Spedometer, Tachometer, Gas Gauges not working

[GFAudette]

So, we've had this intermittent issue, but I've not been able to get a completely encompassing answer from a lot of web-surfing. I do apologize if I have missed the exact thread elsewhere.

Here goes:

We have an intermittent (now more regular) issue on our 2005 SF of the instrument cluster (tachometer, speedometer, gas gauge, temp gauge) sitting at zero - no motion whatsoever. In the summer months, the gauges came on after a while of AC being on, which I thought odd. But it just happened here in October (and the temp is just around 5C/41F) so a temp issue is unlikely. No OBD codes that we know of, all the fuses are fine, and while we did have a PCSV issue earlier this year, it did not seem to affect this particular issue with the gauges.

Threads such as the one below seem to say that it is the speedometer that is wacky... 01 Santa Fe Speedometer Not Working! , and the general solution to the problem/issue is to replace the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) and associated gear mechanism. And on a different thread, Input Output Speed Sensors , it was suggested that the problem could be addressed by changing the input and output sensors.

Nothing I saw (again apologies if I missed a particular thread) addressed this exact issue of a combined total loss of gauge function in the instrument cluster. Has anyone had this issue that was fixed by changing the VSS or input/output sensors? I'm willing to get this done by my mechanic, but having them hunt for hours to find the issue is fairly excessive and overly expensive (which we had for our previous PCSV issue).

Cheers

[johnaauld]

Originally Posted by GFAudette

So, we've had this intermittent issue, but I've not been able to get a completely encompassing answer from a lot of web-surfing. I do apologize if I have missed the exact thread elsewhere.

Here goes:

We have an intermittent (now more regular) issue on our 2005 SF of the instrument cluster (tachometer, speedometer, gas gauge, temp gauge) sitting at zero - no motion whatsoever. In the summer months, the gauges came on after a while of AC being on, which I thought odd. But it just happened here in October (and the temp is just around 5C/41F) so a temp issue is unlikely. No OBD codes that we know of, all the fuses are fine, and while we did have a PCSV issue earlier this year, it did not seem to affect this particular issue with the gauges.

Threads such as the one below seem to say that it is the speedometer that is wacky... 01 Santa Fe Speedometer Not Working! , and the general solution to the problem/issue is to replace the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) and associated gear mechanism. And on a different thread, Input Output Speed Sensors , it was suggested that the problem could be addressed by changing the input and output sensors.

Nothing I saw (again apologies if I missed a particular thread) addressed this exact issue of a combined total loss of gauge function in the instrument cluster. Has anyone had this issue that was fixed by changing the VSS or input/output sensors? I'm willing to get this done by my mechanic, but having them hunt for hours to find the issue is fairly excessive and overly expensive (which we had for our previous PCSV issue).

Cheers

Have you had the instrument cluster out before? There are three connectors behind the cluster panel. Perhaps one of these connectors is barely making contact. If you remove the two screws that go in vertically into the plastic bezel that holds it in place, you can pull the bezel and then remove the four screws that hold the instrument panel in place. You can carefully pull out the panel then and re-seat the connectors.

[GFAudette]

Originally Posted by johnaauld

Have you had the instrument cluster out before?

We did have the cluster assembly and junction box replaced a few years back under warranty. I'm not sure if that would have required the instrument cluster on the dashboard to be out...and I don't recall having this particular issue directly after that warranty service (I don't see any notes to that effect from the time in my records) or before it. A loose contact could explain things...I'll have to take a look.

[paul03]

You cannot presume all your sensors have gone bad for all those gauges.
I myself had wacky gauges at startup (speedo, revs, gas etc.) after I had pulled the 10A fuse for the interior and door attention lights (internal fusebox).
At startup all the gauges jumped up to the max and then down again, settling at normal indications after a second or so. Very strange. After putting that fuse back everything normal.
So there seems some other power connection (you mentioned AC).
Furthermore, the clusters electronics and meters get its main power from the ignition switch voltage. But not a fuse issue because otherwise the engine wouldn't even run. So indeed maybe loosened connector at the rear of the instrument cluster. Open it by undoing the 2 screws on top and pulling the cluster (gently) out.
Good luck,
Paul

[GFAudette]

So I took a look a the instrument cluster. I resat all connections, and still no luck. The speedo, odo, tach, temp and fuel gauges are not working. The cluster itself is getting power as it lights up (and the door open etc lights come on at the appropriate times). And I noticed that the odo does not light up, and it's "stuck" (not counting). The missus forgot to tell me about the non-lighting up odo. In addition, I get lights to P/R/N/D, but when I move it to "manual/sport" mode, I do not get light to the gear number just under the D in the cluster.

I will be looking at the fuses in a more systematic way next, but am a bit confused. Any ideas? Thanks.
Cheers,
Gerald

[paul03]

Ok Gerald,
It's not about lighting of the gauges etc. It's about power to them.
It's a so called MICOM chip in the cluster, tying all the sensor signals together, and providing output to your gauges.
It gets its power from the ignition key switch. Check at pin A18, connector at the rear, on top of tacho, nearest to the single connector B underneath.
Pin 2nd next to tacho lamp, is the 12v ign.
Further the A17 pin has ground (minus).
If not present at A18 (with key turned!) you might be lucky, maybe "only" wiring or connections, otherwise the electronics chip could be fried, needing a new instrument cluster.
Chip controls speedo, tacho, temp, fuel gauges and low fuel light.
Instrument lighting has nothing to do with it.
You can check the bulbs when the cluster is out. Simply turn the holders.
GOOD LUCK!
Paul

[hllywd62]

When you had the cluster out did it have a printed circuit board on the rear of the cluster?? I had issues in my elantra with gauges not working and that turned out to be the problem, its an easy fix....again, not sure if this applys...the printed circuit board is like a green film on the back of the cluster, with copper lines running all thru it....

Charlie

[jw357]

Here's the deal! My speedometer and tach have stopped working. The gas and temp gauges still work. I took it to the dealership and had it fixed however it stopped working 12 hours later. Could it be in the cluster or is it something else?

[paul03]

The tach and speedo are 2 separate speed signals. If both fail you cannot presume both sensors have gone faulty at exactly the same time.
There is another fault, maybe the ignition keyed +12 voltage within the cluster somewhere has a break, or a ground is missing. You can check at the connectors as mentioned some posts before this one. Maybe the ignition key voltage does not arrive at the cluster.
Or the MICOM contrtoller chip itself has gone bad.
When the dealership was able to fix it (or did it repair itself by chance) they must be able to tell you what they fixed (or not).
So it can be in the cluster or it is something else.
Good luck,
Paul

[jw357]

Originally Posted by paul03

The tach and speedo are 2 separate speed signals. If both fail you cannot presume both sensors have gone faulty at exactly the same time.
There is another fault, maybe the ignition keyed +12 voltage within the cluster somewhere has a break, or a ground is missing. You can check at the connectors as mentioned some posts before this one. Maybe the ignition key voltage does not arrive at the cluster.
Or the MICOM contrtoller chip itself has gone bad.
When the dealership was able to fix it (or did it repair itself by chance) they must be able to tell you what they fixed (or not).
So it can be in the cluster or it is something else.
Good luck,
Paul

At the time the dealership told my wife that it was a "ground wire". I simply overlooked it as the dealer just giving her a simple answer just so they would not have to explain in great depth. Is the MICOM chip same as the ECU?