Fuel Level Sensor Question - Page 5 - Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum
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#41 Old 04-01-2012, 04:59 PM
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PAGE 5 IS MINE !!!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mycrossover View Post
Been there,done that. Yes you can do it but its a royal pain and can be expensive. There are 2 sensors wired in series. One is attached to the fuel pump on drivers side and one,called the remote is on passenger side. This gives accurate readings if vehicle is not level. Remove rear seat. The dress covers over front seat bolts must be pryed out from the middle of either side and lifted;if you pry near the top it will break. I've read that you can get to the rear bolts without removing the cargo compartments but I pulled them and there is a reason-more later. Pry tabs at back of jack compartment and remove screws and lift out. Now remove cargo compartment. Get the screws at the rear or you'll snap off a big piece of plastic. Take out rear seat bolts and pull seat. Fold back rug flaps and see access ports to the senders. Disconnect plugs pry up floor plates that are held with putty. Don't trash the putty and it will reseal when you're done. I got the locking rings off with hammer and punch but I don't reccomend it. You'll kill yourself trying to put it back and it's a dangerous-spark hazard. There are 7 tabs on the ring so a spanner tool won't work well. Best bet is OTC 6599 for $44.64 from Amazon. The something-Kent brand that Hyundai calls for and Miller Special Tool 9340 That GM, Ford and Chrysler use are all the same tool. SPX owns all three companies but the latter two go for over 100 bucks. The fuel line to the pump and the hose connecting the fuel pump to the remote sensor(down in the gasoline) must come off to get the 2 units out. The fuel hose uses one of those push back collar locks.I cut a piece of stiff plastic, rolled it and pushed with the side of a pliers but the right tool is pretty cheap if you can figure out which size you need. Now with both units out you'll see a little brush type wiper that rides across a set of closely spaced contacts on the printed circuit board on each unit The wiper is part of the plastic clip that holds the float arm. The little brush wiper breaks and you get erratic or no contact and bad readings. Visually see which one is broken and check both with an ohm meter. A good one will go smoothly from 0 to full resistance (I think it was around 150 ohms but I'm not sure) as you move the float. Now that you know which one is bad you have to replace it. They don't sell the little clip, only the whole float assy. I needed the remote side. Each side is a dfferent part number. Hyundai dealers seem to charge what the want. I got quotes from $88 to $101 for the float assy. Assemble in reverse order, Next problem: The Hyundai seat bolts are self tapping and can leave bits of metal in the floor threads when removed. Some of the bolts will go in half way and jam. I had two bad ones. Don't force them. You'll ruin the bolts and thread in floor. Try the bolts before putting in seats. If you run into resistance get Snap-on rethreading tap size: mm10-1.25 (one of the rear bolts was mm12-1.125) and clean up the thread with plenty of oil or tapping fluid. The tool is actually Blue Point ,on Snap-on web site,free shipping and under 3 bucks. The ring tool with a breaker bar still needed a big piece of pipe to rotate to the locking detents.They tell you not to use an impact wrench. That's why I said to get the tool. The bolt problem is why you may have to pull the cargo compartment. The Hyundai service manual covers this repair and is available free on the Hyundai web site so register,pick a pass word and look it over before you start. Maybe after reading this you'll have second thoughts. Good luck.

We just unbolt the seats and roll them onto the cargo floor.. then have at the carpet, covers and senders.. If in good mood,, maybe 1.5hr average time to do the pair..

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Last edited by pare_john; 12-07-2012 at 01:50 PM.
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#42 Old 04-07-2012, 12:58 PM
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Mostly wrong

If you go to the service manual and find the test for the fuel gauge you'll see a partial schematic showing the battery,ign. sw.,fuel gauge and both floats all IN SERIES and a return to gnd. on the instrument cluster. This is the way all cars have done it since the stone age.The fuel gauge is a milliameter and the floats are rheostats varying the current. They substitute a 3 to 4 watt/12V bulb for the fuel pump float and it lights and the gauge reads up scale if it is good. There are also connections to the PCM from either side of the remote sender. This plus a ground allows the PCM to make the comparitive readings across the two senders for several other functions and error detection. This is what you were referring to. I've been an electronic tech. for 50 yrs. I've worked in aero space,the recording industry,TV and audio repair and automotive repair. and I can read a schematic. I definately blew it with the rear seat and should have rolled it back as another poster suggested.
On another string on the same problem member sn202020 submitted some great photos that clearly show the damaged rheostat wipers mounted on the float arm that are the usual cause of these gauge problems He also shows a new improved wiper that is coming through on some float assemblies. I got another of the old fragile ones. If I'd known of the better one I would have raised a stink with Hyundai to try and get a good one. The old wipers are doomed to fail.
The reason there are two rheostats on each each sender and the two wipers are connected together as a jumper is this allows the resistance to be altered without having a flexable wire connected to the float arm, which would fail even faster than the wipers, which you would need if there was just one rheostat.

Last edited by pare_john; 12-07-2012 at 01:50 PM.
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#43 Old 04-07-2012, 03:18 PM
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The lines for signal from the sensors to the PCM aren't in series, hence my comment about them being checked separately for a 'sanity check' and a possible code thrown if the discrepancy is too large. I have the schematics. The way they did it is pretty cute (from an electronics point of view) and NOT immediately obvious from the schematic until you get your head into it and spot the resistor back on the instrument cluster (on an entirely different page) that makes this circuit work. Rather than a readable schematic, it's definitely more of a wiring diagram, else they would have oriented things differently on the diagram, too.

What they've done is create a series voltage divider between the power source (instrument cluster with resistor there), the sub-sender, the main sender, and ground. Three resistors (one fixed) and two outputs. Tapping a signal at the 'top' (powered) end of the sub-sender and one between the sub and main senders gives them separate information on both, fed through an A to D converter somewhere in the PCM. Where I will agree is that the 'ground' side of the sub is what provides power to the main, so in that sense, they are 'series wired'.

The confusion in describing this as a 'series' circuit is some assumption that one could make that the outputs are wired in series, and sampled as a combined result - which is what I was attempting to avoid as a thought in anyone's mind.

So I think we can both agree that neither of us are playing with our friends in the street, yes?
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#44 Old 04-19-2012, 02:43 PM
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Would like to say about the fuel sensors, that it seems to be a common problem since the dealer keeps the parts in stock. I called Hyundai Customer Service and lodge a complaint and got a case #. Would like for everyone to do the same so they will need to issue a recall and we can have it fixed or be reimbursed if you have had it fixed.

Last edited by pare_john; 10-28-2012 at 07:14 AM.
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#45 Old 10-27-2012, 11:47 PM
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Going to bump this up, just happened to my car and guess what.. i just hit 60000 miles today. It started to happen 59950ish.. I actually video tape it while coming back from work. You think the dealer will still warranty the fuel level units?

2013 Sonata GLS w/ Popular pkg - Mods: LED Cup mod - F2.4 GDI Emblem - LED DRLs Fogs - 3M Clear film Protector for Bumper, hood, fenders - LED license plate bulbs 6000k - More to come.
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#46 Old 10-28-2012, 11:15 AM
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Bummer on the timing.

Honestly, it will depend upon the mood of the Service Manager and the way the dealer usually handles customers in your situation. Bad hair day? Got a raise? Rooting for San Diego? Wife left him?

HOWEVER .. if you've got video that shows both the gauges going wonky AND a shot of the odometer at the same time (that would be brilliant), you've got a great case. The warranty talks about when a problem occurs with respect to mileage, not when you were able to roll it into the dealer to fix it. Get it in immediately, and if you get any grief and your video happens to show the odo at some point, show it to them.
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#47 Old 10-28-2012, 08:57 PM
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Well with my luck, my wife's car has 79k miles and I am dropping it off at the dealer tomorrow night. Fuel gage not working and the engine light is on.
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#48 Old 12-07-2012, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reus49 View Post
Well with my luck, my wife's car has 79k miles and I am dropping it off at the dealer tomorrow night. Fuel gage not working and the engine light is on.
What did you end up finding out about your car reus49 ? My wife's is doing the exact same thing...

Thanks,

Darwin
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#49 Old 12-07-2012, 12:08 PM
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Rippy

Had to replace both, fuel pump as well as the other piece (floater??). The check engine light was for a faulty brake switch.
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#50 Old 06-20-2013, 05:09 PM
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I am on Second Sante Fe 2013 and both having same problem . Time for Hyundai to do Recall-Campaign
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