|06-22-2009, 12:00 PM||#1 (permalink)|
Join Date: Oct 2008
2003 Santa Fe 2.7L AWD
I finally did my first timing belt replacement yesterday. While doing research I came across this post on the alt.autos.hyundai newsgroup. I found this information to be so invaluable, that I decided to re-post it here. (If someone recognizes his own writing - please accept my apologies for copyright violations and my great thanks for such a helpful work):
The dealer will charge you $600 plus tax to change your timing belt. Is it worth 6 or 7 hours of your time to save $500? Well, the belt itself will cost you only $90 at the dealer (ask for a 10% discount on the part). (I don't recommend using an off-brand belt. Why skimp just to save $20, when you're putting in 6 hours of labor?) So if you'd gladly put in 6 hours of labor to "earn" $500, read on.
I have a 2002 Santa Fe 2.7L 2WD, but any 2001-2006 2.7L Santa Fe engine should be pretty identical. Yesterday I replaced the timing belt. Took about 7 hours. One hour was figuring out how to get the crankshaft pulley off. It's not difficult - just a bit time-intensive to remove everything to get to the belt. If you have access to Chilton manuals or AllData, then you can get some pics to go with what I describe below.
Here's the basics for changing a Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L timing belt:
OVERALL: Everything is metric. You'll need a good metric socket set. In my opinion, the longer the socket wrench you have, the easier and quicker the job will go. You'll find most bolts are "stuck" and take a good amount of force to initially break loose. But with a long socket wrench, you don't have to push that hard to apply this force. Once the bolts initially break free, most of them can be unscrewed the rest of the way by hand. Seriously, having a long socket wrench will take an hour off the job. Also, a good air-driven impact wrench is a MUST for this job. You cannot complete the job without it (unless you have a special tool to hold the crankshaft pulley from rotating while unbolting it).
1. Remove the plastic engine cover. 5 or 6 bolts.
2. Remove the front passenger wheel. Put an extra jack stand underneath the car frame for safety. I actually dropped my vehicle on the rotor because the Hyundai Santa Fe's rear spare tire carrier bolt gets so rusty, it really shakes the car trying to unscrew it and get the spare tire out (and that's after two liberal dousings with WD-40) - the vibrations and shaking can cause the vehicle to fall off the wimpy car jack that comes with the vehicle.
3. Remove the plastic wheel well panel behind the front passenger wheel. It's held on by 3 or 4 bolts along the top of the panel. To see these bolts, you kinda have to get your head into the wheel well and look up at the top of the panel. Removing this panel gives you access to the front of the engine (which faces the passenger side of the vehicle).
4. Remove the serpentine accessory belt. Just take an extra-long socket wrench - the wrench's square fits in the end of the belt tensioner - and pull the tensioner clockwise to take tension off the belt, and then slip the belt off one of the pulleys. Easiest to do this coming through the wheel well, but could probably be done from above, too. The belt will not actually come completely off until you unbolt the tensioner.
5. Unbolt the serpentine belt tensioner. There are two long bolts that hold it on. Take the tensioner and serpentine belt off. You'll see that the tensioner covered a hole in the timing belt case, and through that hole you should now see a portion of the cogged timing belt.
6. Unbolt the power steering pump pulley. It's the top pulley in the middle. You'll need to stick something through one of the holes in the pulley to keep the pulley from turning as you unbolt it. I used a smaller socket wrench with a long socket on it, holding on to the socket wrench and sticking the socket through the pulley's hole, jamming the socket against the body of the power steering pump behind the pulley. Remove the nut and the pulley.
7. You may need to unbolt the cruise control module at this point in preparation for jacking the engine. I did as a precaution, but discovered that on the 2002 Santa Fe, I really didn't need to. However, I have read an internet post that pointed out that on their Santa Fe, failure to unbolt the cruise control module caused the cable to come uncrimped when the engine was jacked, and that caused the engine to race after everything was put back together. Unbolting the module prevents its cable from getting pulled too far when you jack the engine.
8. Place a block of wood on a hydraulic jack underneath the engine oil pan, and jack it up to support the front of the engine. ("Jack it up" here means to raise up the jack, not "mess it all up".) The oil pan is immediately below the front of the engine (just behind the pulleys).
9. Unbolt the front engine bracket and take it off. This is done from the top. One bolt on the vehicle frame side (on top of the wheel well) and three bolts and/or nuts on the engine side.
10. Remove the serpentine belt idler pulley. Easy to come off. No need to hold pulley from turning, because the bolt goes through to the engine. Be careful once you get the bolt off - basically you have this pulley sandwiched by two plates - make sure you don't lose the back plate and you know which way it goes back on the pulley.
11. Remove the other half of the engine bracket still attached to the engine. First, you'll need to remove the small bolt on this bracket that faces the front of the vehicle. This bolt holds on the engine oil dipstick tube. Then, you'll find another small bolt near the top of the bracket - this bolt is impossible to see, but you'll be able to feel for it. Access this bolt from under the hood. Then return to the wheel well and remove three large bolts and the bracket will be free.
Before you remove the crankshaft pulley, you'll need to make sure the timing belt is properly aligned. To do so, you must remove the top half of the timing belt cover next.
12. Remove top half of the timing belt cover, by removing three bolts around rear sprocket, three bolts around front sprocket, and one long bolt at the bottom of this cover. This cover only goes halfway down the engine, so you can get to all these bolts from the engine compartment. I believe they require a 10mm socket.
13. Once the top half of the cover is removed, you will want to locate the timing marks on the exposed sprockets. It's a little dot imprinted on the front of each sprocket. Best viewed looking under the hood from the passenger side. The dots need to be aligned with the timing marks on the engine case. The timing mark on the engine case for the left sprocket (towards the rear of the vehicle) is a little notch located at about 11:00, and the timing mark for the right sprocket (towards the front of the vehicle) is at about 1:00.
14. Once you've located the timing marks on the sprockets and the engine, put a long wrench on the crankshaft pulley center nut and rotate the pulley clockwise until you get the top sprocket timing marks in place. (The crankshaft pulley is the very bottom center pulley. You access it through the wheel well.) You'll notice that when you get the top timing marks in place, the crankshaft pulley timing mark will be more or less aligned with a protrusion on the timing belt cover (at about the 1:00 position). If the bottom pulley is not perfectly aligned with one of the marks, don't worry about it. The important thing is to have the top timing marks for both sprockets perfectly aligned. Once you remove the crankshaft pulley and bottom half of the pulley cover, you'll see that the crankshaft sprocket tooth is properly aligned. You'll also notice that you have to turn the crankshaft pulley two entire revolutions to get the top sprockets to turn a single revolution. They are geared exactly 2:1.
15. Soak the crankshaft pulley bolt with WD-40 where its shoulder meets the pulley. I found this to be important.
16. Use an air impact wrench to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt (counterclockwise). I found that the air impact wrench on maximum setting was enough to loosen the bolt without actually turning the crankshaft. It may take about half a minute to loosen up. If it doesn't want to come off, try some more WD-40 and let it sit awhile. If you try to use a socket wrench, you'll just end up turning the engine backwards. AN AIR IMPACT WRENCH IS A MUST TO DO THIS, unless you have a special tool to hold the crankshaft pulley still while turning its bolt counterclockwise. The crankshaft pulley bolt will come off along with a thick spacer.
17. Remove the crankshaft pulley. You'll probably need to wiggle it back and forth as you pull it straight off. The more you can wiggle it, the easier it is to come off. The pulley is "keyed" to the crankshaft with a pin (located now at about the 1:00 position). This pin will stay on the crankshaft, and will be what you use to make sure the crankshaft is aligned once you get the new timing belt on.
18. Remove the lower timing belt cover. 10mm socket is used to remove the 4 or so bolts holding it on (best accessed through wheel well).
19. Notice now that the crankshaft (where you pulled the crankshaft pulley off from) has its pin (the pin we mentioned in step 17) aligned with a timing mark on the engine. Take note of this alignment! You'll see the teeth on the crankshaft that drive the timing belt. One of these teeth is aligned with the pin, and therefore aligned with the mark on the engine.
NOTE: Take stock of how taut the timing belt is at this point. This is what the belt feels like under tension. It's pretty tense, right?
20. Remove the timing belt auto-tensioner. It is the cylinder-looking thing up and to the left of the crankshaft. Two bolts hold it on. Unbolt these bolts, and tension on the timing belt is released.
21. After removing the timing belt auto-tensioner, use a large C- clamp to slowly compress the pin in the auto-tensioner all the way, until you can slip a pin or smooth end of an old drill bit in through the little hole on the top of the auto-tensioner. This hole locks the tensioner's pin in the compressed position. Before you put the pin in, cover the pin with WD-40, and spray a little WD-40 in the little hole on the top of the auto-tensioner too (front and back). The pin should go all the way through from the front, through the center pin, and through the back. Enough of the pin (or old drill bit) should be sticking out the front so you can later grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it out).
22. Enough tension should have been released from the timing belt so you can now gently pull it off.
CAUTION: Be very careful not to rotate the belt at this point as you are taking it off, or as you are putting the new belt on. The reason is because the left top sprocket has its springs in the compressed position (at the top of the hill, so to speak). If you rotate this left top sprocket even one tooth, its compressed energy will cause it to rotate about 8 teeth, taking it out of timing with the crankshaft and the right top sprocket. This is the voice of experience talking.
CHECK: Check the idler and tensioner pulleys that they are in good condition, and turn freely with little to no play. Replace if needed.
23. Temporarily put the crankshaft pulley back on (no need to put its bolt in), and rotate the crankshaft pulley by hand back (counter clockwise) about 5 degrees. Shouldn't be too hard to do, because the crankshaft is not in a position where it takes much force to move at this point. Pull the pulley back off and check where you are at. Keep doing this until you have moved the crankshaft by one tooth. In other words, you need to rotate the crankshaft so that instead of the crankshaft pin being aligned with the mark on the engine, the tooth to the right (clockwise) of that pin is aligned with the mark on the engine. WHY DO WE DO THIS? Because there will be a little bit of slack between the right top sprocket and the crankshaft sprocket when you install the new belt. You'll find that after taking up this slack, the crankshaft will be properly aligned with the top sprockets. But don't worry. We'll be double-checking to make sure we got it right.
NOTE: The timing belt tensioner pulley is towards the left (towards rear of vehicle), and the idler pulley is towards the right (front of vehicle).
24. Put on the new timing belt in this order: First, put it on the crankshaft sprocket at the bottom. Next, from under the hood pull the timing belt snug against the idler pulley (don't pull hard - just enough to remove most of the slack), and wrap the belt counter clockwise around the right top sprocket (the sprocket towards the front of the vehicle). With the teeth of the belt engaged on the right top sprocket, pause to check the play in the belt between the sprocket and the crankshaft sprocket. Remember when you took stock of how taut the old belt was? The belt should not be this tight. But then, it shouldn't be so loose that it comes off the idler pulley. There should be just a little bit of slack, which will be taken up when you later on replace the crankshaft pulley. Continue wrapping the new timing belt around the water pump pulley (smack dab in the middle of the engine, between all 3 sprockets, and then back up around the left top sprocket (toward the rear of the vehicle). Make sure that there is AS LITTLE PLAY in the belt between the two top sprockets as possible. The belt should be nice and snug between these two. The belt should be pretty tight at this point. You should have just enough play left in the belt to muscle it over the tensioner pulley (which is currently not under tension). If that is so, you can be assured that your timing belt is probably properly installed.
25. Now we check the timing belt installation. DO NOT CHECK THE SPROCKET ALIGNMENT YET. FIRST WE HAVE TO ROTATE THE TIMING BELT CLOCKWISE TO DISTRIBUTE THE TENSION ON THE BELT PROPERLY. Bolt the tensioner pulley auto-tensioner back on (two bolts). In one quick movement, pull out the pin (or old drill bit) from the auto-tensioner with a pair of pliers.
26. Temporarily put the crankshaft pulley back on, and screw in on with its center bolt.
27. With a long wrench on the crankshaft pulley center bolt, rotate this pulley two entire revolutions until the two top sprocket timing marks have made one entire revolution and are lined up once again with the timing marks on the engine. As you start to rotate the crankshaft pulley, you should see the auto-tensioner pin come out and return to its normal length. The entire timing belt should return to the tension you observed on the old belt before removing the auto-tensioner. If not, then you need to remove the auto-tensioner and check it.
28. Remove the crankshaft pulley center bolt with the air impact wrench, and remove the pulley.
29. CHECK THE ALIGNMENT CAREFULLY. ALL THREE SPROCKETS SHOULD NOW BE ALIGNED TO THEIR TIMING MARKS. If even one timing mark is off, you'll need to pull the belt back off and reinstall. It is easy to see if a timing mark is off by one tooth. Just look at the belt and the sprockets and observe the distance from one tooth to the next. If any one of the three timing marks is off by this amount or more, your timing is maligned. But if the marks are off only a smidgen (a small fraction of the distance between two adjacent teeth), then your timing is aligned.
30. IF YOUR TIMING BELT IS MISALIGNED, GO BACK TO STEP 20. Note that it is easier to align the crankshaft individually than the top sprockets, so if the top sprockets are in sync with each other but out of sync with the crankshaft, turn the crankshaft until the top sprockets are aligned with their timing marks, remove the belt, then temporarily put the crankshaft pulley back on and adjust it.
NOTE: It is ok to turn the crankshaft back a few degrees if you need to. You may be able to do this by hand by just pushing the crankshaft pulley on the crankshaft (without its mounting bolt) and turning the pulley by hand. However, if you need to adjust the top sprockets, you'll probably need to turn the crankshaft in clockwise direction using a socket on its center bolt. However, if you need to go an entire revolution on one of the top sprockets, you'll need to do so with the timing belt installed, so the entire engine rotates more or less in sync.
NOTE 2: After each time you rotate the timing belt via the crankshaft pulley's center mounting bolt, you'll need to remove the crankshaft pulley via the air impact wrench.
31. IF YOUR TIMING BELT IS NOW ALIGNED (all three timing marks on the sprockets are lined up with the three timing marks on the engine) , IT'S TIME TO PUT EVERYTHING BACK TOGETHER, in the reverse order of what you took it off.
NOTES: When reinstalling the top half of the engine bracket (the one that attaches between engine and frame), you may need to jack the engine a little higher in order to get this bracket snug against the bottom half of the engine bracket.
DO NOT RESTART YOUR ENGINE UNTIL YOU WORK YOUR WAY BACK PAST STEP 4. (But don't put the vehicle in drive until you work your way back past step 2.)
|06-22-2009, 12:20 PM||#2 (permalink)|
Join Date: Oct 2008
2003 Santa Fe 2.7L AWD
My own two cents:
- I did not remove the cruse control module. Maybe it was an issue on 2002 model, but on my 2003 I did not see a need for it, didn’t do it and had no troubles with the cruise control.
- Maybe my impact wrench produces not enough torque - it failed to undo the crankshaft bolt. So I took a wrench with a deep socket, put in on the bolt, rotated the wrench till it rests on the subframe. Then I use the long plastic tube to press the wrench to the bolt (just in case, so it would not slip out and fly away) and engaged the starter for a half a second. Was enough to free the bolt.
- I did the belt installation differently, and I think with much less headache.
Before removing the old timing belt I put three marks on it – two at the troughs against the teeth with the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets, and the another one on the bottom tooth of the crankshaft sprocket (this tooth had no marks, so I marked it as well). Then after removing the old belt I transferred those marks on the new one, [b]counting teeth between marks, not merely putting the belts alongside each other!
Then I put the new belt on, in order as “hmaservice.com” manual recommends:
- crankshaft sprocket
- idler pulley,
- left (front) camshaft sprocket
- water pulley
- right (back) camshaft sprocket
- tensioner pulley
While putting the timing belt on, I made sure the marked troughs are going exactly against their corresponding marked teeth. I did not have to rotate the crankshaft, just pulled the belt hard. But it was not very difficult, and I got the correct timing on the first attempt. Without the marks I am pretty sure I would be off by one tooth on the first camshaft and two or three on the second.
- The necessity of the whole exercise remains in question for me... My car has ~59K miles on it. I replaced the timing belt, the idler and tensioner pulleys and the tensioner itself. I did not find any visible signs of deterioration on the timing belt. The pulleys had a very little play, rotated smoothly and without suspicious noise. So maybe the danger of your car turning into a pumpkin at the moment when the odometer display turns 60000 is just a little bit overstated...
|06-22-2009, 04:21 PM||#3 (permalink)|
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster, CO
2010 Genesis, 2009 Kia Sorento, 2008 Sonata, 2004 Jeep Cherokee
Belt Change Interval: the 60k interval is supposed to provide a safety margin for changing belt before 99% of expected failures. While there are inspection criteria for the timing belt listed in the owner's manual, your belt may look fine and show none of thee defects for impending failure.
having said all of that, I had a timing belt fail at 51k miles on a 2001 Sonata. As bad as changing a timing belt and taking 6-7 hours of your time, the risk of waiting is potentially thousands of dollars and absolutely getting two cylinder head rebuilds on a 2.7 liter Delta. Concur with buying Hyundai OEM parts, as the belt that failed prematurely was a Goodyear Gatorback, costing only $20 less than the dealer but with very little recourse for a premature failure.
Crankshaft Bolt: I have used the starter crank 1/2 second method to break the torque on the crankshaft bolt, but this is a last resort! An impact wrench is preferred. A 3/4 drive impact wrench normally rated at 400 lbs feet is better than a 1/2 drive impact wrench rated at 275 lbs feet.
Auto Tensioner: A vise works much better than a C-clamp to compress the pin. A brad or finishing nail works much better than a 1/8 inch drill bit to hold the pin in the compressed position.
Cruise control: no need to remove.
Missing Step: The author did include jacking the engine up without including the step that you must remove the engine mount block to get the old belt off and the new belt on. The jacking up is support the engine with the engine mounting block removed from the engine block.
Static Timing: Always Always turn the engine over by hand using a 22mm wrench Clockwise to match the timing marks up three times. this correctly distributes the little bit of slack, allows the auto tensioner to expand, and confirms that your timing is correct before you fire up the engine.
Where's my bailout?
|11-25-2009, 03:17 PM||#4 (permalink)|
Join Date: Jan 2005
Thanks for the great write-ups, just finished doing a TB on my friend's '05 Santa Fe. Just a few thoughts;
When taking the serpentine belt off, keep it ON the tensioner and remove with. It'd be pretty hard to try and fish it back on upon install (no, I haven't found that out the hard way).
To take the lower portion of the motor mount off, don't forget to look for that small bolt on top. It's hidden under the right (forward) camshaft pulley. I know it's in the write up, but somehow I've missed it when reading through. Why it's on there, I don't know though. Totally pointless if you ask me...
Before taking the old timing belt off (after aligning the marks), take a marker (touch up paint works great) and mark the TB on the bottom of the crankshaft (bottom tooth and the belt) and both camshafts (tooth with the dot and the belt). Then after you remove the TB, transfer those marks onto the new belt by COUNTING the teeth. Makes it very easy to align everything when installing the new belt.
I know this has already been covered, but those steps will definitely make the job easier!
|01-27-2010, 03:14 PM||#6 (permalink)|
Join Date: Apr 2009
It is true if you are able to do this on your own you can save a pretty penny. One downfall by not having your dealer do this would be the tensioner for the Timming belt. If you are the origianl owner and less than 100k miles that would be covered under your warranty. I'd HIGHLY recomend changing it while the engine is apart because failure of that part would be catastophic. The dealer would also replace any pulleys that show wear at no cost to you. So if you are the second owner it's definatly worth doing yourself, if you are the original owner maybe not.
Hyundai Parts Manager here, if I don't know I can find anything out.
|01-27-2010, 03:22 PM||#7 (permalink)|
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: South East England
Drives 2 XG's (2001 & 2002). Range Rover & Ford Escort Van
that's the advice that has always been given on this site..........whatever the model always change the belt tensioner when you are changing the timing belt. for the slight extra cost its not worth taking the risk
|06-28-2010, 09:39 AM||#8 (permalink)|
Join Date: Oct 2005
2013 Elantra Limited, Desert Bronze; 2013 Elantra GT, Shimmering Silver
I am in the process of doing mine now. The only differences I noted were on step 11, the removal of the 2nd part of the mount. I only had the dipstick mounting bolt and the 3 big ones on the passenger side. There was no 'hidden extra bolt' on it. However, to get to the third big mounting bolt, I had to remove the crankshaft pulley and the lower cover first. Then I could access the third one and away it came. All in all though, it is a very good straightforward article and much thanks to U96 for the step by step procedure.
A Shovel, and a 55-Gallon drum, can solve many of life's little "irritants"..
|07-09-2010, 08:59 PM||#9 (permalink)|
Join Date: Jul 2010
Ok, I just did the timing belt on my friend's 2003 Sonata 2.7, and I've got one comment and one question.
One of the engine mount bolts on the block is obscured by the lower timing belt cover, so that has to go on AFTER the mount is bolted up...I was a little frazzled by the time I was reassembling and was following the instructions in reverse order as suggested, and had the covers and crank pulley reinstalled...had to take them all off again to bolt up the mount.
Speaking of the crank pulley...that's my question...how was I supposed to get it to 135 ft-lbs (since the engine just turns over)? I hit it with the impact wrench for a second or two and saw it move some, but I really have no idea how tight it is...I'm figuring it would be a really bad day for my friend if that bolt came loose...
EDIT: I see Propflux noted my engine mount problem already...but it's worth repeating...I really wasn't in the mood to take stuff apart after I finally got it back together.
|07-14-2010, 03:47 PM||#10 (permalink)|
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: winston salem, nc
2004 Santa Fe GLS 2WD, 2.7L V6 Black; 2005 Tucson 4WD 2.7L V6 white;
I just did the change on my wife's 05 Tucson 2.7L V6. I found that placing 2 philip head screw drivers into the fly wheel teeth prevented the crank shaft from turning when I was removing and installing the crankshaft bolt. Just remember to remove the screw drivers before you start the car or you'll be doing a flywheel replacement.
Here is a write up with pictures that I made with the help of other forum writers and my personal experience. This is for the 05 Tucson 2.6L V6. It's pretty much the as the 01-04 Santa Fe's. Not sure about the G2 Santa Fe's.
Disclaimer: I am not responsible for you messing up your car repair. Use the guide as just another tool in helping with the job.
|Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)|