Shark racing drl LEDs problem!

xgiannix · 11-17-2012, 01:58 PM

Ok so I bought my DRLs from shark racing a year ago, my driver side LEDs went out and I had to send then back. After 3 months I got them back but now the driver side doesn't go on, only when I turn my lights completely on. The passenger side I have no problem with. Anyone else have this issue? The lights work they just don't go on. Very frustrated I'm not waiting another 3 months to have this fixed...

Fox Mulder · 11-17-2012, 03:16 PM

If they do go on properly when you turn your lights on, that means the LED strip itself is ok and there is an issue with the harness. You can verify this by swapping the harnesses left-to-right.
If it is in fact the harness, it should be a simple repair for someone with basic electronic skills and soldering equipment.

PokerMunkee · 11-18-2012, 12:50 PM

Are these DRL LEDs that cheap? It seems about everyone has issues after a year or so. I really want them but don't want to regret dropping $200 to have them fail in 12 months.

Lordvex · 11-19-2012, 11:12 AM

Lol, add me to that list. A few months back they both started condensating inside. Well, the driver's side got so bad that water actually collected up past the first LED on the lower part and the LED doesn't work anymore. The water is making it's way up higher...I have to get them off and dry them out and see what I can do. I never contacted Shark Racing about it yet. OP, you said after a year they still replaced it/fixed it for you?

xgiannix · 11-19-2012, 12:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lordvex

Lol, add me to that list. A few months back they both started condensating inside. Well, the driver's side got so bad that water actually collected up past the first LED on the lower part and the LED doesn't work anymore. The water is making it's way up higher...I have to get them off and dry them out and see what I can do. I never contacted Shark Racing about it yet. OP, you said after a year they still replaced it/fixed it for you?

Yeah, they replaced it no problem. It appears that its not the actual LED light thats the problem but the harness. I have already cut the plastic off, and started checking the wires. There doesnt seem to be any loose wires. Does anyone know of a wiring diagram for these harnesses?

Lordvex · 11-19-2012, 02:08 PM

I remeber back when they were first selling the lights that they had a newer guy working on them and had some wires switched and they gave us info on how to switch them back inside the harness (no splicing/soldering required). Let me see if I can find it.

EDIT:

I can't seem to dig it up. I thought it was on the thread with them selling it. Sorry.

I have an idea though, take off the other harness and see what's different between the one that works and doesn't. Check the PINOUTS...make sure the same colors match up on both.

doc_aa · 11-19-2012, 06:06 PM

Change the 40 amp 12volt big relay in the harness. I had one failed after a year. Im assuming you only opened one drl-delete-harness so its the same relay used in HID relay harness just like the one pictured below. The small relay just before the led connectors is the turn-signal/blinking relay.

[IMG]http://www.hyundai-forums.com/222-yf-2011-sonata-i45/
(I dont have time to edit but its the big relay not circled on the opposite left.) You're lucky cuz most sellers would say electronic parts and components doesnt have warranty after a short period of time and SR replaced yours even after a year... LoLz !

stunt101 · 01-05-2013, 06:05 PM

Ok, I'm having the issue with the turn signal not working with the Shark Racing DRL lights on one side.
My relay says 40A 14VDC. It does say 12V at the top too. Picture below.
Where did you guys purchase your replacement relays. Would this one from radio shack work? 12VDC/40A SPST Automotive Relay : Automotive Relays | RadioShack.com

The VDC is different between them, would this be an issue?
Thank you!

Fox Mulder · 01-05-2013, 06:32 PM

The one from Radio Shack will work just fine, as will any automotive relay. The 40A rating is overkill for the application although there is no harm in using it. A 20A or 30A relay would be fine as well.
I'd want to make sure the relay is the problem before replacing it. There could be a simple wiring issue (broken connection).

stunt101 · 01-05-2013, 10:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fox Mulder

The one from Radio Shack will work just fine, as will any automotive relay. The 40A rating is overkill for the application although there is no harm in using it. A 20A or 30A relay would be fine as well.
I'd want to make sure the relay is the problem before replacing it. There could be a simple wiring issue (broken connection).

Great, and thank you, will give it a try.

11-18-2012, 12:50 PM	#3 (permalink)
PokerMunkee Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Woodland Park, CO 2012 Sonata Limited 2.0T Posts: 467	Are these DRL LEDs that cheap? It seems about everyone has issues after a year or so. I really want them but don't want to regret dropping $200 to have them fail in 12 months. __________________ 2012 Radiant Silver Sonata Limited 2.0T Built 8/31/11 Mods: Spoiler, Mud Guards, Clear Bra, V1 Hardwire 27% Tint, XS 6000K HIDs, PrecisionLED 6000K everywhere

11-19-2012, 11:12 AM	#4 (permalink)
Lordvex Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Stroudsburg, PA Drives Sonata 2.0T SE Posts: 238	Lol, add me to that list. A few months back they both started condensating inside. Well, the driver's side got so bad that water actually collected up past the first LED on the lower part and the LED doesn't work anymore. The water is making it's way up higher...I have to get them off and dry them out and see what I can do. I never contacted Shark Racing about it yet. OP, you said after a year they still replaced it/fixed it for you? __________________

11-19-2012, 02:08 PM	#6 (permalink)
Lordvex Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Stroudsburg, PA Drives Sonata 2.0T SE Posts: 238	I remeber back when they were first selling the lights that they had a newer guy working on them and had some wires switched and they gave us info on how to switch them back inside the harness (no splicing/soldering required). Let me see if I can find it. EDIT: I can't seem to dig it up. I thought it was on the thread with them selling it. Sorry. I have an idea though, take off the other harness and see what's different between the one that works and doesn't. Check the PINOUTS...make sure the same colors match up on both. __________________ Last edited by Lordvex; 11-19-2012 at 02:27 PM.

11-19-2012, 06:06 PM	#7 (permalink)
doc_aa Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: O.R. 2011 Sonata GLS Pearl white Posts: 223	Change the 40 amp 12volt big relay in the harness. I had one failed after a year. Im assuming you only opened one drl-delete-harness so its the same relay used in HID relay harness just like the one pictured below. The small relay just before the led connectors is the turn-signal/blinking relay. [IMG]http://www.hyundai-forums.com/222-yf-2011-sonata-i45/ (I dont have time to edit but its the big relay not circled on the opposite left.) You're lucky cuz most sellers would say electronic parts and components doesnt have warranty after a short period of time and SR replaced yours even after a year... LoLz ! __________________ 6000k Lows and Fogs, Retrofit Blazer Projector fogs, Led Fog DRL strips, Led everything, clear door lens, inner taillight mod, Luxgen badges, HP Black 05 Tint, Leather seatcover, Mobis mudflaps, Rear diffuser, Rearview mirror backup camera, Rear bumper Led reflectors, led footwell lighting, under-mirror led puddle lights, Paddle shifters, UR Strut Bar, Injen SRI. Last edited by doc_aa; 11-19-2012 at 06:09 PM.

11-17-2012, 03:16 PM	#2 (permalink)
Fox Mulder Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: NYC USA 2011 Sonata GLS MT Posts: 679	If they do go on properly when you turn your lights on, that means the LED strip itself is ok and there is an issue with the harness. You can verify this by swapping the harnesses left-to-right. If it is in fact the harness, it should be a simple repair for someone with basic electronic skills and soldering equipment.

01-05-2013, 06:32 PM	#9 (permalink)
Fox Mulder Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: NYC USA 2011 Sonata GLS MT Posts: 679	The one from Radio Shack will work just fine, as will any automotive relay. The 40A rating is overkill for the application although there is no harm in using it. A 20A or 30A relay would be fine as well. I'd want to make sure the relay is the problem before replacing it. There could be a simple wiring issue (broken connection).

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