Join Date: May 2010
Location: hiding from those who might be looking for me
I dont own Hyundai car, I drive everybody else Hyundai during day
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 174 Post(s)
Been there,done that. Yes you can do it but its a royal pain and can be expensive. There are 2 sensors wired in series. One is attached to the fuel pump on drivers side and one,called the remote is on passenger side. This gives accurate readings if vehicle is not level. Remove rear seat. The dress covers over front seat bolts must be pryed out from the middle of either side and lifted;if you pry near the top it will break. I've read that you can get to the rear bolts without removing the cargo compartments but I pulled them and there is a reason-more later. Pry tabs at back of jack compartment and remove screws and lift out. Now remove cargo compartment. Get the screws at the rear or you'll snap off a big piece of plastic. Take out rear seat bolts and pull seat. Fold back rug flaps and see access ports to the senders. Disconnect plugs pry up floor plates that are held with putty. Don't trash the putty and it will reseal when you're done. I got the locking rings off with hammer and punch but I don't reccomend it. You'll kill yourself trying to put it back and it's a dangerous-spark hazard. There are 7 tabs on the ring so a spanner tool won't work well. Best bet is OTC 6599 for $44.64 from Amazon. The something-Kent brand that Hyundai calls for and Miller Special Tool 9340 That GM, Ford and Chrysler use are all the same tool. SPX owns all three companies but the latter two go for over 100 bucks. The fuel line to the pump and the hose connecting the fuel pump to the remote sensor(down in the gasoline) must come off to get the 2 units out. The fuel hose uses one of those push back collar locks.I cut a piece of stiff plastic, rolled it and pushed with the side of a pliers but the right tool is pretty cheap if you can figure out which size you need. Now with both units out you'll see a little brush type wiper that rides across a set of closely spaced contacts on the printed circuit board on each unit The wiper is part of the plastic clip that holds the float arm. The little brush wiper breaks and you get erratic or no contact and bad readings. Visually see which one is broken and check both with an ohm meter. A good one will go smoothly from 0 to full resistance (I think it was around 150 ohms but I'm not sure) as you move the float. Now that you know which one is bad you have to replace it. They don't sell the little clip, only the whole float assy. I needed the remote side. Each side is a dfferent part number. Hyundai dealers seem to charge what the want. I got quotes from $88 to $101 for the float assy. Assemble in reverse order, Next problem: The Hyundai seat bolts are self tapping and can leave bits of metal in the floor threads when removed. Some of the bolts will go in half way and jam. I had two bad ones. Don't force them. You'll ruin the bolts and thread in floor. Try the bolts before putting in seats. If you run into resistance get Snap-on rethreading tap size: mm10-1.25 (one of the rear bolts was mm12-1.125) and clean up the thread with plenty of oil or tapping fluid. The tool is actually Blue Point ,on Snap-on web site,free shipping and under 3 bucks. The ring tool with a breaker bar still needed a big piece of pipe to rotate to the locking detents.They tell you not to use an impact wrench. That's why I said to get the tool. The bolt problem is why you may have to pull the cargo compartment. The Hyundai service manual covers this repair and is available free on the Hyundai web site so register,pick a pass word and look it over before you start. Maybe after reading this you'll have second thoughts. Good luck.
Well with my luck, my wife's car has 79k miles and I am dropping it off at the dealer tomorrow night. Fuel gage not working and the engine light is on.
|Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)|