My Santa Fe fuel gauge is erratic, and now the check engine light is on also. After experiencing the problem this week and reading all of the forum entries I can find on here about fuel guage problems, I have a few questions.
1. Is replacing the right and left fuel tank level sensors a reasonable job at home for a guy who is mechanically inclined, has plenty of ventilated garage space and time during vacation to do it?
2. How expensive is the process for the dealer to do it on a vehicle out of warranty?
3. How expensive are the fuel level sensors themselves?
4. Are the fuel level sensors only available via the dealer?
My 2007 Santa Fe fuel gauge started acting erratically the other day (showing completely empty at times, quarter full at other times) so I was happy to come across this thread, giving me an idea of what I'm facing. I think I'll hit the dealer first, even though its been a little over 5 yrs since I bought the car. At least with an idea of the cost, I wouldn't be completely shocked. Thanks everyone.
I had to have my fuel sensor replaced. I was driving home with my husband and all the sudden the car started stalling out. He said sounded like a fuel issue, but no warning lights were on (engine light or low fuel light). Well luckily I was at about 50k miles, so they towed me and fixed for free. However, I got it fixed in a town that wasn't my hometown. Unfortunately I kept smelling gas, and had to take it back to my local dealer 2 more times to get it fixed. I guess the first dealership tried to EASY FIX my problem. There is a part (back under back seats, or trunk boxes) that needs to be replaced as well once opened.
Glad to have it fixed finally, and had no problems in over 8 months....thank goodness! Hope yours is an easier fix! :thumbsup:
My 2007 SF got ECL 3 days ago, when I checked DTC, I found 3 codes;
- P0463 Fuel Level Sensor A Circuit High Input
- P0464 Fuel Level Sensor A Circuit Intermittent
- P2068 Fuel Level Sensor 'B' Circuit High
I reseted those code 3 days ago, until now ECL did not come back yet.
I hope this problem is not that serious so that I can just reset ECL codes sometimes
without replacing those sensors.
because it need a special tool to buy for $170
Yes, you're right, buddy. This IS a common problem on not only the 2007 but also the 2008 and 2009 3.3L V-6 Santa Fe as well.
They ALL had the same piece of crap fuel sensors installed in their tanks. Must have been a ****** supplier who provided that part to the factory for three long years. Imagine the number of vehicles that must have that crap installed!
I'm amazed that someone hasn't taken Hyundai to task with a class action suit, considering the frequency of the repair.....AND the cost.
Not to mention the cost of that "special" tool. What a joke! It's a two dollar piece of metal and it sells for HOW MUCH??? $170 or something? That's insane. Does Hyundai own the company that makes it? I smell a rat here!!!
Yes, the "tool" would have made life much easier. Got the retaining ring removed and replaced w/o it, but I don't believe a certified Hyundai Tech would have pounded or cursed quite as much.
Removing access covers made it clear that Hyundai only opened the fuel pump side (driver side) last time the gas gauge was acting up. Hoping this meant the passenger side fuel sender was the problem, I only replaced that side. (ordered two fuel senders, 2 passenger side fuel sender "assemblies" were sent)
After a fill up and a 15min drive the gas gauge has moved to the half way mark instead of empty.
Gonna give it a couple of days to "sync up", and see whether I need to tear into the fuel pump side.
It was an interesting day.
Edit: Had the rear end in the air on ramps to help syphon gas out.. spare tire in view, reminded me I'd never checked the air in the spare. Supposed to have 60#.. mine had 13 lbs of air in it.
I found,
in Korea, 2 parts are ONLY $20.
and labor charge is only $30,
so total $50 will replace 2 senders in Korea.
Compare to US or Canada, parts $80 x 2 + tax =$200.
and labor at dealer $400(?),
so total $600
I tried to find Korean online part seller that ship those parts to Canada.
but failed.
One online seller in Korea explained that Hyundai Motors does NOT allow
their authorized part dealers to ship parts to foreign countries.
I think, by doing that, Hyundai can protect and keep the expensive part price at dealers in worldwide.
If you have a friend in Korea who can go to Hyundai part shop and ship to your home,
you can get them for $60 ($20 parts + $30~40 Postal express shipping to you).
Here are part numbers.
94430 0W000 Fuel Level SENDER - LH side - main
94460 0W000 Fuel Level SENDER - RH side - sub
I don't believe the Kent Moore J48889 is right tool.
Instead of J48889, I was thinking Kent-Moore J-45722 could be the right one. http://hyundai.spx.com/pdf/Hyundai_Fall08.pdf
See page 7. "25. J-45722 Lock Ring Wrench SM = SANTA FE (2001-CURRENT(2008?))"
Been there,done that. Yes you can do it but its a royal pain and can be expensive. There are 2 sensors wired in series. One is attached to the fuel pump on drivers side and one,called the remote is on passenger side. This gives accurate readings if vehicle is not level. Remove rear seat. The dress covers over front seat bolts must be pryed out from the middle of either side and lifted;if you pry near the top it will break. I've read that you can get to the rear bolts without removing the cargo compartments but I pulled them and there is a reason-more later. Pry tabs at back of jack compartment and remove screws and lift out. Now remove cargo compartment. Get the screws at the rear or you'll snap off a big piece of plastic. Take out rear seat bolts and pull seat. Fold back rug flaps and see access ports to the senders. Disconnect plugs pry up floor plates that are held with putty. Don't trash the putty and it will reseal when you're done. I got the locking rings off with hammer and punch but I don't reccomend it. You'll kill yourself trying to put it back and it's a dangerous-spark hazard. There are 7 tabs on the ring so a spanner tool won't work well. Best bet is OTC 6599 for $44.64 from Amazon. The something-Kent brand that Hyundai calls for and Miller Special Tool 9340 That GM, Ford and Chrysler use are all the same tool. SPX owns all three companies but the latter two go for over 100 bucks. The fuel line to the pump and the hose connecting the fuel pump to the remote sensor(down in the gasoline) must come off to get the 2 units out. The fuel hose uses one of those push back collar locks.I cut a piece of stiff plastic, rolled it and pushed with the side of a pliers but the right tool is pretty cheap if you can figure out which size you need. Now with both units out you'll see a little brush type wiper that rides across a set of closely spaced contacts on the printed circuit board on each unit The wiper is part of the plastic clip that holds the float arm. The little brush wiper breaks and you get erratic or no contact and bad readings. Visually see which one is broken and check both with an ohm meter. A good one will go smoothly from 0 to full resistance (I think it was around 150 ohms but I'm not sure) as you move the float. Now that you know which one is bad you have to replace it. They don't sell the little clip, only the whole float assy. I needed the remote side. Each side is a dfferent part number. Hyundai dealers seem to charge what the want. I got quotes from $88 to $101 for the float assy. Assemble in reverse order, Next problem: The Hyundai seat bolts are self tapping and can leave bits of metal in the floor threads when removed. Some of the bolts will go in half way and jam. I had two bad ones. Don't force them. You'll ruin the bolts and thread in floor. Try the bolts before putting in seats. If you run into resistance get Snap-on rethreading tap size: mm10-1.25 (one of the rear bolts was mm12-1.125) and clean up the thread with plenty of oil or tapping fluid. The tool is actually Blue Point ,on Snap-on web site,free shipping and under 3 bucks. The ring tool with a breaker bar still needed a big piece of pipe to rotate to the locking detents.They tell you not to use an impact wrench. That's why I said to get the tool. The bolt problem is why you may have to pull the cargo compartment. The Hyundai service manual covers this repair and is available free on the Hyundai web site so register,pick a pass word and look it over before you start. Maybe after reading this you'll have second thoughts. Good luck.
Been there,done that. Yes you can do it but its a royal pain and can be expensive. There are 2 sensors wired in series. One is attached to the fuel pump on drivers side and one,called the remote is on passenger side. This gives accurate readings if vehicle is not level. Remove rear seat. The dress covers over front seat bolts must be pryed out from the middle of either side and lifted;if you pry near the top it will break. I've read that you can get to the rear bolts without removing the cargo compartments but I pulled them and there is a reason-more later. Pry tabs at back of jack compartment and remove screws and lift out. Now remove cargo compartment. Get the screws at the rear or you'll snap off a big piece of plastic. Take out rear seat bolts and pull seat. Fold back rug flaps and see access ports to the senders. Disconnect plugs pry up floor plates that are held with putty. Don't trash the putty and it will reseal when you're done. I got the locking rings off with hammer and punch but I don't reccomend it. You'll kill yourself trying to put it back and it's a dangerous-spark hazard. There are 7 tabs on the ring so a spanner tool won't work well. Best bet is OTC 6599 for $44.64 from Amazon. The something-Kent brand that Hyundai calls for and Miller Special Tool 9340 That GM, Ford and Chrysler use are all the same tool. SPX owns all three companies but the latter two go for over 100 bucks. The fuel line to the pump and the hose connecting the fuel pump to the remote sensor(down in the gasoline) must come off to get the 2 units out. The fuel hose uses one of those push back collar locks.I cut a piece of stiff plastic, rolled it and pushed with the side of a pliers but the right tool is pretty cheap if you can figure out which size you need. Now with both units out you'll see a little brush type wiper that rides across a set of closely spaced contacts on the printed circuit board on each unit The wiper is part of the plastic clip that holds the float arm. The little brush wiper breaks and you get erratic or no contact and bad readings. Visually see which one is broken and check both with an ohm meter. A good one will go smoothly from 0 to full resistance (I think it was around 150 ohms but I'm not sure) as you move the float. Now that you know which one is bad you have to replace it. They don't sell the little clip, only the whole float assy. I needed the remote side. Each side is a dfferent part number. Hyundai dealers seem to charge what the want. I got quotes from $88 to $101 for the float assy. Assemble in reverse order, Next problem: The Hyundai seat bolts are self tapping and can leave bits of metal in the floor threads when removed. Some of the bolts will go in half way and jam. I had two bad ones. Don't force them. You'll ruin the bolts and thread in floor. Try the bolts before putting in seats. If you run into resistance get Snap-on rethreading tap size: mm10-1.25 (one of the rear bolts was mm12-1.125) and clean up the thread with plenty of oil or tapping fluid. The tool is actually Blue Point ,on Snap-on web site,free shipping and under 3 bucks. The ring tool with a breaker bar still needed a big piece of pipe to rotate to the locking detents.They tell you not to use an impact wrench. That's why I said to get the tool. The bolt problem is why you may have to pull the cargo compartment. The Hyundai service manual covers this repair and is available free on the Hyundai web site so register,pick a pass word and look it over before you start. Maybe after reading this you'll have second thoughts. Good luck.
We just unbolt the seats and roll them onto the cargo floor.. then have at the carpet, covers and senders.. If in good mood,, maybe 1.5hr average time to do the pair..
If you go to the service manual and find the test for the fuel gauge you'll see a partial schematic showing the battery,ign. sw.,fuel gauge and both floats all IN SERIES and a return to gnd. on the instrument cluster. This is the way all cars have done it since the stone age.The fuel gauge is a milliameter and the floats are rheostats varying the current. They substitute a 3 to 4 watt/12V bulb for the fuel pump float and it lights and the gauge reads up scale if it is good. There are also connections to the PCM from either side of the remote sender. This plus a ground allows the PCM to make the comparitive readings across the two senders for several other functions and error detection. This is what you were referring to. I've been an electronic tech. for 50 yrs. I've worked in aero space,the recording industry,TV and audio repair and automotive repair. and I can read a schematic. I definately blew it with the rear seat and should have rolled it back as another poster suggested.
On another string on the same problem member sn202020 submitted some great photos that clearly show the damaged rheostat wipers mounted on the float arm that are the usual cause of these gauge problems He also shows a new improved wiper that is coming through on some float assemblies. I got another of the old fragile ones. If I'd known of the better one I would have raised a stink with Hyundai to try and get a good one. The old wipers are doomed to fail.
The reason there are two rheostats on each each sender and the two wipers are connected together as a jumper is this allows the resistance to be altered without having a flexable wire connected to the float arm, which would fail even faster than the wipers, which you would need if there was just one rheostat.
The lines for signal from the sensors to the PCM aren't in series, hence my comment about them being checked separately for a 'sanity check' and a possible code thrown if the discrepancy is too large. I have the schematics. The way they did it is pretty cute (from an electronics point of view) and NOT immediately obvious from the schematic until you get your head into it and spot the resistor back on the instrument cluster (on an entirely different page) that makes this circuit work. Rather than a readable schematic, it's definitely more of a wiring diagram, else they would have oriented things differently on the diagram, too.
What they've done is create a series voltage divider between the power source (instrument cluster with resistor there), the sub-sender, the main sender, and ground. Three resistors (one fixed) and two outputs. Tapping a signal at the 'top' (powered) end of the sub-sender and one between the sub and main senders gives them separate information on both, fed through an A to D converter somewhere in the PCM. Where I will agree is that the 'ground' side of the sub is what provides power to the main, so in that sense, they are 'series wired'.
The confusion in describing this as a 'series' circuit is some assumption that one could make that the outputs are wired in series, and sampled as a combined result - which is what I was attempting to avoid as a thought in anyone's mind.
So I think we can both agree that neither of us are playing with our friends in the street, yes?
Would like to say about the fuel sensors, that it seems to be a common problem since the dealer keeps the parts in stock. I called Hyundai Customer Service and lodge a complaint and got a case #. Would like for everyone to do the same so they will need to issue a recall and we can have it fixed or be reimbursed if you have had it fixed.
Going to bump this up, just happened to my car and guess what.. i just hit 60000 miles today. It started to happen 59950ish.. I actually video tape it while coming back from work. You think the dealer will still warranty the fuel level units?
Honestly, it will depend upon the mood of the Service Manager and the way the dealer usually handles customers in your situation. Bad hair day? Got a raise? Rooting for San Diego? Wife left him?
HOWEVER .. if you've got video that shows both the gauges going wonky AND a shot of the odometer at the same time (that would be brilliant), you've got a great case. The warranty talks about when a problem occurs with respect to mileage, not when you were able to roll it into the dealer to fix it. Get it in immediately, and if you get any grief and your video happens to show the odo at some point, show it to them.
Well with my luck, my wife's car has 79k miles and I am dropping it off at the dealer tomorrow night. Fuel gage not working and the engine light is on.
Hi all, I wanted to thank all Santa Fe owner that posted their Fuel Level Senders and the problems that they had with their vehicles. On Friday August 23rd I had the same problem with my 2009 and was unsure if my SUV Would be covered. My odometer was over 90,000km and like most of you, my fuel sensor was showing empty when I had fill up my tank full. I decided to take my SUV into the dealer here in Victoria BC. I dreaded the thought of bringing my vehicle in as I had bad services in the past and vow that I would not bring mine back. I even thought of going as far up island, but decided to call them up first and if the parts wasn't available, I would go the distance.
To my surprise, Victoria Hyundai dealer not only covered for both fuel senders, labour was included. I also pointed out the recall for the stop lamp switch replacement - brake pedal. 3 hours later, all was done and my SUV even had a wash.... At no charge! I was so relief.
Canadian Tire quoted me $800 for the parts, plus labour which would have been a couple of hundreds plus tax, and I was looking at least $1,200. This happened right before I go on vacation. I am so glad we have the 5 year warranty. Otherwise I would have been out of pocket and my family vacation would have been cancelled. Whew!
I just got of the phone with the Hyundai part dept...
2 sensors each @ $139.95
2 O-rings each @ 23:88
Total: $344.05 for the parts ONLY.
They won't even tell me the part #'s over the phone...I have to go down there to pick up this quote, which will have the part #'s on it.
Needless to say, I will be looking around for other suppliers. I already ordered the tool from Amazon for $46. That seemed steep too at the time but all in all it is now the best deal in all of this. Told my wife to just set the trip odometer to zero when you fill up and fill up again around 500 km. I don't have a CEL light yet so have a bit of time to source cheaper parts.
The tool vendor supplies tools of special design to most of the different manufacture dealerships..
Parts numbers for senders is 94430-0W000 and 94460-0W000 (all over the Santa Fe forum) Just need to drive across the border on a "visit the USA" thing and hit a dealer close to the border in USA
Use dry clean cloth to wipe rings of dirt and gravel.. use clean towel to wipe gravel and trash from top surface of tank where green ring resides.. I take soapy water mix in spray bottle and spray top of module and ring area to float the dirt, then blow off with hi-volume blow gun initially so it not so dirty to work, and finish off with the ring wipe and tank wipe to get rid of gravel so as to not mash into the ring and cause EVAP leak down the road.. Had Elantra with EVAP leak, green ring all pock marked with gravel, somebody been in there and mash all kind of gravel in the rubber ring
New here and I'm havering the same fuel gauge problems now!!! I read that maybe a can of sea foam might clean the contacts on the senders.. If I'm lucky,but I have a feeling that I'm gonna be replacing both senders......
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