire under the steering column, but I was insecure that I might mess something up.
Yes my brain was in total reverse stalled gear when I imagined reversing the power polarity to my receiving unit would swap the image left to right. I have considered swapping the wires on the RCA connection, but I still need to get the car working first. How can you seriously get mad at yourself, since our abilities and flaws are all we have.
I have a set of 120 fuses arriving tomorrow and I am going to swap out the fuses in the under the hood box. There are only 20 or so mini blade fuses so it shouldn't take long. I also am of the opinion that I did not do anything sufficiently horrible to mess up the ecu. Also, I have input/ and output sensors for the transmission arriving, and a reverse switch. After I do these few easy swap outs and fixes. I am taking it to Hyundai. And handing them the keys to my home, and wallet and credit cards.
Sadly, I am a bit of a cynic when it comes to mechanics I don't know. I feel that they will charge far more than is needed to fix something, and often you never know what really was the matter. I wish I felt differently, but I have watched mechanics speaking in a foreign language I know fairly fluently and realizing they were taking a customer to the cleaners. I speak several languages, with greater and lessor ability, Spanish, Portuguese, Vietnamese, French and English.
Yet I cannot find this problem with the Santa Fe. My money is on something simple. This is the main reason I am hesitant to take it to the dealership. Thank you to everyone who considered my problem.
I have completely disconnected every wire and taped them off with eletrical tape, under the dash, and in the back side of car, and removed the wire running from the rear for the reverse power. I am going to sleep now and let my night sleep bring me ideas, or someone out there an idea of what happened perhaps.
My family is healthy and fridge is full of food, so all is good.
If you want to get a good estimate for the repairs, you could get a second independant repair center do a checkup on your car and compare their results with your dealer's. Just having it checked should not cost that much!
After going back through your first post, I figured a little more what might have happened.
You might have blasted the reverse switch or its fuse (if there is any). I think you have a good chance to fix your problem with the replacement you ordered anyway.
As for the reverse image, many rear view cameras will "mirror" the view automatically. I'm wondering if your gps is reversing the image as well? This would explain the words being backward.
I've installed 2 cameras like this in my cars and with both, the image is reversed Just like if I was looking in a mirror. You should check your gps specs for rear view camera requirements.
And again, good luck with this.
If I understand you correctly, all you did 'wrong' was to reverse the original taillight wiring to the camera. Without polarity protection, I can't imagine that did the camera any good, but in the wiring process, you've added a slightly different problem to your list
The P0707 indicates an issue with the 'transaxle range switch', which is the device that your shift cable operates right on top of the shaft that goes into your transaxle. The P0717 indicates no signal from the transmission speed sensor. P0722 indicates no signal off the output shaft speed sensor.
The good news? ALL of those sensors have something in common -- they also happen to get power from -- wait for it -- yup, the 10A 'backup lamp fuse' (aka B/UP LP). It was fried when you reversed polarity. Replace it and you should be good to go. Find it as fuse 21 in the box under the hood.
He's lucky and as I was summarizing above that blowing that fuse was the worst that could happen. although I didn't know the other transaxle systems were tied into it.
When checking fused with power on them with a multimeter. Both sided need to have 12V (in side & out side). Otherwise pulling and metering them for zero resistance (continuity) are the only two ways to be sure.
Given the name assigned to the fuse, who could guess?
I gave up trying to troubleshoot automotive electrical issues (directly or online) without a schematic in front of me at just about the same time they quit using carburetors in cars.
OH Jelly beans on the house. I know I checked it 3 times. I went out just now and fully convinced I had checked fuse 21 three times. I put the meter to it and no reading?? I pulled it and my wife and I both could not see the break in the fuse, but its there. Finally something logical to fix.
I grabbed a 10 amp fuse and replaced it in the 21 slot in the fuse box. Everything works.
Thank you Canderson Tripplet and everyone else who has been trying to knock sense into my stuburn mind. I knew it couldnt be that since I checked it so many times. And sure enuf it was the fuse. I feel like a thousand pounds dropped off my shoulders.
I am so happy I cannot thank everyone enough. How in heavens name I could miss that. And my wife also missed it since she did a check of those fuses. The multimeter is new to me and, oh heck I have no excuse for being so lame.
About swapping the image, the only way is to check settings on my GPS/NAV unit, do I understand that part correctly? I have one of those license plate cameras that has 7 lights on it including an infra red one on the sides of the camera and a screw on each side.
I guess I can get used to it being reversed. My wife kinda feels its more logical reversed.
And, I need to find that reverse power place to attach my red power line under the dash. I cut out all the lines to the rear of the car. I am pretty sure with the needle tester I can find the wire fairly quickly in one of the harnesses under the dash. I think I read someplace its purple colored wire.
Proud owner of a working 2007 Santa Fe. I am off to drive to the Autozone. I burned one of my brake lights on the right side. It may be one that gets brighter in reverse.
I have seen a number of times that seen the break is no visible but where its good or not can ONYLY be confirmed with a meter.
Two ways this can be done with the vehicle off.
- if there is 12 (power to one side then there must be power to the other side of the fuse, 12V) if not the fuse is blown.
- pull the fuse and meter it on the ohm scale or diode mode which some meters have as beeping to confirm continuity. But either way you know its not blown. This also works for the first type after pulling the hot fuse out. Measure it if you're not sure for continuity as well.
Clearly something was missed in all your endeavours to fix this. No Nitro now just a joyous drink!!
Henry, actually, most of the rear view cameras will show you a "mirrored" image. If that camera is showing you an image of some written text, it will appear just like in a mirror and that is the way it should be (easier for the brain to understand your looking "behind" you). If it is your case I think you should better leave it that way since it is like that in almost every other cars.
But, if the image is NOT showing reversed (like in a normal camera) but embedded text (if there is) IS showing backward, then you better have a look at your GPS settings and requirements.
Glad you did fix your main issue without too much trouble though!
Santa's hopeful thread where he gives directions on how to connect rev power by tapping into the blue wire, in pin 4 of the Red Socket behind the ESC/driver side kick panel/fuse box.
My 07 SF GLS has no blue wire in any hole in the red socket. What would I buy or order if i wanted the thing ma jig to create a pin suited to inserting into that socket pin 4 of the red socket on my car. Would that work?
His explanation only applies for trim models that included the auto-dimming rear view mirror or Homelink mirror system. That function (dimming) is defeated when you're backing up so you can see where the heck you're going. There, pin 4 could have been used. Without digging into a GLS that I don't have handy here, see if you can identify pin 14. Is there anything there at all, or did they not wire that without the fancier rear view mirrors, either? That's actually the source for what pops out at pin 4 for the mirrors.
If there's nothing in either 4 or 14, you can't use the rear view mirror circuit for your reverse signal, and your task becomes much harder, since the only other R signal that comes up to the front is the one to connector M15D, pin 2 (brown with black stripe) on the instrument cluster (which is what lights your "R" lamp on the dash), and that's no piece of cake to access.
If there's nothing in either 4 or 14, you can't use the rear view mirror circuit for your reverse signal, and your task becomes much harder, since the only other R signal that comes up to the front is the one to connector M15D, pin 2 (brown with black stripe) on the instrument cluster (which is what lights your "R" lamp on the dash), and that's no piece of cake to access.
Am I correct to understand that the red bus (driver side behind ESC panel/dkp is the one where my model does not have pin 4 available? But if I purchased a Molex terminal that fit the bus, would the reverse power be coming out of the bus? I am afraid to try shifting gears and starting the car with the bus disconnected, and my wire needle tester is a little to thick to fit down the channel of the Molex blade down the hole in pin 4's socket.
Above, you commented that IP/N (grey in color) was next to the IP/B bus (red in color). I believe I understood you to say shortly after Santas post that this is called the IP/N connector, is next to the red connector. I could be wrong. is this the connector where I might expect a live reverse power wire on pin 14's blue wire, if one is at all available on my car?
Notwithstanding, if no blue wire is at pin 14 on the grey connector next to the red bus, or its a connector buried someplace not visible with the dash and glove box panels removed on passenger side, which to me it is not. I am left with no choice but to run a reverse power from the back of the car.
The location I am tapping into reverse power is just at the rubber grommet hose that connects the wiring harness from the auto to the tailgate. I had in my first effort tried to use a wire that did not force me to lead a wire exposed. I found the reverse power on the headliner side, but the harness wire is so tightly fed through the rubber hose that keeps the wires waterproof from the car to the tailgate, it was simply impossible to feed it and/or the RCA connection through even with RCA connector removed (thus why I purchased a wireless device (my second camera - one came with gps nav unit)). What I did find was a round hole about the size of a quarter with a simple round unused rubber plug in it. I made a tiny hole and ran one wire through it for reverse power and fed it to taillight, and through the car via a circuitous route. I dismantled and cut the wire in various places to remove it when I had the multi-faceted shift interlock and sensor code problem. So I am facing re-running a red reverse power again, which is appearing easy given the difficulty of finding any reverse power under the dash, beside the R indicator light on the instrument panel.
As I mentioned I ordered 100 feet of 6 different colors of 18 gauge awd wire along with some red and blue Lockitt POSI-TAP, and lastly a 16 slot Molex connector to steal a wire pin from if placing one into pin 4 might work. These should arrive Tue/Wed this week. So I am going to investigate wire 14 if you have time to indicate if the grey bus next to the red one is the correct bus to seek pin 14 connected to a blue wire. My wife had lost interest in project so I don't have anyone to shift into and out of park and reverse anymore. So I am looking for the correct wire without a tester. And, to be honest I am chicken to try and test it with the parking brake on and shift P to R and such.
A separate issue, I will compose in the next entry so that as not make this too long for one question. It seems regardless of how detailed and precise I try to be, I still manage to omit important facts.
Thank you/everyone again,
Jouleblu :wink:
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