Ok well in my case I took the car for a day from my fiancee and was going to take it to get the tranny serviced, but decided against it for several reasons. but I won't get into that....
What I did do was take the upper timing cover off to inspect the timing belt which still looked brand new(which it should cause it had been replaced within the last 30,000 miles). So that told me the timing belt wasn't the issue....
So I stopped by autozone and had them check to see if there were any codes that were present in the ECU. The only thing that was being read was the #2 cylinder had a misfire....Well that was the code that showed up before I had changed the plugs, wires and coils, so being that they will not clear the codes this was just an old code that had been stored in the memory.
While at AZ I picked up a new air filter and went on my way home....I took the engine cover off and basically was just looking for anything that looked out of place or loose. I took loose all the wires and coils and checked for any spots where the wires might have been arching/melted. None of that was present and I put a dolup of di-electric greese in the boots and wire ends and hooked everything back up checking to make sure everything was secure.
Buttoned everything up and installed new air filter and went for a drive....no hesitation and no studdering...Three days now since thats been done and the problem of the hesitation and stalling/studdering hasn't returned.
I would be very leary of the manifold being cracked or the Catylitic converter being clogged, although this has been a more recent development I've seen as a possible problem/cause for the noted problems of both our similar problems...
The thing with CC is that if they are going out there is a reason they are going out...as most have said when the cat has gone out their cars have seen signifigant fuel milage drop and signifigant power loss...On the other item they mentioned is if there was a crack in the manifold you would almost certainly know on the exhaust side there would be a noticalble noise from the exhaust that hadn't been present prior and you should be able to hear that, although if that is the case the car ECU would try to compensate with more fuel as the exhaust is escaping prior to the O2 sensors and cause the Catalytic converter to clog from excessive fuel being collected in the cat.
I would have the precat which is the one in front of the muffler, directly off the exhaust downpipe, removed and checked as these are VERY expensive to replace with the manufacturer equivilant or OEM, as an aftermarket cat is typically illegal and the shops won't replace them with an aftermarket replacement doesn't meet the factory and federal mandates for emissions regulations. And there a fairly steep fine if the shop replaces the factory cats with something other then an OEM approved product.
FYI....everything that I have posted here is as I have been told by either a licensed mechanic or aquired knowledge from being around cars and automotive repair....please take what I have said with that in mind. I may have not given 100% accurate info, yet what I have said I believe to be the truth....I only say this cause sometimes on these boards people can become very mean and nasty when someone gives advice/suggestions.
Hope your able to get to the root of your problem with out being charged for a guess at something to attempt to fix your problem.
QUOTE (TomRED @ Jul 8 2009, 03:47 PM)
I had the shop show me the manifold and precat. Both had significant damage. I have known the manifold was cracked for some time now. I was advised by the dealer, as well as heard the crack right after starting the car. I knew it was a problem, but didn't think it was a big one.
I am praying this fixes the jerking issue. $1500 so far.
I will update again after we drive on the freeway a couple times.
QUOTE (TomRED @ Jul 8 2009, 03:47 PM)
After dropping $1500 today, she is ready to walk away from this car.
Just got another call from the wife. It is jerking even harder, and now the check engine light is on. I will take it back tomorrow and say they did not diagnose the problem correctly.
Now that your check engine light is on with the jerking I would like to know if this is similar to a problem I had with mine recently. The thing that would make it similar would be if you are experiencing gearing issues.
See with my santa fe I got the huge sudden jerk and all of sudden was kicked from gears 1 and 4 and could only use 2 and 3. my CEL came on every time too. After dealing with the problem for about 3 months to the point where it happened every time I drove it we had it up at our local shop. They diagnosed it and returned with telling us we had a completely burned out shift sensor and had to pay about $400 to replace it (some belt issues as well).
Don't know if this seems to be what you're experiencing but hopefully it's close.
I have to ask from my own experience, have you changed the air filter lately? Cause that has seemed to really help my girls Santa Fe...Still running great, no problems...I don't get why it could be something so simple as an air filter, but its something that has certainly solved our problems...
QUOTE (TomRED @ Jul 9 2009, 03:13 PM)
Thanks. Yes, I changed it last week (about 500 miles now)
Here are the latest details about our car:
1. Spark plugs, oil & filter, and air filter were changed 7 days ago.
2. Picked the car up from Aamco Wednesday afternoon. Exhaust Manifold & precat were replaced. Mechanic test drove the car on the freeway and was not able to duplicate the problem. Said he was able to notice an improvement in engine response over what it was before the repair. The mechanic said the O2 sensor was a little dirty, but still looked to be in good working order.
3. Wife drove the car ~ 30 miles to play soccer later that night, and felt the car jerk during the drive. The Check Engine Light flickered independently of the engine jerks. (This is the first time we have seen the CEL come one while we’ve been dealing with this problem).
4. Wife drove the car home and did NOT feel the jerk or see any CEL.
5. I took the car back to Aamco Thursday morning, the CEL was NOT on. They checked it for codes, Nothing. They checked it for pre-codes, nothing. They test drove the car on the freeway (at cruisine speed, up a grade, and passing cars) with the code reader hooked up, Nothing. I took the car back, drove it down the freeway myself for ~16 miles, Nothing.
6. Thursday afternoon, my wife drove the car ~22 miles to a park, Nothing. A few hours later, she drove the car the car home. After ~7 miles the car started to jerk: about 12 jerks over a 3 – 4 minute period. My wife was trying to pay attention for a CEL and noticed the tach drops about 500 RPM with every jerk. This is the first time we’ve noticed a drop in revs, but it may be the first time we’ve really tried to watch it. She said these jerks felt to be the same as before. No CEL came on though.
7. We swap cars and I take it to Aamco (WITHOUT shutting off the engine) and ask them to scan for any pre-codes. Nothing is in the computer.
They offered to keep the car and drive it periodically, but they don’t have the man power to put in a lot of driving time. And I unfortunately don’t have an extra car available to me. This is very frustrating. Aamco advised they will not charge me any additional diagnostic time, but can’t try to track it down until they have a code to follow.
Any new thoughts? I will go through and re-check spark plug wire connections. I’ll even try to re-connect the battery.
If it is the CPS, how would I test that?
Thanks for all the help so far!
This is my first time using this so hopefully it gets through. I have finally found other people experiencing the same
proble I have experienced for the past three years. It will jerk and then it won't happen for 3-4 months.I have a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe and no one has been able to isolate it.
The dealer really had no idea either (thought maybe a sensor in the manifold) but that was not definite.
Seems like some sensor somwhere is not working all the time.
When I have codes read after it happens there are none to point to a problem.
The jerk normally occurs at highway speed 60-70 with or without cruise. It has happend once at
low speed while I was making a turn about 10mph. There is no change in the tach or any slippage of the transmission, just the annoying jerk.
Can't believe Hyundai does not have a fix but
they don't. So if someone figures it out it would be great.
QUOTE (pierun @ Jul 31 2009, 06:29 AM)
I replaced the crank sensor and the jerking stopped immediately. I have put on nearly 3000 miles now, and the jerking has not come back. I don't know if this is the same problem that you are having, but it was definitely bad in my case.
Some things to keep in mind:
I couldn't visually tell that the sensor was bad. There were no broken or worn wires or connectors that I could see.
Apparently Hyundais are known for having bad Crank Sensors. This is the second time one has gone out on me (once at 77,000 miles, again at about 115,000 miles)
Since the sensor is behind the timing cover, it is a big job to replace it. I think I paid $500 - $800 to have it replaced the first time. I apologize that I don't remember the exact figure. The second time I decided to replace it myself, but had to call a mechanic friend for help once I realized I had to remove a timing belt.
Again, I don't know if you are having the same problem as me, but I hope this helps.
Happy to see you solved your problem. I'm curious what you did with the shop that got you to drop all that money on the CC and the Exhaust Manifold.
On the CPS....How difficult was this? I'm wondering if this is something I need to prepare for or at least know how to do in the event that I need to do the same thing....I'd imagine its similar to the timing belt job other then the lack of need to retime/check the timing of the cams?
I would imagine you've been breathing quite a sigh of relief since doing the CPS fix?
I think this might be very helpful for those of us that have tried to chase down this problem and fix it.
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