clacking struts

[Danno]

Originally Posted by karhupoiika

but if they say every things tight how can i get them to replace them??
The noise makes the car sound like a12 year old **** box.
Specifically what links are they? Sway?
I also get a vibration that seems to come n go on the highway steering wheel doesn't shake its in my calves,top of dash I can see dash vibrating a bit same with gauges hood and a pillar.
I have had all the tires etc checked. I think I can hear a weird noise when I start and stop the car like a little shake and squeak just as it starts to crank over or just as engine stops spinning.
I wonder if it's all related..

Time to trade that POS in - buy something different than a Hyundai ....

[titaniumskull]

If you travel down a gravel road. And your uni body plugs weren't installed its an off chance that maybe some gravel got in the under structure. Doesn't mean it's what has happened to you, but my 95 Chevy s-10 had it happen and it took me a while to flush it out.


Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com App

Originally Posted by Danno

Time to trade that POS in - buy something different than a Hyundai ....

I am picking up sarcasm from you,(forgive me if I'm wrong) it's not my problem this car has been a problem child from day one.
I have been driving their products since my 1985 pony, probably a lot longer than you.
Accept the fact that Hyundai still like anyone else makes a lemon.
It's HMC Canada's that's making me not want another.

[Danno]

Originally Posted by karhupoiika

I am picking up sarcasm from you,(forgive me if I'm wrong) it's not my problem this car has been a problem child from day one.
I have been driving their products since my 1985 pony, probably a lot longer than you.
Accept the fact that Hyundai still like anyone else makes a lemon.
It's HMC Canada's that's making me not want another.

100% serious on cutting your loses and moving on.

Originally Posted by Danno

100% serious on cutting your loses and moving on.

We've tried, get this my dealership I've dealt with since I was 16 offered me 10-11,000 for a '11 Sonata GL 75,000 kms, tinted windows,remote start,alloys,3m bra mint shape minus a crack in the bottom of bumper.
Talk about a insult, 'sales man said but I can pick them up whole sale for that price'.
So?
This is trade in, not whole sale or am I not understanding the whole car sale thing.
We owe 16,000 on our lease, we cannot get into another because they wont give me a fair trade.
If they'ed give us more, the residual left wouldn't be so bad added to the new car.
I give up, and I'm done buying from them.

[jglopic]

Normally, a car's value based upon the type of sale goes something like:

trade-in <= wholesale << private party < dealer retail

The only time you are going to get a trade value higher than wholesale is if the dealer is making a killing off of the vehicle you are buying. I had this happen once; I traded two vehicles on two different vehicles, and the dealer sold my trades for less than I got from him. But it turns out he had seriously low-balled the previous owner of one of the vehicles I bought, so he made profit on the entire chain of sales.

Remember that a trade-in is only as valuable to the dealer as what similar stock is worth, and that is essentially wholesale price.

If you really want to get rid of your '11, you can shop it to different dealers or try to sell it yourself in a private party sale. Of course, without the title in hand, you will take at least a small hit on the private party price, too.

[Mod King]

I don't want to throw a wrench in this thread, but it's starting to get off topic, so let's stay on track with the suspension issue.

I think you have received more than ample information from myself and other members that posted about a potential solution that hasn't been explored (endlink), so start there. The endlinks are about $35-45 per side at the dealer. Buy one and replace the side that is making the noise. Worst case, you spend $35-45 to troubleshoot which is not much and best case, it resolves the problem and you can replace the other side as a preventative measure.

Originally Posted by got twins

I don't want to throw a wrench in this thread, but it's starting to get off topic, so let's stay on track with the suspension issue.

I think you have received more than ample information from myself and other members that posted about a potential solution that hasn't been explored (endlink), so start there. The endlinks are about $35-45 per side at the dealer. Buy one and replace the side that is making the noise. Worst case, you spend $35-45 to troubleshoot which is not much and best case, it resolves the problem and you can replace the other side as a preventative measure.

I said they checked my front end and said everything is ok, don't you think the end links would've been checked too ?
Why should I pay for a repair that's under warranty??

Originally Posted by jglopic

Normally, a car's value based upon the type of sale goes something like:

trade-in <= wholesale << private party < dealer retail

The only time you are going to get a trade value higher than wholesale is if the dealer is making a killing off of the vehicle you are buying. I had this happen once; I traded two vehicles on two different vehicles, and the dealer sold my trades for less than I got from him. But it turns out he had seriously low-balled the previous owner of one of the vehicles I bought, so he made profit on the entire chain of sales.

Remember that a trade-in is only as valuable to the dealer as what similar stock is worth, and that is essentially wholesale price.

If you really want to get rid of your '11, you can shop it to different dealers or try to sell it yourself in a private party sale. Of course, without the title in hand, you will take at least a small hit on the private party price, too.

they're selling used '11 Sonata's for 19,999

[Mod King]

This thread is closed.

You asked for help and we gave it to you, but all you want to do is argue about it.