Valve Cover Gasket ? - Page 3 - Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum
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#21 Old 01-23-2012, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canderson View Post
Normally it has no dielectric properties at all - usually just a solvent of one sort or another that evaporates after it's done its job of washing away the gunk.

I'm also with "stealership" when it comes to parts. Hyundai dealers around here charge $52 and change for a cabin air filter.

My can of "Hi Tec Electronic Spray" clearly says dielectric to 35,000 volts fast drying in 18 seconds safe for all metals most plastics blaa blaa blaa/.

With the rectifier bridge, diodes etc inside the housing , throttle body or carb cleaner etc might damage and leave residue. Even contact cleaner if you unlucky could do something.


I didn't find GM or Ford any more magnanimous in their parts pricing--two words Rock Auto.

Last edited by santa06; 01-23-2012 at 03:48 PM.
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#22 Old 01-23-2012, 03:55 PM
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today' shop adventure

Fellow tech had oil leak/no charge voltage --

Note in the pics, the cover gasket now has raised pad added to the gasket, likely to apply more material and load acrosss the seam where front cover mates to cylinder head.
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#23 Old 01-23-2012, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by santa06 View Post
My can of "Hi Tec Electronic Spray" clearly says dielectric to 35,000 volts fast drying in 18 seconds safe for all metals most plastics blaa blaa blaa/.

With the rectifier bridge, diodes etc inside the housing , throttle body or carb cleaner etc might damage and leave residue. Even contact cleaner if you unlucky could do something.
As to the first: I'm not familiar with that specific product. Do they mention where they're based on the can? Indiana? Would like to know more about it. Stuff sounds more like a HV enamel! Most solvents simply evaporate, so there's not really an issue of conductivity. What is it?

As for the latter, I'd worry about spraying solvents into the 'guts' of an alternator. The diodes could likely care less (sealed devices and pressed into place), but I worry about any plastic or materials and the enamel on the wires themselves.
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#24 Old 01-23-2012, 06:10 PM
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Does anyone know the torque specs for the 3.3 valve cover bolts ? I would like to check and re torque if possible. I would also assume this should be done cold, I do not want to snap off any bolts or possibly crack the head.

Last month I had a cam gear job done on my 2010 Toyota and had to go back for a leaking valve cover, I flipped out when a tech came out with a socket and just started muscling down the valve cover bolts while the engine was hot ???.......and no torque wrench to boot, supposed to be 9 lb max which is practically finger tight !
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#25 Old 01-23-2012, 06:47 PM
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Some portion of my alternator was soaked with oil until I tighten cover bolts.
Much better than the fully soaked alternator above picture with no voltage.

I checked battery terminal's voltage;
when engine stop, 12.8V
when running, 14.4V
That looks normal.

Is it easy to uninstall the alternator from the engine?
Do we need to take radiator fan off?
or can be done thru tire wheel well cover?
What about loosen the belt? Is special tool needed?

If it's easy, I want to uninstall and open and look at the inside of the alternator someday.
to check and clean if oil is damaging any inner parts.
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#26 Old 01-23-2012, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by vctr View Post
Does anyone know the torque specs for the 3.3 valve cover bolts ? I would like to check and re torque if possible.
7.23 ~ 8.68 ft lb (or 9.80 ~ 11.76 Nm if you're into that instead). How in the name of time they come up with numbers like that with 2 decimals of precision, I have no clue! Actually, I do. They're using 1.0 ~ 1.2 kgf.m and converting
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#27 Old 01-23-2012, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Don67 View Post
Do you think it's a gasket problem, or simply a matter of bolts loosening up over time? I did find some looseness in mine, as apparently did wymi.

like the pic the guy posted, the gasket changed since the factory gasket. the bolts may loosten over time too, not sure because I am always very careful to not break one.
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#28 Old 01-23-2012, 10:36 PM
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Your concern shouldn't be so much about breaking the bolt as deforming the cover through over-torquing it such that you make the leak worse than it was when you started!
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#29 Old 01-23-2012, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sn20202020 View Post
Some portion of my alternator was soaked with oil until I tighten cover bolts.
Much better than the fully soaked alternator above picture with no voltage.

I checked battery terminal's voltage;
when engine stop, 12.8V
when running, 14.4V
That looks normal.

Is it easy to uninstall the alternator from the engine?
Yes, I can do 1 in about an hr on a rack

Do we need to take radiator fan off?
NO

or can be done through tire wheel well cover?
Done from underneath via the right wheel well

What about loosen the belt?
Roll tension arm and flip belt off, same as any other Lambda in Sonata, Santa Fe, Azera, Entourage, Veracruz

Is special tool needed?
NO,, I prefer long 3/8 drive extension with a 19mm flex head impact socket and long breaker bar

If it's easy, I want to uninstall and open and look at the inside of the alternator someday.
Leave yours in, I'll sell you 1 of the 2 I have sitting here at home to play with.. might have 3rd when Hyundai says scrap the part we holding.
Pics is of recent 3.3 Santa Fe alternator replacement..
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Last edited by sbr711; 01-23-2012 at 11:03 PM.
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#30 Old 01-23-2012, 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by canderson View Post
Your concern shouldn't be so much about breaking the bolt as deforming the cover through over-torquing it such that you make the leak worse than it was when you started!
Go back and look at the valve cover pics closely,, look at the bolt hole,, see the raised pad around the bolt hole.. cover will mate with head surface only to this pad, and no more, thus we cannot compress the tar out of the gasket.. Torque at 80 in/lb is what I been doing.. only to hold cover down, not compress gasket farther. as heat cycle over time harden rubber, and it shift/shrink, then it will leak.

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