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Fumoto vs EZ Oil Drain valve

20K views 99 replies 23 participants last post by  Drewd 
#1 ·
1. I found 4 jugs of 5w-30 Pennzoil Plantinum in the garage.
2. I found all the receipts.
3. With car parked in the garage I can reach the oil drain plug and oil filter. Hyundai in their wisdom made it so nothing needs to be removed.
4. After installing a Fumoto or EZ Drain valve I am confident I can just change the oil reaching under the car. Like easy oil change with little mess.

So help me pick the proper valve. Fumoto is tried and true. I see an F-106 will work.

EZ Drain valve has some nice features like padded lever (the Fumuto lever always cut into my finger). It has extensions you can buy that look easier to use when hooking up a hose for less mess. But, I don't know if EZ Drain is as reliable as Fumoto? I emailed EZ Drain to see what they say.

And yes, I am crazy...Oil crazy. Too many years hanging around BITOG has affected my brain. It is called the oil wasting disease or Mad BITOG Disease.

Actually, I need to clean the garage of extra oil and using the oil is an easy solution.
 
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#2 ·
EZ Drain responded to my email already:

Thank you for contacting us.

Yes the EZ-106 has the same 14mm-1.5 thread as on the Fumoto F-106. It should work.

Here's why people choose EZ over buying Fumoto. See link below:

WHY EZ OIL DRAIN VALVE? - EZ OIL DRAIN VALVES- THE EASIEST OIL CHANGE!

We have several new features such as the optional hose ends. Our valves have a removable/interchangeable option where you can attach either Straight or L-Shaped hose ends. Great for connecting a hose and draining oil!
Another is the Viton O-ring seal that we use. Fumoto uses gaskets which can crack or become lost. Our Viton O-ring is embedded into the flange of the valve. This creates a perfect seal against the oil pan.

Please let me know if you have any questions. Here's the link to the EZ-106 valve too.

EZ-106 [Thread size : 14mm-1.5]
 
#3 ·
on our 2016, i got no problem with the drain. i got BIG problem with the filter. that sucker aint coming off unless the bf splash shield comes off. and that bf splash shield aint coming off unless i can get the front up on jackstands. so, for 54 bucks, i just take the car to the shop, then go home and take a nap. no messy floor, no dispose of old oil, and i got a nice printed receipt for my records.
 
#5 ·
This is a beautiful picture. Very easy to get to the filter as you can see. I guess this is more of a diversion so I am getting some enjoyment in making this car more DYI friendly. More importantly I will save money. I can keep good records.
You have problems!.....:grin2: :wink:

You also know the oil that you want was actually put in and the job was done right. I have the Fumoto valve,I am curious as to how the gasket can become "lost". Anyway,if you get the EZ valve, do share your thoughts on it.
 
#8 ·
I used a Fumoto valve about 13 years on my last car. It almost looks like the opening of the EZ valve is a little bigger which attracted me to it.

Speaking of inventions. This was my idea, sort of. Injured shoulder over 20 years ago. Raking leafs with one arm. Solution. Put cardboard funnel in trash can so I could fill 100 trash cans a year. The neighbor admittedly took my idea and made this device which is still sold at local hardware stores. The first one he made looked exactly like mine:
 

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#9 · (Edited)
I get mine at the dealer with a coupon: $28.99. Minus about $9 in voucher rewards. 5w-20 Valvoline, filter, fluid top-offs, if needed...and they never need it. I won't let them check my tire air pressures. That's MY job. I have them all set at 36psi, cold. Within a minute/minute and a half of driving, they start joining up to all reach 37, then 38, and so forth. You don't want to know what I put myself thru to achieve that nonsense.

Oh, and dealer has all the records on his system database.
 

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#11 ·
It took more than two hours to get an oil change. Twenty Five minutes to dealership. Fifteen minutes for them to check in car. One Hour to change oil, wash car, and take about 3 lbs pressure out of my tires (which I had to put back in). Twenty Five Minutes home.

Once I get this system set up I come home from work. Put oil pan under car. Flip valve open. Go inside. Pet cats. Read email. Put on old clothes. Close valve. Remove filter. Install filter. Add oil. Spill oil on garage floor pouring it in recycle container. Clean up with GOOP. Update My Hyundai and maintenance log.

They would be rotating my tires if dealership did next oil change. I think I can do that also until I buy tires from a shop that includes rotation.
 
#12 ·
Bought a touch up paint pen. Previous oil changes. Something else that I can't remember. You can sign up for this nonsense on the Hyundai website. Or google hyundai rewards.
 
#13 ·
Heh, oil changes every four months no matter the mileage (when I was in the hospital there was probably an additional 1,000 miles on the odometer but it got changed because it was due) are 100% free for as long as I own the vehicle. All fluids topped off if they need it and it's only been washer fluid so far. Tires set to 35 psi AFTER the oil change (customer orders) so they've had at least a little time to cool down. The factory recommended 30 psi is ridiculous, it's like riding on four balloon animals especially around corners.

One of these days I should see what the max pressure the tires can take, I've never bothered to read the sidewall it's a painful bend but 35 psi stiffens things up pretty good.
 
#18 ·
That would be nice. I had a Nissan that had free oil changes. I only needed to provide the filter. If it is free, it is for me.

They changed things on the 2017 Elantra. Recommneded is 36 lbs all around. I like to run 38.
 
#15 ·
OkieRich,

Thanks for the idea about rotation. I feel uncomfortable for trying to get something for nothing. Most tire shops I have used in this area are not that great, plus I have a torque wrench and know how to use it. I think I would just use my spare tire to help till I rotate the proper tire in place.
 
#21 ·
I just saw this thread.

Let us know how you like the EZ-106.

I've used the Fumoto in the past - I believe it has a lifetime warranty also. Fumoto also has a new F106SX which is banjo bolt based. I installed it, but haven't done the first change yet.

Other comparison thoughts between the EX-106 and the Fumoto:

EZ is probably slightly (a couple millimeters) longer than the Fumoto valve.

EZ is nickel or chrome plated and Fumoto is brass. I wondered a bit about dissimilar metal corrosion, but I assume they researched that.

EZ has the rubber cushion on the lever. I never found the Fumoto lever hard to turn.

We have several new features such as the optional hose ends. Our valves have a removable/interchangeable option where you can attach either Straight or L-Shaped hose ends. Great for connecting a hose and draining oil!
Not as great a feature as they make it out to be. It gives them economy of scale in that they make the same base valve with different adapters, but the valve and adapters cost more than Fumoto.

Typically Fumoto has straight or L-shaped valves also.

The main advantage to the EZ setup is that - in theory, if Car A needed a straight end and CAR B needed an L-Shaped, you could remove the EZ valve when you sold Car A and only need to buy a new hose end.

Another possible advantage is for limited clearance, you don't have to have the hose end attached permanently, but it isn't much different from using an S Fumoto valve and their nylon hose adapter.

Another is the Viton O-ring seal that we use. Fumoto uses gaskets which can crack or become lost. Our Viton O-ring is embedded into the flange of the valve. This creates a perfect seal against the oil pan.
More of a marketing gimmick IMHO. Not sure how a Fumoto gasket could crack or become lost. (I think they mean you could lose the gasket or forget to install it, but the Viton Ring could fall out prior to installation also, but probably less likely.). Never had a problem with sealing with the Fumoto gasket. An advantage to Fumoto is you can use two gaskets if you need to adjust the orientation of the valve, but I haven't bothered with that. (In reality, you could add a gasket to the EZ and do the same thing, but it kinda defeats the advantage of the Viton ring.)

To me, it came down to:

- I wanted the F106SX configuration since my oil drain is forward and EZ doesn't offer that (yet ...)
- EZ was slightly more expensive.
- I knew and trusted Fumoto.
 
#35 ·
I just saw this thread.

Let us know how you like the EZ-106.

I've used the Fumoto in the past - I believe it has a lifetime warranty also. Fumoto also has a new F106SX which is banjo bolt based. I installed it, but haven't done the first change yet.
Eh, it's time to get into the game now. >gets off the bench, ready to play< You're in for a small surprise, amigo. Review the picture for a moment. Do you see the flaw in the Fumoto F106SX? Hint- it's the bolt. See it now? Answer will be posted below the picture.



The drainage holes in the Fumoto F106SX bolt may still leave a bit of oil left behind in the oil pan (depending on the angle of the plug) once an oil change is preformed. Reason>> bolt drainage hole alignment with spout and the way it aligns with the banjo. Considering these factors, the tiny drainage holes in the bolt and the spout opening, it's going to take a bit longer to preform the oil change as well.
 
#22 ·
Tiger-Heli,

The EZ valve was $22.16 with tax shipped from Amazon. Was a little cheaper than the Fumoto valve. I did not want extensions to put a hose. That would complicate things. I need simple.

It is brass where is counts:

TECHNICAL SPECS - EZ Oil Drain Valve- The Easiest Oil Change!

I did have problems with my Fumoto valve leaking. Not the fault of Fumoto. I had a used engine installed. They gave me the valve, but not the washer. Used a Toyota drain plug washer. It never lined up as nice, but did not leak.

It looks like the EZ Valve is a little bit wider where it drains. That was the main reason I bought it.

Regarding records at the dealership I agree. It would be nice. I found things getting confusing since going to my Hyundai. It says I need to change my oil at 3,750 miles, even though I changed at 2,241. The dealership wants me to go their every 3-month and sell their engines forever warranty which means I have to rotate tires there forever, change transmission fluid and antifreeze every 30k there, besides all the oil changes no later than 4,750 miles done there. Manual says antifreeze at 120k. Severe service transmission fluid at 60k. If I get tires somewhere else I want to take advantage of the free balance and rotation.

My brain was getting overheated. I want to preserve the brain cells I have left. So, I am taking responsibility for record keeping and making sure everything is done as it needs to be done. I guess I am not ready to let go of oil changes yet since it will not be bad with this set up.
 
#23 ·
The EZ valve was $22.16 with tax shipped from Amazon. Was a little cheaper than the Fumoto valve.
Okay, it might be a cheaper than Fumoto if you use it without a hose.

I did not want extensions to put a hose. That would complicate things. I need simple.
Not really ...

https://www.walmart.com/ip/FloTool-Heavy-Duty-Oil-Lube-and-Drain-Pan-7qt/16911596

https://www.walmart.com/ip/16qt-Oil-Drain-Container/44580714

http://www.doubledutycontainer.com/

Top pan doesn't need a hose, but then you have to empty and clean the pan. With the bottom two pans, you just run the vinyl tube from the drain valve to the opening on the drain pan. Then all you have to do is scoop the oil from the filter into the pan opening, and you can have the pan under the filter and don't need two pans.

It is brass where is counts:
The threads are still nickel-plated brass, but I think nickel is pretty corrosion resistant with steel or aluminum pans.

Used a Toyota drain plug washer. It never lined up as nice, but did not leak.
Pretty sure Fumoto would have sent you a free washer, but you might not have wanted to wait. I haven't had issues with a Fumoto valve leaking with their supplied fiber washer or equivalent.

It looks like the EZ Valve is a little bit wider where it drains. That was the main reason I bought it.
I'd like to hear drain rate comparisons.

The dealership wants me to go their every 3-month and sell their engines forever warranty which means I have to
I'm confused. Did you decide to take your chances without the forever warranty (good choice), or did you install an EZ valve so the dealer will have less trouble changing your oil?

If I get tires somewhere else I want to take advantage of the free balance and rotation.
As mentioned, most tire shops will rotate tires for free. If you feel guilty about that, they will sell you a lifetime balance for $15-$20 per tire and then they rotate and balance them for free.
 
#24 ·
Interesting thread, thanks for the read!

I just bought the Fumoto valves for our Elantra and 2005 Impala. I didn't really look at anything other than price, and the drain valve + nipple + hose was cheaper with Fumoto than EZ. The nipple and drain hose is rather important to me because I live in an apartment and can simply drain the old oil straight into the jug I poured it from, and take the jug full of oil to any auto store and they will dispose of it for free. No leaks, no hassle (at least in theory!).
 
#26 ·
I've changed oil on the 2002 Focus and the 2011 MKS with a hose and without jacking the car up, but whatever works for you.

(As you said, an advantage with the EZ valve is if you find you want the hose adapter, you can buy that separately.)

On the tire shops - it can be hard to find good ones, but most people don't have their own spin balancers, etc.

I changed struts on a 1986 Acura Integra (no springs) in an apartment parking lots. Most of them have rules on repairs in a parking lot. Oil changes are maintenance. (And even the ones forbidding repairs usually mean they don't want you leaving the car on blocks for 3 weeks while you wait for parts. If you tear it down and put it back in a day, they usually don't mind.
 
#27 ·
Tiger-Heli,

It seems they keep making cars lower to the ground. I remember learning to change oil in the driveway. It was a gravel driveway. We spread the used oil on the driveway keep the dust down. I am light years ahead of that even if I do not use a hose.

I just got an eerie email from Hyundai Assurance Car Care giving me a $10 off voucher for Parts or Service at the dealership where I bought my car. Expires in December. Do they read these forums?
 
#28 ·
I bought an EZ valve for my 2013 SFS - oil pan threads seemed too lighweight in construction to last numerous oil changes, EZ was a couple bucks cheaper than fumoto and it works just fine.
 
#31 ·
Vovoid,

My SE has stock steelies and hubcaps (just the way I wanted it). My last car had beautiful 15" stock aluminum rims. The only thing is the leaked and had to go to the tire shop too many times to address that problem. No more fancy rims for me. I ended up putting 14" steel junkyard rims on it and was much happier.

I agree with timing belts. I am a chain kinda guy. One reason for getting the Elantra.

My ideal car is one that is safe, easy to maintain, good on and gas, and dependable. Hopefully, the Elantra will be all those long term.
 
#32 ·
Yep, I think NDSE and I are likely exceptions on this forum, but ...

My 2002 Focus had factory painted aluminum rims with plastic center caps. Looked good new, but the rims got stone chips and the center caps discolored. Largely I got the Accent for 14's over 16's, but I don't mind the steel wheels and hubcaps. If I damage an aluminum rim, it is a couple hundred dollars. If I damage a hubcap, it is probably $25-40 at the dealer, or if I want to change the look up, I can get a set for $25-$40 for all four (but they won't be retained by the lug nuts - unless maybe Civic or Toyota hubcaps fit ...)
 
#33 ·
Yep, I think NDSE and I are likely exceptions on this forum, but .../QUOTE]

I guess it is my growing up in simpler times and my monastic background. Bling is not important to me. What is most important is not external.

Function of my car comes first, looks second. The Elantra is not bad on both counts.
 
#34 ·
Today I went to the dealership with the $10 off service or parts coupon. I asked the parts guy for 4 filters. He said he could give them to me for $5.00 each. The total was $10.76. He also went over the advantage of the OEM filter having a check valve, etc. For me the advantage is they were priced right and built like a tank. They reduce warranty rejection concerns.

Just ordered CTA Tools A257 oil filter wrench from JB Tool Sales Ebay store. It reminded me of the first SK Socket set I bought at Napa when I was 16. I was tasked with working on the family vehicles. Now I have come full circle. This may be the last tool I buy to work on vehicles.
 
#36 ·
He also went over the advantage of the OEM filter having a check valve, etc.
Where do they get this BS ???

Every automotive oil filter has a check valve. The OEM does has a silicone anti-drainback valve, which is good, but any mid grade filter will have that ...

The drainage holes in the Fumoto F106SX bolt may still leave a bit of oil left behind in the oil pan (depending on the angle of the plug) once an oil change is preformed. Reason>> bolt drainage hole alignment with spout and the way it aligns with the banjo. Considering these factors, the tiny drainage holes in the bolt and the spout opening, it's going to take a bit longer to preform the oil change as well.
Not sure which issues you are talking about ...

- The bolt protrudes into the pan and will leave SOME oil in the pan. It only protrudes a couple of threads and people who have removed the valve after an oil drain said they only got a few ounces of additional oil out - and the same argument applies to the Fumoto SX, standard Fumoto, EZ-Oil, SureDrain, etc.

- The drain holes in the bolt are below the pan, so oil there is not part of the engine. Yes, there could be 1/2 ounce of oil in the bolt, and 1/8-ounce or so of oil in the bolt below the drain hole that won't drain out. I'm okay with that (less oil left behind than when the dealer puts the bolt back in after 4-5 minutes with oil still flowing).

- The drain holes are smaller than the standard Fumoto, but there are more of them. I don't see flow rated being affected (should know next week). I considered the restriction - i.e. small bits of gravel might get stuck that would drain with the standard valve, but if I have gravel in the engine that the oil filter isn't catching, I've got bigger issues than the drain valve.
 
#41 ·
If we are talking hypotheticals, the Fram PH orange can or Motorcraft can probably be had for $2.69 and probably has better filtration specs than the OEM filter.

We both have different opinions on this and it's been debated in other threads, so I don't want to dwell on it.

Let us know how you like the EZ Flow. I'll probably do the first oil drain with the Fumoto SX next week some time.
 
#55 ·
If we are talking hypotheticals, the Fram PH orange can or Motorcraft can probably be had for $2.69 and probably has better filtration specs than the OEM filter.
I'm on my tablet right now and it's suffering from serious lag so I can't search the forums. But somewhere there's an entire thread where a user did cutdowns of and comparisons to the OEM filter. The results. Quality, density of media matter, cardboard gaskets. The results were quite interesting. As I get free oil changes every four months (sometimes I bet it's hard to tell the old from the new) I'm fine with the OEM filters and the bulk oil. Definitely don't need synthetic here.
 
#43 ·
Interesting hypothetical, but I'm not buying it for two reasons:

- Okay, the bolt is torqued to 30 ft-lbs or 18 ft-lbs if I remember correctly. Yes, you have oil from the drain hole in the bolt seeping up to the bottom of the threads and oil from the bottom of the pan seeping down to the top of the threads, but you essentially have the same thing with a standard drain plug also - i.e. they are essentially wet installed in the old oil.

- Banjo bolts - which is basically what the F106SX is have been used a lot in various applications. 1984 - 1997 Honda Civic fuel filters are the ones I am most familiar with, but I think they are used on brake lines and hoses also. No real reports of them loosening from fluid leakage.

Now, if I was really concerned about it, I could have used some loctite on the valve body to pan outside of the O-ring and on the bolt to valve outside of that O-ring, but I wasn't concerned about it.
 
#44 ·
What is it Robert Baden-Powell said- "be prepared"

I gotcha thinking about it now...

Meh, I know you'll probably add the loctite anyways without saying :wink:

I'll hand it to ya for the parallel concept with the brake hose, but that was a design element from all manufacturers. This is one of those trying to reinvent the wheel concepts which hopefully doesn't come at a cost to someone's engine through failure.

Sure there's a lifetime warranty on the product, but not the engine which relies on this product if it fails :wink:
 
#46 · (Edited)
'You just couldn’t let me go could you? This is what happens when an unstoppable force meets an immovable object.'
.....'I think you and I are destined to do this forever.'

'It's the schemers that put you where you are. You were a schemer, you had plans, and uh, look where that got you. I just did what I do best. I took your plan and I turned it on itself.'

Quotes from- The Joker

Transition into being serious now. I know right; 'why so serious?'

Let's take a closer look at a brake hose. I'll sum it up with, the copper crush washers, the banjo won't spin because it's unable to spin due to its connection back to the hose line, the bolt hole for the brake fluid might go to the threads closer to the hole, but not on both sides of the thread, brake fluid isn't a lubricant like oil is...I can go on and on...but most importantly is the point with the brake hose line is unable to spin off b/c of the reason mentioned a moment ago.

Now this Fumoto F106SX can spin freely b/c there's no resistance to the port side unlike the brake line comparison you used earlier if it does start to become loose from the bolt side and oil reaching the threads.

 
#47 ·
This is almost as bad as the oil threads...>:D Carry on....:lurk:
 
#48 ·
I thought the point of an EZ valve or Fumoto valve was to make things, easy. Another word is simple.

Instructions to install my EZ Oil Drain:
1. Remove the drain plug and drain the oil
2. Hand install the valve until tight.
3. Turn 1/8 inch with a small cresent wrench
DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN
4. Turn the lever to open and close.

Tiger-Heli and Freeway Surfer's dialog is making my head spin. :D

It looks like the smallest part of the opening is 1/4 inch. The opening looks a little larger than the Fumoto, but I could be wrong. My Fumoto went with the car I sold. I am wondering what orientation the lever will end up having? The picture shows up, but with my Fumoto the lever was down. Meaning I always got a little oil on myself. .
 
#50 · (Edited)
While we're comparing and contrasting: I understand why they did it, but I don't like the lever orientation with the F106SX. Typically the lever indicates flow direction - i.e. inline with the opening indicates open, 90-degrees to the opening indicates closed. With the F106SX it is reversed. They did it b/c of people worried about brush and debris flipping the lever open, and it is spring loaded and plastic locked, so it is hard to get it wrong, but if you are used to telling valve position by sight, it is different.

I'm going to more or less close with two observations:

- There is also an adapter (spacer) on my install that could back out and that I can't easily check the torque on - other than removing the SX valve or using a crow foot adapter with the torque wrench and working out the conversion.

- That said, I can't really follow Freeway Surfer's logic with this one. Yes, the threads are oil-soaked. Yes, there are copper washers on the brake lines and there are crush washers on drain plugs, there's a fiber washer on the Fumoto spacer and Viton O-rings on the F106SX valve and bolt and the EZ Oil valve. That said, ultimately, these take the place of an oil drain plug and install the same way and basically, I have never heard of an oil drain plug vibrating out of the pan - UNLESS it was only installed hand-tight and never had a wrench put on it - and I have heard of that happening. Even if you don't use ANY crush washer, usually you just get a few drips of oil from the plug.

Tiger-Heli and Freeway Surfer's dialog is making my head spin.
We tend to over-think things. The EZ valve will work fine, just like your previous Fumoto did.

I am wondering what orientation the lever will end up having?
They should make these things with a thin jam nut - so you can set the orientation and then lock it down. That is one advantage of the F106SX, but not why I bought it (but it IS why I used the spacer).

With the regular Fumoto, once I thought I reinstalled it and got the proper orientation, but it was pointed out to me (in an Amazon review) that I was wr ..., wron ..., er, mistaken. What I did was just torque it a bit more and compress the fiber washer more.

Fumoto says you can add extra washers and change the orientation if you want (but I was always worried about the two washers with an oil filter which dumps all the oil), but different pressure scenario. You could do that with the EZ, but it defeats the "advantage" of the Viton O-ring.

The picture shows up, but with my Fumoto the lever was down. Meaning I always got a little oil on myself.
Shouldn't have. Two of my Fumotos ended up upside-down, but I never got any leakage from the lever, only from the valve opening when the lever was open.
 
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