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Adding steering wheel controls/cruise control to base Elantra SE

78K views 113 replies 29 participants last post by  Thomas1245 
#1 ·
so basicly i got a 2017 Elantra SE base model and love it im trying to make it "mine" one way is changing to an aftermarket radio and adding cruise control. now when looking for this stuff i come to find out the only cruise control i can get is the stupid aftermarket one that sticks out of the steering colum and i really dont want that. so what i want to do is to get one of these (cant post links yet, its on ebay search OEM steering Wheel Remote Auto Cruise Control Kit For HYUNDAI 2017 Elantra AD) its the buttons for the elantra AD which from what i can gather is basicly the elantra but a different name for a different market, i cant find any differences and even had a OEM part checker said it would fit my car. i dont think that all of the hardware for cruise control is in the car waiting for the right buttons (which would be nice but then i would probably see "aftermarket" ones that just add the buttons instead of add the lever) but buttons are buttons so the plan is to get a aftermarket cruise control module and wire it to the steering wheel controls instead of the steering column controls it comes with. and to do the steering wheel radio controls i might have a place to plug them in but i might have to hardwire them myself. any thoughts? tips? tricks?
 
#2 ·
@Gabe Lunday: 00000732 Welcome to the forums.

I'm not smart enough to answer nor attempt this. But some of the fellas might be able to help you. This subject has come up before. Just keep checking back. And try the search option on the page header, in the meantime.
 
#3 ·
GM was really dirty on this issue, changed the steering wheel, no way to snap in the cruise switch, had to buy a new steering wheel first, also the clocksprings were missing, really hard to find these parts.

Daughter's 2015 Soul base was not too bad, dealer told her if she wanted cruise, to this place, will charge you 750 bucks for an aftermarket, but she has a dad. saw that blank snap in panel where this switch should go with a photo in her owners manual. Found a place on the internet that sells OEM Kia parts and found the switch, also listed two harnesses, one with this switch other without.. Total order was 60 bucks, this was her Christmas and birthday present, works perfectly. Even the dash lights up.

Now the Hyundai, lost here, don't even know what the steering wheel looks like, does it have that blank panel?

Quick net search revealed this at:

http://www.hyundaiparts123.com/oem-parts/hyundai-cruise-switch-964403s000ry/?c=aT0xMDI0MjgwNSZyPTg=

Cruise Switch - Hyundai (96440-3S000-RY)



They also show the harness, want $49.68 for this switch, but can do another net search with that part number to learn if you can get a better price.


Radios are getting very difficult, not radios anymore but part of the data link system of the vehicle with all those alarms. Would trust Crutchfield for recommendations, dealt with them for years, very honest, least until recently, have no idea anymore.


Ha, for me, getting lazy, really wheel and deal for more options, saves a lot of headaches, and with this new stuff, where are the screws? You gotta have cruise, dang cars are so quite, can easy do 56 in a 55 and get nailed, not only by the government, but your insurance company as well.
 
#5 ·
According to Shark Racing, the switch set is all you need.

2017+ Elantra Interior Switch Set - Color Conversion - Shark Racing

"For cars without the cruise control option, installing this switch set will activate the cruise control, and you do not need to do anything else, you will gain the cruise control function."
Not saying it won't work but Shark Racing has been wrong before. They sold an auto headlight switch and a sensor for the 2013 they said was all you needed. Find out at the sensor there are missing wires if your car did not come with that option.
 
#7 ·
Here is one photo from the manual to show you what you are in for, shows how to plug in the airbag connector. Have to say on that Kia, was real easy to plug that in, but getting it out was not. Used two very small jewelers screw drivers to very carefully pry it out, and you don't dare pulling on the wires, will break them off, not using 16AWG wires anymore. While my kid purchased her Soul in Milwaukee, checked with my local friendly Kia dealer if they would install it, said they are not allowed to do this.

Okay! (quietly said to myself, will do it myself)
 

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#10 · (Edited)
Exciting update. I have emailed the guys at shark racing, asking them to verify if indeed their product on the link 2017+ Elantra Interior Switch Set - Color Conversion - Shark Racing will give cruise control function to a manual transmission 2017 elantra that did not come with cruise control. He assured me that indeed his product will give cruise control for both manual and automatic trans models. I have also done some digging online on how people added cruise with various Kia models. There are quite a few youtube vids on this. I was concerned like others here that the wiring might not be available in my car, so I popped off my airbag/horn this morning to have a look. First off, I disconnected the battery and waited a half hour while I ate. Then I started on the airbag/horn. It comes off by shoving an allen wrench key (or something similar) into each of 3 holes behind the steering wheel. In the first picture, my finger is pointing to a small spring loaded button-looking thing which is on that fat steel peg. That is what you want to depress in each of the 3 holes. It will pop out nicely as soon as you push that button. The holes in the steering wheel are big enough to see inside so you will see it for yourself. Anyway, after removing the airbag/horn, I just folded it up, I did not disconnect it. Saw no need to risk damaging anything. I looked all around and saw that the units that are sold on ebay, the "U"-shaped ones with all the buttons on it are screwed onto the steering wheel from within. I will have to use one of those small ratcheting 90 degree phillips screwdrivers to get at them (see picture #2). But the best part of my morning was seeing the connector inside the wheel. See picture #3. In the red circle, you can see that there are 12 pins. The wire plug that goes in there only has 5 wires. The first black one is the horn, the 4 others go right to the trip computer buttons on the right hand side of my steering wheel. My left hand, empty side, has a big dummy plug and no wires leading to it. I am convinced that purchasing from shark or ebay which comes with the wire will work. I was happy to see a 12 prong connector of which only 5 are being used. Had I seen only a 6 wire plug to a 6 prong connector, I would consider myself unlucky and have to go with the rostra brand cruise and wire everything up myself. Anyhow, you can count on me taking the gamble and ordering the $50 ebay version and getting back to you all with a YAY or NAY as soon as the parts come in. One other point to keep in mind, apparently there are a couple of different controls available. Not sure of part numbers, but most have the smart cruise icon with an "OK" on the toggle switch (that toggle probably gets depressed to function as an "OK") while others lack the smart cruise icon and have a dedicated "OK" button. I know I'll end up with buttons that don't function for that and bluetooth, but ask me if I give a "cough". I'm just looking for normal cruise. Perhaps the radio functions will work for my cheapo, not-even-rds-radio they supplied me with or someday perhaps even that will be changed and I'll get a decent radio that can function from the wheel. Peace!
 

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#12 ·
IT WORKS!! Package came today after like 2 weeks. I did not have the proper 90 degree Phillips head screwdriver to remove the current button setup but I could not wait, so I disconnected my battery, waited a few minutes, removed my airbag, disconnected my current buttons from the plug and attached the new one. Took a ride and tried with the new buttons hanging on my hand. Cruise now is functional. Accel works, stepping on the clutch or brake stops cruise function as it should. See the green light above the gas gauge? That wasn't there before and now I have it. As an added bonus, my bottom-of-the-line radio now can be controlled from the steering wheel as well! I will be posting pics next day or so, but for now I just wanted to share that it does indeed work, and now I'm happier than a pig in mud! I only paid 45 bucks for it.
 

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#19 ·
IT WORKS!! Package came today after like 2 weeks. I did not have the proper 90 degree Phillips head screwdriver to remove the current button setup but I could not wait, so I disconnected my battery, waited a few minutes, removed my airbag, disconnected my current buttons from the plug and attached the new one. Took a ride and tried with the new buttons hanging on my hand. Cruise now is functional.
Well done, sir. Impressive. Probably a couple of AD owners stroking their chins and going, "Hmm..." Nice job.

You get any more of these crazy, wild-a$$ed ideas, post them. Again, nicely done!
 
#14 · (Edited)
Yes, the menu button took the place of the old "trip" button and the "OK" is the "reset". I think toggling that switch is the same as hitting the menu button. I have the very basic instrument cluster, but someday I will also be bold enough to try upgrading it and perhaps gain some features I am lacking. I have 4 buttons that do not function, the top left voice activation looking guy, the call and end buttons for the phone and the smart cruise control (I think that's what it is). I just finished completely installing this and couldn't be more pleased. You need a 90 degree "offset" phillips screwdriver $2.99 at harborfreight, which you can see in picture number 2. You can also see in the same picture, there were two tabs in front of that screw that I'm working on. I broke off one tab, and then broke both off to make installation easier. I was upset because there are two screws that are inaccessible even with the offset screwdriver. This is the second screw from the top on either side. The top screw on either side has a hole that goes through to the backside of the wheel. The next two do not. The ideal way would be to remove the steering wheel so you can remove the plastic backside of the steering wheel to get at those 2 screws. I did not want to do that. I popped two holes through that back cover to give me access with a straight screwdriver in picture numbers 3 and 4. Cheap plastic gave minimal resistance. Hyundai still has a way to go with their use of it. Anyway, that back plastic cover already has holes in it, two more make no difference. I have yet to notice the extra holes. Maybe if it bothers me, I will end up getting some rubber grommet style plugs just to say I covered it up. The real pain was removing the old wire. It is routed in such a way that it is probably impossible to remove without removing the steering wheel first. I unscrewed the back cover of the steering wheel which allowed just a little bit of extra wiggle space. I still needed to clip the old wires from the plug and away it came. The new wire came with three plugs, only two of which are used for my buttons. The big plug with the yellow arrow on picture number 5 I taped up and left it there hanging. I am not concerned, everything you see in the picture turns as one unit with the steering wheel, so it will never catch onto anything. The same goes for the routing of your wires. That unused plug has the black and red wires in the circle at the top of the same picture. Those black and red wires have no corresponding leads in my plug at the clockspring that it goes into, so whatever function they had, cannot be had with my car. Perhaps it isn't even for use in an elantra since it connects nowhere on my buttons. Funny how I gained radio controls even with my standard radio. Someday, if I upgrade the radio, those unused buttons will work. and I'm wondering about that smart cruise function. maybe a sensor and instrument cluster upgrade is all that is needed. Not worried about that at all, I got what I wanted and then some. Funny thing, I step on the clutch or brake, cruise stops which is great. I tried and succeeded to fool it by just pulling out of gear without clutch. The engine winds up at a controlled rate. I stepped on the clutch at like 5k rpm to stop it, otherwise it would just keep going until limited or busted. Of course I realize doing this is something that stick shift drivers would not do ordinarily and so was not programmed into the cruise. I wonder if you automatic boys out there with cruise control throw it in neutral while on cruise control if the car would know and shut off cruise. Anyway, just pondering. Stay safe.
 

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#33 ·
What I'm thinking in reading this is that, in order to get the functionality of a $45 part, you have to pay $1200 for the option package. :mad:

Seems to me Hyundai could include it with all models as an extra added incentive to buy their cars. And how much did the dealer want to install the part? I think Nick said $750. Wow.
 
#24 · (Edited)
Bought on ebay. Best search is "2017 elantra cruise". There are a few people selling these. Just make sure you get the one with the cable included. your cable that is in the steering wheel will not work as you need more cables for the more functions. The one I got was $45 total, shipped. My seller is now selling for $75, but there are a few people still selling for close to $45. Read their feedback ratings though. Tracking number was not accurate, came in 15 days total, tracking updates were non-existent. Buttons light up too! Start to finish time I would say about an hour. I was always taking my time trying to make triple sure of something before cutting or popping holes.
 
#26 ·
I THINK the only way is to remove the steering wheel in order to remove the back plate of the steering wheel to have access to the second screw on each side. Either removing the wheel, or perhaps if there is a very small 90 degree phillips offset screwdriver. See the pictures, very tough spot. I am convinced the only way is to punch holes or remove the wheel, which probably needs an impact wrench and steering wheel puller. I don't know, see, or care about the holes I made. There are already many stock holes on that back plate, but certainly is your choice if you want to avoid that. I didn't want to open that can of worms. If you do take off the wheel, it will also help you tremendously with wire routing. I had a bit of a time doing so with my fat fingers and all. Anyway, tape up the connectors to a point and they will slide down the back easy enough to get them where you want them.
 
#20 ·
Old post, but I wanted to clarify some things ...

so basicly i got a 2017 Elantra SE base model and love it im trying to make it "mine" one way is changing to an aftermarket radio and adding cruise control.
Radio is still a fairly easy swap on the Elantra (non-Limited). Metra makes a dash kit and harness for it now. You will lose voice command functions, but (so far) Hyundai DOES NOT tie in the databus and the HVAC controls and what-not into the radio.

On the AD Elantra, you can basically just add the butons. However, on the Accent you have to add wires from the buttons to the PCM, even though on the Rio you can just add buttons. Most cars are drive-by-wire now, so you usually don't need to add modules or parts, but the wiring isn't always there.

elantra AD which from what i can gather is basicly the elantra but a different name for a different market
AD is the 2017+ Elantra as opposed to the MD which was the previous generation. It has no relation to market, although there are subtle differences in the AD Elantra between markets.

I have the very basic instrument cluster, but someday I will also be bold enough to try upgrading it and perhaps gain some features I am lacking.
Careful with this - it can usually be done and work well, but on most cars the mileage is stored in the cluster, so you either have to keep track of the difference and sign an odometer error statement when you sell, or have the new cluster programmed to your existing mileage.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Careful with this - it can usually be done and work well, but on most cars the mileage is stored in the cluster, so you either have to keep track of the difference and sign an odometer error statement when you sell, or have the new cluster programmed to your existing mileage.
Best to be done professionally, by a state-certified speedometer shop, or dealer, yes? Either can give you an affidavit that would meet the legal requirements.

Even then, if I was looking at a used car for my grandkids and this subject came up, there's no end to the number of red flags that would start dancing in my head. Even WITH the affidavit, I would have some serious moments of hesitation. And what else is the seller gonna tell me? "The VIN # was erroneously transcribed by the licensing agent's counter person when the tag was bought?" :eek:

I just don't think I would feel comfortable with any of the above scenarios. But, then again, that's "cautious me." My rebellious days of "anything goes" passed by a long time ago. I'm only a little radical now. :wink2:
 
#30 ·
Got the shipping notice just now, coming from South Korea. If anyone wants the exact part numbers, they are below.

96700-F2230 (Steering Wheel Control Switch)

56190-F2610 (Extension Cable)

It looks like there are a few sellers, but prices may rise once this trick is figured out by those of us that didn't want to pay $1,800 to get cruise control as an upgrade.
 
#31 ·
Very true; then again Hyundai could switch the game up for future production models. At any rate...the gamble (price and time to install) is minimal and worth it. Who's installing yours?
 
#35 · (Edited)
Yes and no. The accounting guys usually have this pretty-well figured out.
Only problem I've found with bean counters is this: "Hey, gurus, how about getting those small rock pebbles out of the 2# bags of pinto beans before you tackle something a bit more complex, like auto option packages, flight times, and medical supplies?" Or, "Spare the rock, spoil the tooth!"
 
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#41 · (Edited)
@Tiger-Heli: Sure see you playing a lot of devil's advocate, of late. Are the horns beginning to spring forth from the skull, yet? >:D

So, this do-it-yerself cruise package was $45 +/-. And Hyundai will install them beginning in whatever. My point: MASP gonna reflect the increase in price to the consumer? If so, how much? We already know who gets hung on the hook for any add'l, yes?

Hyundai has two options:
1. Add and take the hit for the option
2. Charge for the add'l.
3. Do nothing, let it be a forum members pay the bill.
 
#42 ·
@Tiger-Heli: Sure see you playing a lot of devil's advocate, of late. Are the horns beginning to spring forth from the skull, yet? >:D
Ask my wife - on second thought - probably not a good idea ...:wink:

So, this do-it-yerself cruise package was $45 +/-. And Hyundai will install them beginning in whatever. My point: MASP gonna reflect the increase in price to the consumer? If so, how much? We already know who gets hung on the hook for any add'l, yes?

Hyundai has two options:
1. Add and take the hit for the option
2. Charge for the add'l.
3. Do nothing, let it be a forum members pay the bill.
Maybe I'm a bit thick today, but I'm not following where you are going with this ...

For the AD Elantra, really this only makes sense for customers that want the stick-shift base model. For them, adding cruise means getting the auto trans AND the $700 popular package.

As I posted previously about the base model, the $700 Pop Package gets you the nicer radio (not Infinity, but touch-screen), the 16-inch alloy wheels instead of 15-inch hubcaps, the rearview camera, heated mirrors, etc.

The only reason NOT to pay the $700 for that, would be if you KNEW you would add aftermarket rims and stereo, and didn't want any of the high-tech features on higher trims.

We now know you can DIY add cruise control for $45 in parts. Hyundai COULD make that a standard feature in the 18 (or 19?) AD Elantra, or you might be able to get the dealer to install it for you if you supplied the parts (guessing maybe $100-150 labor, don't know), or you MIGHT see it as maybe a $150-$250 stand-alone option for the base model AD, but I doubt it b/c it would add too many configurations for them to keep up with.

(I mentioned this before when I was considering between the Dodge Dart and the Kia Rio at the time:

The Dart had something like 4 trims levels, 10 options per trim level - some in packages, some individual, 7 or 8 colors per trim level, two or three interior colors per paint color.

The Rio had three trim levels, 5 or 6 paint colors, MAYBE one option package per trim level, and maybe two interior colors.)

Short point:

I could find EXACTLY what I wanted in the Dart - ON PAPER. Maybe 1 or 2 available in the entire country. On the Rio, I had to get some things I would rather not have, or give up some things I wanted, but once I picked a color and trim package, there were probably 2 or 3 cars configured EXACTLY like that at EACH dealer!!!
 
#43 ·
@Tiger-Heli: I got caught up on @apenland01 's comment:

"However, I read somewhere that Hyundai was putting cruise control in the base SE car starting with their newest run, so this issue may only impact those of us that bought first generation, first run cars early on with the big discount..."

Guess I was working out that scenario in my finger. Not sure head was working this morning. :wink2: If they (Hyundai) did the above, wonder how it would reflect on the MSRP? No change? Moderate change? Or it's not going to be offered at all and those owners wanting a cruise option would have to resort to eBay for the mod part.

I think that helps clarify, if nothing more than I should never text immediately after waking up. :eek:
 
#44 ·
Got it now.

It depends on how much they need to do to remain competitive. If most competitors cars have cruise free, it will be no cost.

Keep in mind that the only Elantras without cruise now are the base SE without auto trans and the base SE without the Pop package. I'm guessing they don't sell a lot of those compared to all the Elantras, so if I had to make a prediction, I would think the MSRP would go up $100 or $200 (which it likely would with or without cruise) and they would claim they "threw in" cruise to "justify" it.
 
#46 · (Edited)
"A lot of stuff is unknown even by the dealer service techs, and the sales staff is lucky if they can tell you what comes in each trim package from the factory, much less what you can and can't add to the car. "---------

Yes, but this went up and down the line at the dealership, dealer gets a hold of general manager who does research and says no way to get cruise with standard, end of story as far as they were concerned. Not blaming them at all, I'm sure they'd love to get more $$ from me as an add-on, just funny how they don't have the right info sometimes.

"Some things really can't be added"--------


Absolutely, it's just fun finding the things you can. Like easter eggs in a dvd.

"More info: Obviously, you can install fog lights apart from the factory system with a separate toggle switch. The factory light switch goes through a data bus connection through the BCM....."--------------

I'd draw the line there and route the darn thing direct from battery to switch to lights! Problem solved! Hehe....>:D

"Rostra is in a tough spot here. Off the top of my head:
Dodge Dart - Can just install switches and have CC.
Kia Soul - can just install switches and have CC - thanks NicholasD.
AD Elantra - we know now you can just install switches and a harness and have CC.
Kia Rio - can just install switches and have CC.
Hyundai RB Accent (same body and engine as Kia Rio), can install switches, but need three wires from the switches (or somewhere else) to the PCM - there is a thread on here about it - I'm not sure if there is an inexpensive harness to install it.
Gen III Focus - From memory - I don't think you can buy switches, you can buy the steering wheel with CC for around $300, and THEN you can have CC turned on at the dealer through their equivalent of Hyundai's GDS system - but you don't need Focccus and it CAN be enabled even if the car didn't come with it.
So Rostra sells you a package that will work in your car without having to research how it works from the factory. Yes, in many cases you are buying parts you don't need, but you WILL end up in the end with working CC regardless."--------------

Well, I certainly would have appreciated the opportunity to get a Rostra if I couldn't get oem to work, he was just adamant that the car has been evaluated, and they determined that all this stuff was indeed needed. Perhaps at the time they did their research that was the case, who knows. I just got to thinking, I got the Korean version, that alone might be the reason I was able to make it work? Anyhow, thanks for the input.
 
#51 ·
Yes, but this went up and down the line at the dealership, dealer gets a hold of general manager who does research and says no way to get cruise with standard, end of story as far as they were concerned. Not blaming them at all, I'm sure they'd love to get more $$ from me as an add-on, just funny how they don't have the right info sometimes.
It isn't that - it is a liability issue for them. To give you a simple but exaggerated example:

You can order the 2016 Accent with or without a cargo net or with or without a rear cupholder. If my car didn't have them, I'm sure the dealer would be happy to install on for me for a small fee.

You can only get the 2.0 turbo engine in the Elantra Sport. I'm pretty sure it would fit in the Limited and would PROBABLY work. But you can't go to the Hyundai dealer and say "Here's 15K, drop the 2.0T motor in my Limited" b/c:

It might not work, and then he doesn't get your 10K or the money he spent trying to do it.

Even if he does, if the car ever goes in the shop they will say "This motor doesn't go in this VIN". Worse - let's say the Sport has bigger brakes to handle the more powerful engine, but you didn't upgrade the brakes and you can't stop in time and wreck someone else's car - guess who is going to get sued? (It won't be you.)

I'd draw the line there and route the darn thing direct from battery to switch to lights! Problem solved! Hehe....>:D
Touche, but one of the big complaints with the Rostra kit was that the stalk looked cheap compared to illuminated buttons on the wheel - same thing for a lighted un-labeled toggle switch under the dash to turn on the fogs.

he was just adamant that the car has been evaluated, and they determined that all this stuff was indeed needed. Perhaps at the time they did their research that was the case, who knows.
Not surprised, but ...

First off, as you said, we are not sure the mod works on the non-Korean-built cars, I doubt Rostra knows either.

Second, he really isn't going to say "Well, sure, we could have just included $45 of buttons in our kit, but you would have to remove the steering wheel, so we included all the servos and charge you $300 instead ..."
 
#47 ·
"" I'll install it."

I got the 2017 Hyundai Elantra in October 2016 and it has just shy of 20,000, so I'll probably have 45,000 or so on it by the end of the year. It seems to be a great car, even though I bought the cheapest version available (drove away at $15k). With the stupid amount of miles I put on it, there was no reason to buy a lot of frills, since it won't be mine in a couple of years."

Do you have the Korean version? Did you pull off your airbag/horn and see if your connection looks like mine with all the extra pins in the clockspring? See one of my first pics. (I think If I were that husky in your pic, I'd be howling like a wolf too.)
 
#48 · (Edited)
"" I'll install it."

Do you have the Korean version? Did you pull off your airbag/horn and see if your connection looks like mine with all the extra pins in the clockspring? See one of my first pics. (I think If I were that husky in your pic, I'd be howling like a wolf too.)
Very intriguing question for the other member on the forum. I just looked up the part numbers for the clock spring and the airbag as well as the wiring harness part number for the steering wheel control panel.

Whoa...enlightened moment --->

~ The clock spring has the exact part numbers for both Korea and the Alabama production models (most likely b/c the part was made in Korea).

~ airbag the part numbers are different. **** the Alabama version airbag replacement cost is $930 and the Korean one is $530. That's a significant price difference!

~ The wiring harness for the steering wheel control panel. This is interesting. There's 2 part numbers for the Alabama version and 4 part numbers for the Korean version. One of the harnesses will be specifically for the Sport model along with the others being manufactured for their intended purpose as well.

In conclusion...this mod might only be able to be done on Korean produced vehicles. A bit more digging is required before finally concluding with absolute certainty.
 
#49 ·
I don't actually know if I have the Korean version or not. Which digit in the VIN tells me that? Is it a K or U or something? Basically, I gambled that all the early Elantra's were rigged with the 12-pin connector and the only variant is the extension cable downstream of that connector. I'll find out once the kit arrives and I break into it. If it's got the 12-pin connector, I'm good. If not, I'll look to see if it's easily wireable, otherwise I'll send it back for a refund and just be disappointed as all h e l l.....
 
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