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post #21 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-23-2016, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
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Like I said above, my guess is one of the sensor wires is open circuit. The terminal your probing is the sensor ground. With the black meter probe on the battery negative and the red touching the opposite outer terminal on the harness connector you shold get approx 5V on the meter. If you don't have anything the wire leading back to the PCM is open. The good news is, with that wire open you can't have damaged the PCM by probing it with the meter set to Ohms.



A paper clip would be ideal for linking the connector terminals. The temperature data display would show a very high temperature when the pins are linked...if the wiring is good. If one of the wires is open, linking the terminals wont make any difference. Linking the terminals is a much easier/faster way to confirm a sensor or wiring fault than faffing about with an Ohmmeter, IMHO.

If the engine wont crank, have a helper hold the key in the start position then remove the START relay from the engine fusebox and check the voltages on the 4 terminals . Two terminals should have 12V and two should have grounds. If one of the voltages is incorrect the engine wont crank.

Scottie.

Just tried the paper clip and my OBD is still saying the ECT sensor is at -40c.

In regards to testing the Start relay terminals, do I do the same thing and have the negative probe on the negative terminal of the battery and touch each relay terminal with the positive probe then the other way around?
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post #22 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-23-2016, 02:15 PM
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Just tried the paper clip and my OBD is still saying the ECT sensor is at -40c.
Which confirms that the wiring is faulty an not the sensor.

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In regards to testing the Start relay terminals, do I do the same thing and have the negative probe on the negative terminal of the battery and touch each relay terminal with the positive probe then the other way around?
Yes and you should have two terminals showing 12V with the meter one way round then a different two with 12V when it's reversed.
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post #23 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-23-2016, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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Which confirms that the wiring is faulty an not the sensor.


Yes and you should have two terminals showing 12V with the meter one way round then a different two with 12V when it's reversed.
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post #24 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-23-2016, 03:21 PM
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The voltages all look OK, so next link the two terminals nearest the blue relay in the photo with a length of wire. I wouldn't use the paper clip for this one...it might get rather hot. Make sure the gearbox is in neutral before linking the terminals too, just in case the engine does crank over.
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post #25 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-23-2016, 03:45 PM Thread Starter
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The voltages all look OK, so next link the two terminals nearest the blue relay in the photo with a length of wire. I wouldn't use the paper clip for this one...it might get rather hot. Make sure the gearbox is in neutral before linking the terminals too, just in case the engine does crank over.
I took one of three copper wires out of a kettle lead and connected as you said, still won't start.
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post #26 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-23-2016, 04:52 PM
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It's a little odd that this non start fault happened just after you had some connectors unplugged but your voltages on the relay socket suggest everything is connected.

You did link the two terminals shown on the diagram below? Was there any spark when you inserted the wire? Did the starter click or make any sound?
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post #27 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-23-2016, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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It's a little odd that this non start fault happened just after you had some connectors unplugged but your voltages on the relay socket suggest everything is connected.

You did link the two terminals shown on the diagram below? Was there any spark when you inserted the wire? Did the starter click or make any sound?
I did indeed. I didn't notice any spark when putting it in. I did notice a bit of weird noise after the key was turned then turned off but it wasn't clicking, kind of like a whirring.
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post #28 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-23-2016, 05:59 PM
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OK, the relay bypass didn't make it crank so the fault is defo the wiring on the engine, or the starter itself has failed.

The first thing I'd suggest is you remove the solenoid control wire from the starter motor and just reconnect it again. Sometimes that will clean the terminal and get the engine starting again (Solenoid control is the thin wire with spade terminal). Remember to refit the START relay too. It wont crank without that

If that doesn't work you'd need to do some voltage tests on the starter wiring to try and identify where the fault lies. And you'll need someone to turn the key for you while you read the voltages.

First connect the voltmeter across the two battery terminals and check the voltage while the key is held in the start position. If the starter isn't cranking the engine the voltage should stay around 12V.

Next, connect the meter between battery negative and a clean metal part of the engine block. Measure the voltage with the key held in the start position and make sure it's < 0.5V

Finally, connect the meter between the battery positive terminal and the solenoid control terminal at the starter motor. Leave the wire connected to the terminal and touch the meter probe onto the solder pad where the terminal attaches to the solenoid cap. Measure the voltage with the key in the start position. Again, the voltage should be < 0.5V.

If your voltages are correct that suggests the starter has failed....what a coincidence that would be.
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post #29 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-23-2016, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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OK, the relay bypass didn't make it crank so the fault is defo the wiring on the engine, or the starter itself has failed.

The first thing I'd suggest is you remove the solenoid control wire from the starter motor and just reconnect it again. Sometimes that will clean the terminal and get the engine starting again (Solenoid control is the thin wire with spade terminal). Remember to refit the START relay too. It wont crank without that

If that doesn't work you'd need to do some voltage tests on the starter wiring to try and identify where the fault lies. And you'll need someone to turn the key for you while you read the voltages.

First connect the voltmeter across the two battery terminals and check the voltage while the key is held in the start position. If the starter isn't cranking the engine the voltage should stay around 12V.

Next, connect the meter between battery negative and a clean metal part of the engine block. Measure the voltage with the key held in the start position and make sure it's < 0.5V

Finally, connect the meter between the battery positive terminal and the solenoid control terminal at the starter motor. Leave the wire connected to the terminal and touch the meter probe onto the solder pad where the terminal attaches to the solenoid cap. Measure the voltage with the key in the start position. Again, the voltage should be < 0.5V.

If your voltages are correct that suggests the starter has failed....what a coincidence that would be.
I'll have a crack at this tomorrow, I get my car back from the bodyshop as well so I should be able to go fishing for parts if necessary. Although from past quotes, getting stuff from a dealership is going to be very pricey and there aren't any breaker yard Amica's near me.

Also, I doubt it's relevant but I just checked that everything inside the car works (windows, stereo, fan, lights) and it does. I also removed the central locking chip from within the key. If I put the key in and turn it, the yellow light of a car with a key in it doesn't illuminate, where as if I put the chip near the key hole as I turn the key, it does illuminate, so I guess my immobiliser is working?

Last edited by JayR87; 03-23-2016 at 06:44 PM.
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post #30 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-23-2016, 07:06 PM
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so I guess my immobiliser is working?
Yes, it sounds like it and it wouldn't stop the engine from cranking over anyway.
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