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#1 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 1
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I own 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe V6. Around January, the check engine light came one. So, I brought my car to Advance Auto Parts. They read the code and reset OBD for me because we figured out that the gas cap was not tighly secured.
Last week, in order to get the emission tested, I brought my car to the local emission testing center. After the testing, they told me that my car's OBD was not ready and I needed to drive more in order to create enough data in the OBD. Today, I brought the car again for another emission testing. They said that I need to drive more. When checking about this information, I have discovered that I need to complete the drive cycle of Hyundai Santa Fe. But it usually takes 200-500 miles. Considering the time when the OBD was reset in Janauary, I drove at least more than 1000 miles. Do you tihink the OBD is malfucntiong in my vehicle? The reason I am asking here is that the city I live is full of scam. I don't want to get ripped off for no reason. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 28
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Hello,
I am not a mechanic, but I have read up a bit on the drive cycle, when I was having problems with my wifes car after clearing OBD codes. I am sure someone else can elaborate on here more, but the way I understand it, certain things need to be accomplished. Driving in certain conditions, I do not know what exactly they are but it is a possibility that some of those conditions have not been met. With a quick Google search I found this. Hope it helps... Generic OBD II "Drive Cycle" Most OBD II ("On-Board Diagnostics II") diagnostic monitors will run at some time during normal operation of the vehicle. However, to satisy all of the different Trip enable criteria and run all of the OBD II diagnostic monitors, the vehicle must be driven under a variety of conditions. The following drive cycle will (theoretically) allow all monitors to run on (??) vehicle. (Note: Drive cycle specifics vary by vehicle!) 1. Ensure that the fuel tank is between 1/4 and 3/4 full. 2. Start cold (below 86°F /30°C) and warm up until engine coolant temperature is at least 160° F (typically requires at least one minute; up to 3 minutes). 3. Accelerate to 40-55 MPH at 25% throttle and maintain speed for five minutes. 4. Decelerate without using the brake (coast down) to 20 MPH or less, then stop the vehicle. Allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds, turn the key off, and wait one minute. 5. Restart and accelerate to 40-55 MPH at 25% throttle and maintain speed for two minutes. 6. Decelerate with using the brake [or the clutch!] by coasting down to 20 MPH or less, then stop the vehicle. Allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds, turn the key off, and wait one minute. Victor |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
This being the case, the bureaucrat in the testing station might have to actually do a little testing rather than solely relying on a computer to tell him what's what.
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#5 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 3
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I had the same problem with my 4cyl manual transmission '01 Santa Fe. My on board computer would not go into ready status. the dealer finally got it into ready status but as soon as he turned it off, the system erased all he had done. I was told I had a bad ECU. I bought an LKQ ECU from salvage yard for $50 (dealer wanted to charge $100 for the part alone!).
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#6 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster, CO
2010 Genesis, 2009 Kia Sorento, 2008 Sonata, 2004 Jeep Cherokee
Posts: 2,928
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Dear glee,
Normally the ECU will relearn your driving style within 50 miles, and the same for the TCM for your shift points for an automatic transmission. Something is wrong. You do not mention which state you are in, but I can't imagine a state requirement to have 7 months of driving history to pass your Santa Fe for emissions. Try a different test station. Byron
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