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Old 03-09-2012, 10:53 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default How To: Install FabWorx Mid Pipe

Wanted to make this for those about to tackle the job and for those that may be hesitant to do it. It's not a bad install, it does take about an hour if you don't run into any speed bumps, but a lift would help . If we all had lifts then this probably wouldn't be needed, but this is how to do it in your driveway with rhino ramps...

First get the car on the ramps. Best to sit them up against the lip going into your garage... make sure you lined up nicely on the ramps, put e-brake on and put some wood behind the rear tires before getting under the car.





Here's where you'll be working...



You'll need:
3/4 socket and ratchet
7/8 flat wrench (for the o2 sensor)
Anti-seize
flat-head screwdriver (to get the exhaust hangers off)
and some PB Blaster (just in case, you can always take it back if not needed... it eats away at corrosion and makes it easier to get the o2 sensor off)

And you'll hate me for this, but you need some new hardware for the rear connection (I threw the bags away from the nuts and bolts I bought and forgot what pitch the stock hardware is). It's ok though, you can use some nuts and bolts that you may have sitting around (test fit them first so you don't end up in a predicament) or you may want to take off one of nuts from the studs in the back and take it to your local auto parts store before getting started....

Unplug your battery and get under the car with your tools easily accessible. This car is pretty low and long, so it's a lot of fun with just ramps

Here's where to start... This is the MP/DP connection, and a shot of where the o2 sensor unplugs from (the easy side). You'll see an orange connector hiding to the right of the flanges, that's the electrical side of the o2 sensor. These two nuts are 3/4", take them off and unplug the o2 sensor. Also, there are some metal clips holding the sensor's wire to the car, may as well pry them back and get that ready to go as well.



While your there, grab the 7/8 wrench and start trying to break the sensor loose, If it's not budging, soak the threads in PB Blaster and let it sit while you work on the other areas...



Onto the rear. Much easier to get to if you crawl in from the sides of the car. Same deal, 3/4" nuts that you'll wanna take off. There's also a crossmember that you'll notice here. That will get in your way when taking it out, but also makes it easier when putting the new pipe in... Your call on whether or not you take it off.



After the pipe is loose, move on to the hangers. I don't have a pic of them, but I just grabbed my screwdriver and gave it all I got. They can be a pain if you don't get a good angle on them and your car is sitting 12" off the ground, but it's worth it... Don't forget to go back to the o2 sensor if it's been soaking. If you still cant get it, finger tighten the nuts back on the pipe and drive around your block to warm it up. PB Blaster on hot connections will make it as easy as it will get...

There's no magic trick to getting the pipe out, just rock it back and forth and fight with it a bit; luckily the DP is a flex pipe so you got some wiggle room. And finally it's out:



and the new pipe:



Please do yourself a favor and get anti-seize so you don't have wrestle with the sensor or the nuts any longer.



Reverse engineer the new pipe on, using your new nuts and bolts for the rear connection and coating all threads in anti-seize. I reused the stock exhaust gaskets and don't have any leaks. Make sure to plug in the o2 sensor. You can see that FabWorx has a pretty viable solution for the o2 sensor so you don't throw a CEL (I haven't). It repositions it a little bit, and pulls it away from the exhaust stream a little.

Impressions: There was a very slight increase in exhaust noise. There's a more bass like tone coming from the floor boards, but nothing real noticeable. If someone came over and swapped out your pipe without you looking, you wouldn't even notice... Until you feel the added power. No droning at cruising speeds and again, it's just ever so slightly more aggressive sounding than stock. If noise is your thing, you may wanna look into axle back options... If your worried about noise, don't worry... it's good. FabWorx has been a pleasure to deal with, Toni gives great customer service and listens to feedback. He's quick to ship things out as well (these are made to order). All in all, I would've just gotten this pipe and skipped the whole intake thing, as this actually made a noticeable difference in power. But I love the sounds that turbo's make, so the intake stays (BTW, got the intake from FabWorx as well). Now on to the intercooler

*Let me know if I missed something.
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Old 03-09-2012, 10:07 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Great write up. Are you sure the bolts are sae and not metric?
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Old 03-09-2012, 11:35 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Is that a resonator or a primary cat you are replacing? Nice write up.
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Old 03-10-2012, 09:39 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasen1 View Post
Great write up. Are you sure the bolts are sae and not metric?
Yeah. I was pretty surprised myself, but all the bolts under there are SAE. I should rephrase that and say im 98% sure, but I looked at the sockets left behind and pretty positive that's the size I was using....

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Originally Posted by Turbo Steve View Post
Is that a resonator or a primary cat you are replacing? Nice write up.
It's the primary cat and a resonator. Was expecting more of an increase in exhaust noise, but it's pretty darn quiet. Certainly no droning or annoying raspy exhaust noise...
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Old 03-10-2012, 10:25 AM   #5 (permalink)
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darnit.... gonha have to get some sae now.

looking at the conversion charts, 3/4 is just a hair over 19mm will probably be ok cause all I have is metric atm
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Old 03-10-2012, 01:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Vex wants to know if you can make a video for a 0-60/0-100mph comparison. There are plenty of stock 0-60s to base it on...just curious to see if that has increased enough to be noticeable on "paper"...

Also, if you have the time/resources, could you post a drive-by/ rev video?


Also, have you had someone else rev the car for you while you were outside near the exhaust to see if there was a noticeable exhaust note, or just from the drivers seat? I only ask, because being inside the car (even with windows down) sounds different than being behind the car...Also, We want to hear that turbo spooling action!!!
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Old 03-10-2012, 04:39 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasen1 View Post
darnit.... gonha have to get some sae now.

looking at the conversion charts, 3/4 is just a hair over 19mm will probably be ok cause all I have is metric atm
I would double check (the rear flange is pretty easy to get to), but I'm pretty sure mine was SAE.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lordvex View Post
Vex wants to know if you can make a video for a 0-60/0-100mph comparison. There are plenty of stock 0-60s to base it on...just curious to see if that has increased enough to be noticeable on "paper"...

Also, if you have the time/resources, could you post a drive-by/ rev video?


Also, have you had someone else rev the car for you while you were outside near the exhaust to see if there was a noticeable exhaust note, or just from the drivers seat? I only ask, because being inside the car (even with windows down) sounds different than being behind the car...Also, We want to hear that turbo spooling action!!!
I'll try to get some video up. No go on the 0-100 for a bit, as I just recently got a speeding ticket . I took a before of me revving in park, but the ECU limits revs to like 3500-4000 while parked. Maybe I'll try neutral, but free revs give a pretty good impression of sound and can get the turbo spooling. I could also get a drive by in lower gears out in front of my house, but you'll have to give me a few days.
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:16 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I understand the ticket thing...just got one a few weeks ago in NJ...105 in a 65...And I wasn't racing...I just wasn't paying attention to the speed....I got 2 court summons for it too...

Hey, take your time with the video...We appreciate it!
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:44 PM   #9 (permalink)
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sound clip, or it didnt happen
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Old 03-10-2012, 08:18 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skooler View Post
sound clip, or it didnt happen
Because the DIY provided didn't prove it...lol...
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