Horn works sometimes - overheating wires?

[ambeliz]

Hello,

I did run a search here but did not find anything specific to horn issues, other than the sound_

Mine works almost all of the time; interestingly though when I'm stuck in traffic for long periods and correspondingly enraged, it stops working. It comes back after a while, I feel as if it comes back once the car cools (?)

I had read about heat soak under the hood due to the small space and was wondering if it could be related. I also want to pop open the steering wheel and take a look for loose wires.

Are there any diagrams or is it a basic lifting of the horn plate maybe?

Thanks all for your comments,

A

[ambeliz]

So, nobody has had the horn on their i10 stop working? Is it so easy a fix that no answer is required?

[RBURGOSS]

Probably no one here has experienced such problem.

If your horn quits working it could be one of two possible situations:

1) There is a loose contact at the horn itself, probably from crud or mud buildup inside connector plug, or loose grounding point to it.

2) There is a loose or false contact at your steering wheel horn contacts. If you do have airbags, then this is better to be checked at the service shop, since airbag removal is tricky and may lead to further problems.

In order to rule out that your steering wheel's horn contacts are responsible for the problem, next time you experience the problem, try honking horn from every possible "side" of the steering wheel. If you find out that it works on some sides but doesn't on others, then you have confirmation that the problem is at the steering wheel. Possible causes are rust buildup at certain contacts (horn mechanism inside air bag module). Fix is easy (just clean up with a piece of fine sanding paper at contacts) but as said, air bag module removal is tricky. Let this to the experts at the service shop.

[shedloads]

Well put it this way. If the horn on our i10 stopped working most of us not not even notice.

Peep peep

[gagnomchae]

Is it so easy a fix that no answer is required?

[trident_barclay]

Originally Posted by gagnomchae

Is it so easy a fix that no answer is required?

As was previously said, it could be no one has had this problem, so no one knows how to fix it. Also an answer was given.

It could be a known fault or a one off. In the UK alone there is around 70,000 i10's taxed on the road. And only about 200 or so are using this site.

You can either take the bumper off to access the horn and use a multimeter to check the circuit or take it to Hyundai and get them to look.

[shedloads]

Here's a couple of Pdfs that should help you chase the problem. The horn is in a pretty stupid place and it has been said before the front bumper has to be removed to gain access to it. Though I do recall someone posted about fitting a replacement (louder horn) by mounting the replacement somewhere more sensible and was able to remove the wiring without having to remove the bumper, I believe a front headlight removal was required though.

There is also a horn relay in the relay panel below the steering wheel. If after all these checks you do find it is the switch on the steering wheel use a Hyundai dealer to fix it, that's no go area for the untrained. For good reason they have not included that operation in the horn repair procedure. Perhaps they do not expect that Clockwork spring thing to fail anyway.

Most people on this forum are UK based and would use the 5 year warranty that comes with the car to fix any problems with the horn. So they have little practical advice to give you. I know of only one i10 horn failure and that was simply fixed by replacement under warranty.

horn diagram.pdf

horn repair procedure.pdf

[shedloads]

And Finally a picture of the Horn with the bumper removed on a RHD i10


horn photo.pdf

[shedloads]

And finally finally a Schematic of the horn cct.

The first thing to note is that the relay is always hot and supplied +12v via 10 amp fuse 31. When the horn switch is pressed a circuit is made to earth dependent on if an air bag is fitted via the "clock spring" or not.

This energises the relay's coil which in turn makes the relay contact to provide the Horn or Horns for the lucky Indian market with 12 volts and the Horn(s) peep peep to earth.

Not sure what the clock spring is about but obviously required if an air bag is fitted.

Relay terminals 3 and 5 on the schematic must be terminals 85 and 86 on the real M'coy and 1 and 2 represent 87 and 30 but not necessarily in that order. There could well be a convention that an auto electrician would answer.

Willing to bet it's either the relay or the horn that is at fault. As it is a standard relay obtaining and trying out a spare first is a lot easier than taking the bumper off.

For me what is interesting is that the 10 amp circuit will supply up to 3 horns one of them a twin horn and an isolation relay is already fitted.

Horn Schematic.pdf

[shedloads]

I should have done a google of clock spring. Basically wires bonded together in tape form and coiled up like a clock spring positioned at the centre of the wheel. This is wound up when the wheel is turned one way and unwound when the wheel is turned the other way and is mounted in a half wound state with the steering positioned dead straight.

The wires are for air bag sensors, detonators, horn switches, cruise control, radio etc. To replace is best left to a qualified technician, as it requires removing the air bag and steering wheel with obvious safety consequences if errors are made.

Loads of videos on You tube some hair raising as the main reason to change the spring is after air bag detonation when the connectors get damaged and many cost saving bodges are shown.