Blower Switch Issues - Update

[Hyundai_81]

blower switch again has quit on me. no surprise there, but they finally investigated deeper and found and what hopefully is the culprit of this shinanigans and appears to them its the blower motor but infact the resistor inside is done or weak as they appear to say, so I hope this fixes the problem and I wish they would of done this when the vehicle had some warrenty left.. but with paperwork saved I think I still might be or should be in luck and still get it under warrenty. seeing how this has been goin on for some time now. if they wont honour it I will be writing hyundai canada a letter and the dealership wants to charge me $387(includes taxes, labour and part) thats insane.. a blower motor is done in 7 years.. thats retarded. my fathers 94 dodge caravan has original blower switch and motor and still works like a charm til this day! I sure ain't going to buy another hyundai again they cost to much to maintain. next time its going to be a dodge or chev. anyways enough rambling on just giving everybody an update on my problem and will be getting my santa fe back on tuesday. so I hope this better be the end of this problem and be fixed once and for all.

[whacker]

Just be glad your not in Atlantic CDA..

Parts here are more expensive then Toronto area,
I have had Parts sent from there to her with Puralator, for less then buying at a Dealer 40 KM away...

There's days when I believe Hyundai, sell cars cheap, and try and make money with Parts.

Personally I have had good success buying Parts at a Junk Yard, that however can present problems If your not able to do the work yourself...

1st and Last Hyundai for me as well!

Hope your heater problem is solved

whacker

[Hyundai_81]

thanks whacker.. and they say hyundai is number one.. I see it clearly now yea number one in sales which they look at and there cheap price wise but sucks when you have to maintain it. wallet is always empty to fix it all the time. the quality and reliability is just not there, they seem to build them so when warrenty is off then then it breaks all the time and parts wear out way too soon, well they got it rigged well then there making a killing of service and parts. I have lost all hope of buying a hyundai again, at first I was going to buy again, but then all the repairs happened and the cost of maintaining it.. no thanks changed my mind pretty quickly.. I am not much of a ford fan but I think even ford can do better then hyundai, LOL!

[johnaauld]

Originally Posted by Hyundai_81

thanks whacker.. and they say hyundai is number one.. I see it clearly now yea number one in sales which they look at and there cheap price wise but sucks when you have to maintain it. wallet is always empty to fix it all the time. the quality and reliability is just not there, they seem to build them so when warrenty is off then then it breaks all the time and parts wear out way too soon, well they got it rigged well then there making a killing of service and parts. I have lost all hope of buying a hyundai again, at first I was going to buy again, but then all the repairs happened and the cost of maintaining it.. no thanks changed my mind pretty quickly.. I am not much of a ford fan but I think even ford can do better then hyundai, LOL!

The pasture is always greener in the other side of the hill.

[orrider]

Emotions can run deep but won't resolve problems. I've had service problems with just about every make I've owned, including Hyundai. Rational discussions are the only hope in getting things done. Let's face it, cars have become extremely complex and to make that many components function reliably is a marvel in engineering by any definition. Every manufacturer is in the same boat while constantly having to compete in a very volatile price market. If I were to use your measuring stick then Honda would come out at the bottom of my list of cost versus reliability. Ford would be next, etc. Let's face it, it's always a numbers game and in the end the consumer pays for everything, regardless. Unfortunately some more than others.

[Hyundai_81]

ok so now back from the dealership and they now tell me the blower motor is fine and tested ok plus they checked all the wiring and looks good so in the end they tell me the blower switch was defective.. defective are you frickin kidding me! so I guess all other 18 or so was defective to.. seems to me there still beating aroind the bush.. so anyways they put the old blower motor back in and the fan wouldnt work even with the new blower motor and put a new switch in and it works fine now.. so what else could it be.. I was told my a friend and hes a GM mechanic and asked me if my vehicle had a Body Contol Module.. is there such thing on these hyundai's or in my case my santa fe?? or possible could be a defective relay? those are some of the ideas he gave me on whatelse it could be..so basically I got nowhere still and another new switch and waiting for the next one to be installed in a year or less.. grrrr this sooo frustrating.

[whacker]

Have they told you what exactly is the Failure

- is it only one position, or all three positions that fail

- are the contacts getting warm and melting in the body of the switch causing an open cct

- are the contacts arcing and causing a high resistance at the connection point

never looked at one of these, however a good Mechanic, should be able to tell you what exactly the Failure is..

Do you have the old switch , can you take some pictures and post them.

There have been some posts I have read about crap getting into the impeller on the fan, and how difficult the fan is to get out, maybe there's an issue with the Fan and the housing it's in
It is all wedged in quite awkwardly behind the glove box, bad installation?
Possibly jammed in there so that when running it is drawing a bit more current then normal

Just thinking out Loud

whacker

[paul03]

Hi 81,
Checked the schematics of the blower motor system.
It's a simple thing, the motor attached directly to Battery+ via an ignition key controlled relay. The ground is switched to the motor into 4 settings.
High setting switches ground directly to the motor so maximum current.
Lower settings via a multi stage series resistor. The lower the setting, the higher the resistance, the lower the current, the slower the motor.
There isn't much to go wrong if the schematics is correctly connected.
So I wonder if maybe they misconfigured the connections to motor and resistor.
When f.i. the resistor is electrically put in parallel over the motor, when you select low speed, the motor will go slow, but the current through the resistor will be at it's maximum, maybe frying the switch and maybe also resistor.
I suppose you should measure the currents at each switch setting.
Normal would be maximum current at the high motor setting, consequent lower currents at lower settings. You could undo the fuse and put in the current meter there. The engine need not be running, only ignition switched on.
If you see a different current pattern, the resistor is hooked up incorrectly and should be corrected according to the schematics.
When the motor is detached, the resistor and switch may not show any voltages.
Good luck,
Paul

[whacker]

Re Current

That's basically what I imagined, regarding switch hookup...

Not haven taken the switch apart on one of these, I can imagine that there's a connector to the switch..

Unless someone monkyed and pulled the terminations out of the connector body, I can't imagine a problem with that...

I wonder what current should be drawn in the Various positions...

Is that info available

More likely though is that the inrush current on start is higher the it should be, or continues currant draw to high as a result of bad windings in motor or some mechanical resistance during rotation..

I'm not sure that checking inrush current to the blower fan motor is described in the HMA Bulletins or the Manuals

Likely it's like everything else, If this then replace this, etc

Is the resistor in the Motor?
Incorrect connection there, should be a factory issue, bad Quaulity Control.
Also, likely with these Korean Kreations

I've repaired switches on a variety of vehicles over the past 40 years, and found either
A Contacts, carboned and pitted, new switch 40$ or clean Contacts Priceless, Arcing causes this on switch open and close as result of inrush current
B contacts actually melted into the body of the housing, causing them not to close when they should be, to much current causing metal switch contacts to get too hot and melting the retaining points of the switch housing

C Thermal Fatigue, the metal that the contacts are made of actually losses it's "springyness" thru heat cycling, thus not offering proper contact pressure to close properly

These have been my observations, and any of those points are possibilities.

Common practice apparently is to switch out modules, until "God willing Luck" is recognized

whacker

[paul03]

To me it also seems a bit strange these switches keep going bad.
The fuse, think it's number 9 for the A/C, is 10 Amps, so I suppose the motor will be somewhat 5 to 8 amps maybe. This wil be (at 13.5 volts) 80 upto 100 Watts. When put in low setting maybe 2 to 3 amps?
I cannot imagine switches are being fried by those currents.
Maybe only when always put in the high setting ??
Inrush current only occur during short times at startup so hardly able to fry the switch. According to the drawing it is a slider switch, so also a bit firm outlined.
Good luck,
Paul