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Old 05-07-2012, 04:09 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I want to change my manual tranny fluid too, is it complicated to do?
No, it's really quite simple. It's easiest if you have some car ramps(canadian tire), which are also handy for oil changes. On your required list -you need a 17mm wrench or socket to open both the fill and drain bolts on the transaxle, 2 liters(1.9 liters exactly) of your favourite manual GL4 manual tranny fluid - Hyundai calls for 75W85 GL4 manual tranny fluid. You will also need something to catch the oil and a funnel with 1/2 inch tube extension probably at least 18 inches long if you are going to fill from the top of the engine bay or a manual fluid transfer pump( also available canadian tire $22 or princess auto $11- same pimp). I used the little hand pump to transfer from the bottle into the fill hole. I found this was the easiest.

When you have the car on the ramps you will notice the fill bolt at the front of the tranny and a drain bolt towards the back and bottom of the transmission. Always loosen the fill bolt first and the then proceed to the drain bolt, drain - replace the drain bolt and the fill until fluid starts coming out the fill bolt ,again should be 1.9 liters(it's impossible to overfill) . Torque specs should be around 25ft/lbs for both bolts. Clean up and then go for a ride.
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Old 05-07-2012, 04:51 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Knightro2 View Post
Because that is how they make money. Europe has been on 10k oil change intervals for years. The manufacturers even know that oil can go 10k without issue in most circumstances. But the dealers pushed back when Hyundai tried to do this. Their argument was that it was taking service money away from them.
In europe they drive Diesel engines, is it the same for oil change? so I should follow the manual for intervals and not what the dealer tells me?
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Old 05-07-2012, 04:55 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apu View Post
No, it's really quite simple. It's easiest if you have some car ramps(canadian tire), which are also handy for oil changes. On your required list -you need a 17mm wrench or socket to open both the fill and drain bolts on the transaxle, 2 liters(1.9 liters exactly) of your favourite manual GL4 manual tranny fluid - Hyundai calls for 75W85 GL4 manual tranny fluid. You will also need something to catch the oil and a funnel with 1/2 inch tube extension probably at least 18 inches long if you are going to fill from the top of the engine bay or a manual fluid transfer pump( also available canadian tire $22 or princess auto $11- same pimp). I used the little hand pump to transfer from the bottle into the fill hole. I found this was the easiest.

When you have the car on the ramps you will notice the fill bolt at the front of the tranny and a drain bolt towards the back and bottom of the transmission. Always loosen the fill bolt first and the then proceed to the drain bolt, drain - replace the drain bolt and the fill until fluid starts coming out the fill bolt ,again should be 1.9 liters(it's impossible to overfill) . Torque specs should be around 25ft/lbs for both bolts. Clean up and then go for a ride.
Thanks dude, I find it hard sometimes to shift into 1st gear, espacially when cold so I will do the same as you and put synthetic oil. I have a pair of ramps at home. I'll buy the pump and oil this week. )
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Old 05-07-2012, 05:20 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Thanks dude, I find it hard sometimes to shift into 1st gear, espacially when cold so I will do the same as you and put synthetic oil. I have a pair of ramps at home. I'll buy the pump and oil this week. )
If cold weather performance is your concern be careful which synthetic fluid you source as most of them are 75w90 which does not seem like much of a difference on the surface to 75w85 but it can be quite signifigant. For example I used redlines MT 85 which is a true 75W85 as per hyundai spec and it's base stock oil is similar to a 5W30 while their more commonly available MT90(75W90) is more similar to a 15W40 meant more for high temp racing trannies and you will see adverse cold pour characteristics. They also sell MTL(70W80) which is probaby too thin.

Just something to consider as it is possible to make things worse even with a synthetic.
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Old 05-07-2012, 11:41 PM   #15 (permalink)
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My neighbor has a 2010 BMW Z4 and the maintenance minder on the dash says his next oil service is due in 14,000 miles or in April, 2014, whichever comes first.

The Hondas I deal with at work usually go between 5,000 and 7,500 miles before turning on the wrench light at 15% oil life. I've seen highway warriors make it 10,000 miles before seeing the wrench.
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Old 05-08-2012, 07:50 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apu View Post
If cold weather performance is your concern be careful which synthetic fluid you source as most of them are 75w90 which does not seem like much of a difference on the surface to 75w85 but it can be quite signifigant. For example I used redlines MT 85 which is a true 75W85 as per hyundai spec and it's base stock oil is similar to a 5W30 while their more commonly available MT90(75W90) is more similar to a 15W40 meant more for high temp racing trannies and you will see adverse cold pour characteristics. They also sell MTL(70W80) which is probaby too thin.

Just something to consider as it is possible to make things worse even with a synthetic.
OK thanks, I'll check that. Do you find yours hard to shift in winter, especially in first gear?
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Old 05-08-2012, 08:30 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Xion View Post
In europe they drive Diesel engines, is it the same for oil change? so I should follow the manual for intervals and not what the dealer tells me?
Granted Europe does have quite a few more diesels than the US/Canada does...but they still have a lot of gas engines as well. The manual goes by the warranty for your vehicle and not the interval set by a dealer who makes money off of the service. I would go by the manual. Again, I would suggest getting an oil analysis done in the next couple of changes. It is the best way to see if your driving habits warrant a longer interval. There are quite a few different oil analysis companies out there. I've just used Blackstone-labs and know they are good.

I wouldn't go longer than 7,500 miles while your warranty is still good. If something should happen then they could deny you coverage if they can prove the oil condition is what caused it.
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Old 05-08-2012, 02:58 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I found these articles about oil change intervals:

Oil Changes: How Often?

How Often Should You Change Oil?

Motor Oil Myths and Facts

Cool gadget:

Intellistick

I drive my car for short periods of time to go to work in the city so I should use the severe oil change interval. In winter I don't drive long enough to go to work for the moisture to evaporate completely from the oil so in winter I should change the oil every 3 months or 3000 miles but every 7000 miles in summer or 6 months .
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Old 05-08-2012, 04:39 PM   #19 (permalink)
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OK thanks, I'll check that. Do you find yours hard to shift in winter, especially in first gear?
Unfortunately, I have not had it long enough to give you a true winter opinion, coldest it's been recently was 0 degress C and it shifted fine.
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