Radiator fan always on - Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum
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post #1 of 49 (permalink) Old 02-16-2016, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
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Radiator fan always on

My sister-in-law has an '07 Amica CDX 1.1l Auto that we bought over a year ago and since we got it, the cooling fan won't turn off, as soon as you turn the engine on (no matter the temperature) the fan comes on and stays on until you switch the car off.

There's an OBD code of P0118 - Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input, we were told by some mechanic to replace the Engine Coolant Temp sensor which we did with a brand new OEM thermostat inc. the sensor, no dice. If I start the engine and plug in my OBD scanner, clear the codes, the check engine light goes off and the fan switches off for a second then turns back on, the check engine light will come back within 20 minutes.

It's MOT time and it reminded me that I never looked for a solution as it was just a car to go round the corner to school and back (lazy kids), therefore not really worth spending money to fix. However, it seems to be affecting the fuel economy as she's averaging something like 20-25mpg when it's supposed to be closer to 35mpg (Urban).

So does anyone have any ideas?

There's also a problem with the interior light, it won't turn on when the doors are opened, we have to switch it to the on position for it to work. I remember poking that springy button that detects when the door is shut but no reaction, the open door warning light works though. If someone knows how to fix that, it would be ridding of another annoyance, but not as important as fixing the fan issue.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 49 (permalink) Old 02-16-2016, 06:22 PM
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Bad coolant sensor or the wiring. Try just unplugging the sensor and plugging it back in again.

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post #3 of 49 (permalink) Old 02-16-2016, 09:19 PM
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Unlikely to be a faulty sensor if you've already replaced it, so I'd check the sensor wiring...diagram below.

I think it's a 4 terminal ECT sensor on the 1100 engines. The upper two terminals are for the gauge on the instrument cluster and it's the lower two that control the fans. With the ignition switched on, check the voltages on the lower two terminals as shown.

If your OBD scan tool allows you to view engine sensor data, take a look at the coolant temperature data display (sensor reconnected). If the temperature shown is much higher than it should be that suggests the signal wire has shorted to ground. If the temp is much lower than it should be that means the signal wire or sensor ground wire is open circuit. Either of the two faults will cause the fans to run constantly.

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post #4 of 49 (permalink) Old 02-17-2016, 07:10 AM Thread Starter
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Bad coolant sensor or the wiring. Try just unplugging the sensor and plugging it back in again.
I believe the garage who fitted the ECT sensor tried this with no success, but the next time I get a chance I'll try it out, thanks.

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I think it's a 4 terminal ECT sensor on the 1100 engines. The upper two terminals are for the gauge on the instrument cluster and it's the lower two that control the fans. With the ignition switched on, check the voltages on the lower two terminals as shown.

If your OBD scan tool allows you to view engine sensor data, take a look at the coolant temperature data display (sensor reconnected). If the temperature shown is much higher than it should be that suggests the signal wire has shorted to ground. If the temp is much lower than it should be that means the signal wire or sensor ground wire is open circuit. Either of the two faults will cause the fans to run constantly.

Regards.

Scottie.
The ECT sensor we have has a 3 pin connector (I'd post a link to one but I haven't been a member long enough).

I have no idea how to use a multi meter in this case (no idea how to choose the meter settings either) so instructions would be extra appreciated.

Next time I get my hands on the car (which could be weeks), I'll have a look see on the OBD for temp readings.

Thank you both for your help, it's much appreciated.

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post #5 of 49 (permalink) Old 02-17-2016, 12:13 PM
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Here is a link to a multimeter tutorial on you tube. That will show you how to set your meter to take DC voltage measurements :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zb7WHaL_dz8

There are two different styles of 3 terminal ECT sensor used on Hyundai engines. I assume your engine will use the type with the terminals in a line across the connector.

On that type of sensor the terminals that control the fans are on the outer two terminals and the center is the signal for the temp gauge on the cluster. The voltage test is basically the same as shown above. First connect the black meter probe to battery negative and touch the red probe to each of the outside terminals and see what voltages you get. The signal terminal should have approx 5V and the other should have close to zero volts. Next connect the red probe to battery positive and touch the black probe to the two outside terminals. This time the signal terminal should show approx 7V (12 - 5 = 7), and the ground terminal should show 12V. If the voltages on one of the terminals is incorrect that will tell you which of the wires is causing the problem.

When probing connectors, don't jam the probe into the terminals. Just lightly touch the probe onto them so as not to splay out the terminal. And don't forget to have the ignition on while testing.
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post #6 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-22-2016, 02:05 PM Thread Starter
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Hello, managed to plug an OBD scanner into it and check the Engine Coolant Sensor data, it constantly shows -40c. I also noticed that the temp gauge on the dash never gets to the mid point, it stays around the first half of the cold section.

Completely forgot to get a multi meter whilst I had it so have yet to test that side of things.

I also checked the oil dipstick and there were bits on it, kind of white looking and a tiny bit frothy, is this because the engine is never getting to temp?
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post #7 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-22-2016, 02:10 PM
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Hello, managed to plug an OBD scanner into it and check the Engine Coolant Sensor data, it constantly shows -40c. I also noticed that the temp gauge on the dash never gets to the mid point, it stays around the first half of the cold section.

Completely forgot to get a multi meter whilst I had it so have yet to test that side of things.

I also checked the oil dipstick and there were bits on it, kind of white looking and a tiny bit frothy, is this because the engine is never getting to temp?
Open the oil cap and look at the bottom of it. If there's something on it that looks the same, like thick milk or thin sour cream, you gots issues...

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post #8 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-22-2016, 02:16 PM
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Temp sender is bad, -40c is the low value for it in the ECU.

ECT resistance values
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post #9 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-22-2016, 04:59 PM
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Temp sender is bad
Two faulty sensors? That would seem highly unlikely to me...but you never know.
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post #10 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-22-2016, 05:00 PM
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It could be found out with an ohm meter rather easily.

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