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Old 03-20-2013, 09:12 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Jacking points?

I'm wondering where the jacking points are for our car. I've checked HMA service and the only locations I've found are these:
https://www.hyundaitechinfo.com/data...sgdgi2002e.gif

Where are the jacking points on the underbody?

Edit: I've found one possible location at the front hydraulic garage jacking point!!. What about the rear? Does anyone have pictures of the jacking points they use on their EGT?

Last edited by xmai77; 03-20-2013 at 09:21 AM.
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Old 03-20-2013, 09:38 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Where are the jacking points on the underbody?
All very clearly explained in the owner's manual. Get down on your knees and you'll see the reinforced points under the rocker panels.
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Old 03-20-2013, 09:40 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for your reply. I understand I can jack underneath the rocker panels. I'm looking for jacking points in the center line of the car so I can jack the entire front or rear end up. I don't want to have to jack each of the four spots under the rocker panels.
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Old 03-20-2013, 09:48 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks for your reply. I understand I can jack underneath the rocker panels. I'm looking for jacking points in the center line of the car so I can jack the entire front or rear end up. I don't want to have to jack each of the four spots under the rocker panels.
I hear you. In the past I have looked for body cross members. However, with present day unibody design that can be tricky. Look for something that also becomes an anchor point for the suspension which would be strong enough to carry the car. Have not bothered with this method in years and cannot direct you to a fail safe point.
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Old 03-20-2013, 09:49 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I hear you. In the past I have looked for body cross members. However, with present day unibody design that can be tricky. Look for something that also becomes an anchor point for the suspension which would be strong enough to carry the car. Have not bothered with this method in years and cannot direct you to a fail safe point.
Gotcha. Thanks anyway. It seems like they're really trying to stop us from performing our own standard maintenance!
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:52 AM   #6 (permalink)
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One suggestion would be to put a piece of 4x4 lumber between the places mentioned in the manual for jacking, then you could jack the whole front/rear up.
That is if there is nothing ,like an exhaust pipe in the way??
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Old 03-23-2013, 01:50 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Be careful, the stock jack points are horrible and will bend if you use the wrong jack.
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Old 04-17-2013, 04:37 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Any more thoughts on possible jacking points besides the ones under the rocker panel? Somebody here must do their own wheel changes :S. I'd rather not have to jack the car 4 times to change 4 wheels.
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Old 04-17-2013, 10:07 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Any more thoughts on possible jacking points besides the ones under the rocker panel? Somebody here must do their own wheel changes :S. I'd rather not have to jack the car 4 times to change 4 wheels.
I changed out my wheels a couple weeks ago. I like you wondered and did a little reading here.

For the front, there is a wide flat cross member a ways back at the rear of the engine. But my roller hydraulic jack would not access it and allow the handle to pump up and down to raise the jack... the handle was under the car with limited verticle movement. Now I was told (since) using a heavy screw driver or bar that is shorter would work to raise the jack enough to get the jack stands under.
But I did it a different way, it worked for me and I was surprised by the structural stiffness of the GT when doing it. I used the hydraulic jack on the same cross member... but rolled the jack in behind the drivers front tire under the wheel well as far under as possible to that same cross member. It was not on the centerline of the car... but a more than 1/3 of the way across and could use the jack because the height of the wheel well allowed the handle enough verticle movement. The jack lifted the car w/ both wheels up enough to slide the jack stands under - but the lift was not even.. but close to even (1" difference). I watched that lift very carefully from the front and was pleased with the GT's rigidity to lift off centre. Lowered the car onto both jack stands under that same cross member. Next time I will use a piece of wood between the jack and the car for a tad extra height and to avoid the steel jack on the steel crossmember - concerned about scratching the undercoating.

For the rear... I don't know. I looked and found no suitable Hyundai location.
My car is equipped with a trailer hitch... and I used it on the centerline of the hitch gusset plate for lifting and the hitch cross member to slide the jack stands under. Strong and stable. Easy access because it is at the rear of the car. But because it is also so far behind the axle... the jack (my smallish hydraulic jack) had to be used to max lift to get the jack stands under. Again, next time I will use a wooden shim either under the jack or on the lift plate to gain an extra inch of lift and avoid marking the underside of my hitch.
I used wheel chocks for one tire on opposite end of the car I was lifting.. plus set the handbrake.

Somewhere I read (on the jack stands box) warns against lifting one side of the car front and rear. It should be the rear only, or front only.

That how I raised my GT for tire changeout and placed it onto jackstands.
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Old 04-17-2013, 10:30 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I made a ramp out of three layers of 2" x 6" with the ends cut at a 45 degrees then nailed together. I then drive the front wheel up on the ramp then jack the car from the front jacking point. Both the front and rear wheels will come off the ground. This is great for swapping directional tires front to back and vis versa. Also good for painting callipers 2 at a time. I made 2 ramps that are used for changing the oil. Have used these on about 6 cars now and works for all.
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