Tucson Hitch Recommendations

[Buerkletucson]

OK..........when I purchased my 2011 Tucson I never intended to put a hitch on or tow anything.
But, things change and now I may be forced to tow a small utility trailer a few times a year and also mount a hitch bike rack, so I need your help on selecting a good hitch.

Searched the hitch threads and most are quite dated........
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks....

[MikDee]

I got my hitch, & wiring kit, at U-haul, it has a 2" reciever, but if you want to make life a bit easier, get the Hyundai hitch wiring kit.
Here check out this thread:
Redneck Trailer Hitch Wiring Info

[Buerkletucson]

I did a fair amount of research and here is what I plan on getting...
The hitch (Draw-tite) uses a e-coat base and is then powerder coated.

The electrical isolated harness is a plug-n-play setup.


Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch for Hyundai Tucson 2011 - 75711


Tow Ready Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring for Hyundai Tucson 2011 - 118501

[sandcastles]

"The electrical isolated harness is a plug-n-play setup."

While this harness does fit and the connections for the tailight takeoff are a plug and play fit, the harness does deviate from the Hundai harness and might not be suitable for everyone
If you notice in the pic there is a rubber sealing plug just to the left of the modilite box. The way it's designed the 2 taillight wires run outside the vehicle and up thru a chase, and that leaves the box and (strangely) the trailer side wiring inside the vehicle.
I was told most people towing with hyundais are light duty users that prefer the simplicity of dangling the wiring out the rear hatch when they tow.
You can jury rig it several ways but it would be nice if it was a clean installation.

The Hyundai OEM part wires significantly differently. It does take a bit more work pulling the rear interior plastic panels but wires a bit cleaner. The taillight takeoff plugs are inside the vehicle, somewhat cleaner with less chance of a rattle. Most of the wire is routed and tied to the existing harness rather than crossing under the vehicle tied to the bumper like the tow ready.
Interestingly Hyundai routs the trailer side wiring out the taillight wire feed hole and then down the same chase and out behind the hitch that Tow ready uses to feed the wires up to the taillights.

If you don't pay full price for the oem part the difference can be about 50-70 dollars higher,
But if you want a clean permenent exterior mount, I think you either have to pay or jury rig the T1

Curt has one similar to the t0ne but the box is outside the vehicle and all wiring stays outside so it can easily be mounted permanently also. Other than that difference the rest of the wiring looks very similar to the T-one,
I was told the supplier that the Tone is not listed for exterior placement (looked like it was to me) but I couldn't verify that as I couldn't find a customer service number to call.

[sandcastles]

BTW, just to add and clarify for those considering

while the T-One says "Just plug in the T-one connector and you are ready to Tow" that's a bit misleading. For the Tucson you must still connect to a pwer source, with all 3 systems utilizing a wire to be run from the battery routed back along a brake line to the rear of the vehicle. It's nice to have access to ramps, jackstands or a lift for this chore,
Again there are ways to jury rig (like off the rear power outlet as previoulsy mentioned) but the best way for a permanent and clean installation is running the wire.

My 2012 has a preinstalled stud with 15amp fuse at the positive battery post for the installtion (why they don't run the wire I'll never know!!)

[Buerkletucson]

Thanks for the info.....

I purchased the above but won't install until spring.

This setup should work fine for me as I work on electrical equipment for a living so it's no big deal for me.
Plus I tow maybe 2x a year so having the harness connector inside the vehicle and stowed down by the spare is actually preferred for me. Keeps it clean and not full of road debris and/or salt.

[sandcastles]

The T-one will be a clean installation for anyone preferring the "over the tailgate" method for occasional towing.,

One note to insure less chance of rattles. While the instructions do not detail it, if you look at the T-one taillight takeoff female plug you will notice that it has a slide to attch to a mounting stud. If you remove the current oem female plug on the taillight assembly (pull up on the back of the plug carefully just to release the locking tab and then slide forward) and slide the T-one on the same way, your taillight will now connect to the oem vehicle plug mirroring the original factory installation. You can then carefully squezze the remaining Tone wire in a tight U and plug into original taillight plug then zip tieing wires tightly and neatly, held in with the other wires in a tight pocket.
This is not detailed in the instructions as they say simply say 'plug it in between the vehicle's mating connections' and done this way will lead to trying to reinstall the taillight assembly with excess wire to be crammed in as you try to reposition the light and that wire and loose plugs could easily lead to a rattle.

My description probably sounds a bit confusing but once you remove the taillight and see it all, it will be clear.
And for anyone considering, they really have made it pretty easy and if you are leaving it inside the vehicle the whole back part is quick and easy.

Wiring the power wire isn't complex but it's ease depends on how you are accessing the underside,,,, and have a lot more small zip ties than the non oem kits supply. I think hyundai uses more like 27

[Buerkletucson]

Originally Posted by sandcastles

The T-one will be a clean installation for anyone preferring the "over the tailgate" method for occasional towing.,

One note to insure less chance of rattles. While the instructions do not detail it, if you look at the T-one taillight takeoff female plug you will notice that it has a slide to attch to a mounting stud. If you remove the current oem female plug on the taillight assembly (pull up on the back of the plug carefully just to release the locking tab and then slide forward) and slide the T-one on the same way, your taillight will now connect to the oem vehicle plug mirroring the original factory installation. You can then carefully squezze the remaining Tone wire in a tight U and plug into original taillight plug then zip tieing wires tightly and neatly, held in with the other wires in a tight pocket.
This is not detailed in the instructions as they say simply say 'plug it in between the vehicle's mating connections' and done this way will lead to trying to reinstall the taillight assembly with excess wire to be crammed in as you try to reposition the light and that wire and loose plugs could easily lead to a rattle.

My description probably sounds a bit confusing but once you remove the taillight and see it all, it will be clear.
And for anyone considering, they really have made it pretty easy and if you are leaving it inside the vehicle the whole back part is quick and easy.

Wiring the power wire isn't complex but it's ease depends on how you are accessing the underside,,,, and have a lot more small zip ties than the non oem kits supply. I think hyundai uses more like 27

Thanks for the suggestion............I believe I understand what your trying to explain.
I'm anal about keeping it neat and tidy install.

[Driver1973]

Hitch and t-connector wiring received next day for less than 200$ at hitchdepotusa.com. Part numbers 13066 & 56101. Awesome deal and great products!

[RBull]

Thanks for the info sandcastles and buerkletucson. I'm putting a hitch on this coming spring.