Hey folks, does anyone know what the size of the rear subwoofer speaker is? Has anyone replaced it with something better to increase the Bass ?
Where is the AMP located? Has anyone replaced the AMP to make the sound system better?
Just picked up my new car last night and I am already hating the sound quality... lol....
I was actually going to post this very question. I've updated the sound system on all my previous vehicles and would like to do the same for my Tucson. I have to say, the stock Infinity sound system is good but I believe it could always be better, louder, and way more bass.
Just checked on crutchfield.com and looks like the rear subwoofer size is 8". Also, front and rear door speakers are 6 3/4". Center dash speaker is 4". If replacing factory radio with aftermarket, you'll loose factory AUX and USB input connections. Also, you'll loose factory satellite radio capability. No wiring harnesses available for new speakers installed; will have to run and splice speaker wires from new aftermarket radio to new speakers.
Subwoofer location is listed as far back panel. They have a few pictures showing the locations of all speakers but for some reason they are not loading on my end.
Hope this info helps. Good luck and share with us if you upgrade your system/speakers/subwoofer.
What is powering the subwoofer? I swear that I don't even hear much bass at all in my car. Is there a way to select the Subwoofer - as the EQ with BASS +10 barely gives off much bass...nothing like a 8" sub should anyhow. I had a 6" subwoofer before and I could feel it in my chest.
Where is the AMP? Are all these speakers powered by the head unit ?
Without going into detail, on the Limited your kind of forced to keep the stock amp cause some of the audible safety and nav features use it. The way around this, (and it's what I've done) is to install a "factory sound processor" between your stock amp and aftermarket amp. Of course I replaced all the door speakers and sub but also unplugged the stock center speaker for better separation. It completely transformed the stereo but retains the factor head unit and amp. Crutchfield has a bounty of info on this but not necessarily the best deals. Do your own research.
To revive a dead thread, anyone think I can just take the speaker outputs from the factory amp and plug them into a Lc2i then to my aftermarket amp? Would this work?
Takes about 20-40hrs of run time for a speaker to break in. After break-in, then decide if its not what you want.
Factory system is designed around musical quality within the confines and limitations of the internal acoustics, weight/size limits,... of the vehicle. So, it isn't designed to make bass heads happy who want to thump around their 'hood. I pity those that have never heard real people write real music played on real instruments. Fake music is a joke.
I thought that the factory sub was a DVC. If so, use whatever 8" available 2-ohm dual voice coil subs that can fit and deal with the tiny volume of the stock box. If you go with aftermarket dsp+amp, its your choice whether you want single or dual voice coil, and whether you want to use 2-ohm or 4-ohm subwoofer.
If amp'd, x-over'd, and DSP'd properly, Partsexpress/Madison... DIY systems can put many of the fancy brand coaxials/components to shame. After dozens of installs over the last 30 years, I won't be paying for 'name brands' that don't deliver. Just got tired of underwhelming performance from overpriced speakers. Plug and play tends to be pathetic. The latest 'brand' fad is just that! Shop smartly with your budget.
I don't think anyone reasonably expects the factory system to "thump around in their hood". But it should at least be a well rounded system where you can actually hear and somewhat feel a bass guitar and drums.
My non amplified system in my tucson was total garbage. Even the midranges were severely lacking and there was zero bass. I love me some rock and on a song like Sabotage by the Beastie boys where the bass guitar is supposed to shine, you could barely hear it.
The factory subwoofer on the limited is only 40 watts, not really enough to move air from the back of the car to the front. I'm not saying they need to get into the 400watt+ range for thumping bass, but geez, at least get up to 100 watts so you can actually notice the subwoofer making a difference in your system.
I'm using an 8" kicker comp RT in the factory subwoofer box, and have the gain set with an oscilloscope to match my max listening volume, it's set at 300watts rms. It was a little boomy loud for my taste, so I have my pioneer set to -2db on the subwoofer channel and it perfectly balances out my entire system. Everything sounds great, the way a premium factory system should sound.
Can someone send me a link to where I can order the 'Sound Processor' required to install the new AMP/SUB. Also, what kind of wiring Kit (URL please) should I buy that won't break the bank ?
No wiring kit required, just cutting and reconnecting. If you are wiring challenged, I'd highly recommend you having the work done by a pro. All the info you need to get started is here:https://www.crutchfield.com/S-hfJ19gpVHQc/car/carselector.aspx
You will need an amp installation kit and RCA patch cables between the sound processor and your new amp.
No wiring kit required, just cutting and reconnecting. If you are wiring challenged, I'd highly recommend you having the work done by a pro. All the info you need to get started is here:https://www.crutchfield.com/S-hfJ19gpVHQc/car/carselector.aspx
You will need an amp installation kit and RCA patch cables between the sound processor and your new amp.
I'd recommend you consult your installer. They might have a preferred brand of DSP with a software program they're more accustomed to using. I'd recommend one with SPDIF input, preferrably coaxial input, you can then use a balun to wire it to an RCA connector: Digital Audio Balun | Muxlab
That kicker comp won't work, it requires a minimum box volume of 0.4cuft and it's not a shallow mount, so the 7 inch mounting depth may be too long. The Kicker Comp RT works, but the cage diameter is too wide, it requires trimming around the permitter or fabricating an adapter plate to make it work. Not a simple plug and play install. I used a grinder to make it fit.
I got an estimate to replace the Factory Sub and AMP installed:
From what I can see, as a best “guesstimate”, you’re looking at $240 for the amp SoundStream Picasso-Nano amp that is 350-watts, class D, $90 for the processor, $90 for a bulk wire install kit, $175 for the sub Cerwin Vega 8” v84dv2, and about 2 – 2.5 hours for install @ $94.50/hour. That adds up to about $830.
One of the main reasons for using the sound processor was to keep the factory amp. Reason was that some of your audible warnings and nav require it's use but your installer might know better.
The factory subwoofer box is only 0.3cubic Feet. It's a very small box, so you need a subwoofer that's designed to give good response in a smaller sealed box. Pretty much any shallow mount subwoofer will fit. The kicker comp RT is the best, but they'll need to fabricate an adapter bracket to make it fit because the rim on the trim cage is slightly too large in diameter. Or do what I did and just grind the crap out of it until it fits.
kicker comp RT - did you buy the 2ohm or 4ohm or 1ohm ? Why is there 3 types (sorry not knowledgeable in this stuff)
What AMP is good for this SUB?
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