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post #11 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-22-2016, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by JayR87 View Post
I also checked the oil dipstick and there were bits on it, kind of white looking and a tiny bit frothy, is this because the engine is never getting to temp?
Possibly. If the engine isn't getting fully up to temperature the moisture in the oil wont evaporate off so you can end up with a milky residue on the dipstick. It's made worse it the car is only used for short journeys too.
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post #12 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-22-2016, 06:17 PM
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It could be found out with an ohm meter rather easily.
It could be found out even more easily by simply linking the two sensor terminals on the connector together and looking at the data pid on the scan tool.

Personally though, I think one of the sensor wires being open would be more likely than having two open sensors.
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post #13 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-23-2016, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
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Just got a cheapo multi meter from Maplin. The only time I get a reading above 0 is 12v when the positive cable is touching the battery and the negative cable one of the outer terminals.

Multimeter is set to 20v.

Am I doing something wrong or is the temp sensor wiring broken?

Also how would I go about testing the sensor itself? What ohm setting do I need to use and do I just touch the outer pins with the posi and negative cables?

See attached pics.

Edit: "It could be found out even more easily by simply linking the two sensor terminals on the connector together and looking at the data pid on the scan tool."

Can I just stick each end of a paper clip to the outer terminals on the wiring harness side to do that? If so what should be normal to see in the Engine Coolant Sensor readout on the OBD tool?

Thanks.
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post #14 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-23-2016, 10:14 AM
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With the ohm meter set at Kohms, if it is not auto ranging, connect it to two terminals on the actual sensor. Compare it to the table in post 8 and your local ambient temperature if the motor is cold.

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post #15 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-23-2016, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Red Raspberry View Post
With the ohm meter set at Kohms, if it is not auto ranging, connect it to two terminals on the actual sensor. Compare it to the table in post 8 and your local ambient temperature if the motor is cold.
I got a reading of around 5.8. So I believe the sensor is ok.

However, I now have a major problem, the car won't start, it doesn't even turn over. All the relays work in the engine bay fusebox and all the fuses are still intact. The only thing I did in order to get more access was unplug the spark plugs and a couple of connectors (one green triangle and the other a square orange). Obviously they were reconnected and the although I can't be 100% sure I got the spark plug wires in the right place, they all have a specific length and I'm pretty sure they are correct. I will attach a photo of what they look like

When I went to check the reading on the wiring harness again I forgot to switch it back from Ohms to 20v. Could that have done any damage?

I've disconnected the battery for now, hoping that giving it 10 mins will work a miracle.

Help please!
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post #16 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-23-2016, 10:50 AM
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Did you check your fuses? Hook the battery back up. On the fuses you can see the two small holes where you can probe both sides of them. You should have 12v on both sides with the key on.

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post #17 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-23-2016, 11:43 AM Thread Starter
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Did you check your fuses? Hook the battery back up. On the fuses you can see the two small holes where you can probe both sides of them. You should have 12v on both sides with the key on.
Just checked them all and they read 0 as I believe they should.

When I turn the key, I can hear the fuel pump prime and the click of the ignition relay but nothing happens after that. Have I done something to the immobilizer? Although from what I remember usually an immobilizer problem will still allow the engine to turn over, just not start.

The yellow light of a car with a key symbol stays lit when the ignition is on if that means anything, but I can still lock and unlock the car using the fob.

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post #18 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-23-2016, 12:18 PM
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If you use ohms then 0 is good or a very low number. If using volts then you have to touch one probe to ground and the other to the fuse. They should all have 12v on both post when the key is on to ground.

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post #19 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-23-2016, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
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If you use ohms then 0 is good or a very low number. If using volts then you have to touch one probe to ground and the other to the fuse. They should all have 12v on both post when the key is on to ground.
Sorry just realised I was using someone elses test method of using ohms.

I've just checked and I get 12v on all the engine bay blade fuses inc. the T/LP RH 10A and T/LP LH 10A, when the tail lights are on. I assume I can skip the footwell fuses as they're usually accessories? I already tested them with the ohms method and they all read 0.

I'm not sure how I would go about testing the large 30a/50a fuses that don't have tabs. Would I just test the terminals inside the fuse box directly or am I asking to be electricuted? I already tested the large fuses using the ohms method and got 0 values so I assume they're ok.

I've also noticed I can't hear the fuel pump priming anymore, unless there's a limit to how many times it can do it within a certain timeframe.

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post #20 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-23-2016, 01:25 PM
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Am I doing something wrong or is the temp sensor wiring broken?
Like I said above, my guess is one of the sensor wires is open circuit. The terminal your probing is the sensor ground. With the black meter probe on the battery negative and the red touching the opposite outer terminal on the harness connector you shold get approx 5V on the meter. If you don't have anything the wire leading back to the PCM is open. The good news is, with that wire open you can't have damaged the PCM by probing it with the meter set to Ohms.


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"It could be found out even more easily by simply linking the two sensor terminals on the connector together and looking at the data pid on the scan tool."

Can I just stick each end of a paper clip to the outer terminals on the wiring harness side to do that? If so what should be normal to see in the Engine Coolant Sensor readout on the OBD tool?
A paper clip would be ideal for linking the connector terminals. The temperature data display would show a very high temperature when the pins are linked...if the wiring is good. If one of the wires is open, linking the terminals wont make any difference. Linking the terminals is a much easier/faster way to confirm a sensor or wiring fault than faffing about with an Ohmmeter, IMHO.

If the engine wont crank, have a helper hold the key in the start position then remove the START relay from the engine fusebox and check the voltages on the 4 terminals . Two terminals should have 12V and two should have grounds. If one of the voltages is incorrect the engine wont crank.

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