08 Santa Fe rear brake pads replacement question... - Page 2 - Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum
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#11 Old 03-23-2012, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stephen9666 View Post
Replacing pads without turning or replacing the rotor is not the "correct" way to do a brake job. Replacing or turning the rotors is always recommended.

Just putting on new pads is what's commonly called a "pad slap." It's a ghetto way to do it. You might not have any problems, but it's not the ideal way to do it.
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Originally Posted by sn20202020 View Post
You're right. the IDEAL BEST way is replacing both pads & rotors together.
Cheap 2 rear rotors for $62 can be delivered from 2008 - HYUNDAI - SANTA_FE | Brake Rotors
"Correct"? "Ideal best"? Guys, the OP is not a government department. He is some guy with a 62,000-mile car that needs new brake pads.

I just did a $100 "ghetto" pad swap and everything works great. Okay, there's a bit of lingering sponginess because I didn't bleed the system. But I will do that this weekend. And I will save the cost of rotors until they are truly needed.
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#12 Old 03-23-2012, 08:53 PM
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1. called "ghetto" way: Pads only
easiest, cheapest, fastest, if rotors look good.

If inner and outer edges are rusted like these pictures,
I guess, expect 3~7% less braking performance on the rotors.



used pad's inner and outer edges are uneven.




2. middle class way: Turn rotors + pads
Visit a shop with heavy rotors to turn. 2 rotors for $30~$40
rotors became thin now.
100% performance


3. ideal richman's way: New rotors + pads
new aftermarket 2 rotors for $60~80
100% performance

It's all up to you, owners.

For me, I did #1 for 2nd pads. And did #3 for 3rd pads.
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#13 Old 03-23-2012, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by kthays View Post
Thanks for all the advice. This forum is great with people like you around. It's a great way to learn and not go too crazy in the process. Have a great weekend ahead!
I would have to agree with those that have said "just replace the pads." Unless you can physically see or feel something wrong with the rotors there is no sense in replacing them. I have always done this with every car I have ever had, and I have had A LOT of cars. Perfect example: my '08 SantaFe. I now have 132,000 miles on it. I have replaced the brake pads two times since it was new, yet I have never had the rotors "re-dressed" or replaced. Why spend $ if you dont have too?


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#14 Old 03-23-2012, 11:59 PM
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Not that easy to see a little excess run-out with the things installed on the vehicle.
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#15 Old 03-24-2012, 05:18 AM
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Under sn20202020's schedule, I'm inclined to do #1 on the first set of pads and #3 on the second. By the 2nd pad replacement the road salt up here has generally made toast out of the rotors.

Turning the rotors hasn't always worked well for me in the past. For the cost, all it ever did was leave me with thin rotors that warped easily and needed replacement sooner rather than later. I'd rather just leave them alone for as long as possible, even if it costs me $20 worth of pad life.
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#16 Old 03-24-2012, 09:01 AM
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There are definitely a few schools of thought here, but I really appreciate your perspectives. My experience on having the rotors turned is that it's a hassle to find a place to do it in the time I have to actually work on the brakes. I need to take a separate vehicle, drive 30 miles, wait an hour or two (that is if they can get me in on their Saturday schedule -- My wife and I both use our vehicles all "week" long) and then half the day is gone. I think what I'm going to do is buy Autozone rotors and pads with the intent that if everything looks/feels ok on the rotors (minus the aesthetic appearance of the inner/outer rust where the pads don't touch), I'm going to just change pads and then "return" the rotors. Then, I at least have them in hand once everything is apart. Since this is more of an event for me than second-nature it will already take me much longer than most of you, so time is important too. This has been a really helpful thread!
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#17 Old 03-24-2012, 10:19 AM
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I'm in a lot smaller town than Madison, and just take mine down to the local Midas dealer and have 'em spun. If I set up a time in advance, they're perfectly willing to work me into their schedule. As a result, turning rotors (and Don, assuming you have someone competent doing the work, if they wind up "thin" after their first trip to the lathe, you needed new rotors anyway) has never been such a painful experience here.
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#18 Old 03-24-2012, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don67 View Post
Under sn20202020's schedule, I'm inclined to do #1 on the first set of pads and #3 on the second. By the 2nd pad replacement the road salt up here has generally made toast out of the rotors.

Turning the rotors hasn't always worked well for me in the past. For the cost, all it ever did was leave me with thin rotors that warped easily and needed replacement sooner rather than later. I'd rather just leave them alone for as long as possible, even if it costs me $20 worth of pad life.
That was the same as what I meant.
Quote:
For me, I did #1 for 2nd pads. And did #3 for 3rd pads.
1st OEM pads, already installed at factory rotors
2nd pads(1st pad replacement) - #1 way
3rd pads(2nd pad replacement) - #3 way



Quote:
Originally Posted by kthays View Post
My experience on having the rotors turned is that it's a hassle to find a place to do it in the time I have to actually work on the brakes. I need to take a separate vehicle, drive 30 miles, wait an hour or two (that is if they can get me in on their Saturday schedule -- My wife and I both use our vehicles all "week" long) and then half the day is gone.
Exactly! for #2, it needs 3~5 hours and other vehicle. What if you find the shop is closed or too busy... then you might put the old rotors back and wait another days? I'd just pay $20~$30 more for brand new rotors than turning them.
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#19 Old 03-25-2012, 02:57 PM
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Brake job finished! Rotors looked good, so I just cleaned them up. I lubed everything as recommended and put on new Duralast Gold pads... everything is super quiet, smooth and nice tight stopping, especially when backing up. Old pads were just a hair above the wear bar, so timing was good. One note though, the star adjuster for the E-brake is a P.I.T.A. Thanks for all the great advice. Total job: $48.99 plus tax and a packet of grease (already had brake cleaner).
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#20 Old 03-25-2012, 08:29 PM
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So I just bled my brakes today after installing new Monroe ceramic pads last week, and lots of bubbles came out of the rear lines but none out of the front. Pedal feel is better, overall performance is smooth and quiet, but full-blown panic stops on dry pavement are no better than before... still can't lock wheels or induce ABS action on dry pavement.

Suggestions are welcome. I'm wondering if I should bleed again, or if it might just be a limitation of the $99 ceramic pads.
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