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Old 05-24-2012, 10:42 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barnyspup View Post
How disappointing that you don't get any reading at all.
Was the meter set for DC Volts? Not AC Volts.

But you do have some other "phantom" issues.
If one brake light works, the other should, too.
And the trunk light not working.

Hmmmmmmmmm

I'm going out on a limb here, but corrosion of harness components is an all too common event on these. Wiring in the rear fender well areas is vulnerable especially. I don't want to send you on a goose chase but keep this in mind if you don't find a logical reason for those lights not working.
K. Not really sure if it was AC or DC, haha. Would it help to say it was on the same setting that I usually check the battery on?
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Old 05-24-2012, 10:52 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Yes, same setting as battery check is OK.
Does it have some Range selection choices?
It may not be set to read very small voltages.

Back in the AM.

Jim
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Old 05-24-2012, 10:55 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Barnyspup View Post
Yes, same setting as battery check is OK.
Does it have some Range selection choices?
It may not be set to read very small voltages.

Back in the AM.

Jim
Thanks. It was set to read up to 20 (should I set it to 2 next time?). I'm also gonna take out all the faulty lights, the cig lighter, and the center dome light in case they are causing the issue
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Old 05-24-2012, 11:37 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Here's a fairly important update.

Autozone told us the batter was bad and gave us another one (same make date, manuf) under warranty.

I told the guy that we had a battery before this with the same issue and he said it could also be the terminals were bad (since he saw one had a piece wedge in it to get a good connection)..

My gf says she bought the battery first, then we ended up having the problem again and replacing the alternator.

If that's the case, and the new alternator they gave us was still bad, could that have taken down the battery again with it? Maybe we should keep looking for a short?
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Old 05-25-2012, 07:41 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
(should I set it to 2 next time?)
Yes.

Ah. Another bad battery!
As long as the alternator puts out 14V the battery should be OK.

LMK what you find about the lights.
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Old 05-26-2012, 12:50 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Well we put in the new battery. I took out cig lighter, overhead door light, trunk light (which was WORKING now, oddly enough), and the bad brake light). My gf says now that the door open indicator (on the dash I believe, but i'm confirming just to be sure) no longer comes on when the door is open.

Also, the positive terminal is very loose, even if we tighten it all the way it pulls right off. Any place to get good replacements?

Also the light test checked out, the most I got was .003 or so with the parking light on
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Old 05-26-2012, 03:28 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Question for ya Barney (or anyone), I just put the new battery in and did everything as i mentioned in the previous post. On the way to work my gf noticed the open door indicator light was not coming on.

When she came back home, she noticed that the 'no seat belt' noise lagged before coming on, and later wasn't coming on at all.

Could this be because I let her drive the car with a loose positive battery terminal?

I would think that since the alternator is doing all the work once the car is on, that wouldn't be the problem??
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Old 05-26-2012, 08:13 AM   #38 (permalink)
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What was wrong with the brake light??

Yes, the door open light is in the cluster.

No, I don't think the loose battery terminal caused these indicators to fail. But it could (maybe) have led to alternator failures.

Most immediate is getting the battery terminal fixed. See if that clears up any other issues or start over again.

Lead Battery Terminals | WiringProducts.com
shows some of the more common terminals available.
You'll have to get a bit creative. There are actually 2 cables on the Pos post; thick one to starter and smaller one to fuse box.

Jim
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Old 05-26-2012, 02:32 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barnyspup View Post
What was wrong with the brake light??

Yes, the door open light is in the cluster.

No, I don't think the loose battery terminal caused these indicators to fail. But it could (maybe) have led to alternator failures.

Most immediate is getting the battery terminal fixed. See if that clears up any other issues or start over again.

Lead Battery Terminals | WiringProducts.com
shows some of the more common terminals available.
You'll have to get a bit creative. There are actually 2 cables on the Pos post; thick one to starter and smaller one to fuse box.

Jim
Thanks Jim. She drove it for a total of less than 10 minutes, so hopefully it didn't kill the alternator again. I took out the brake light and the other lights that were not working to try and rule them out as the cause of the issue.
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Old 05-27-2012, 09:46 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Here's the update so far, thanks for all the help.

So we put that other battery in after Autozone gave us another one as a warranty replacement. I must've done something wrong because apparently after working on the car the audio fuse was blown.

Today we replaced the positive terminal, audio fuse, AND found that the cig lighter fuse was broken (which is a good thing since it wasn't working and hopefully that should solve it). I've tested the radio, and cigarette lighter and they seem to be working fine now (and they haven't caused the fuses to blow again). I'm leaving out the 3 unnecessary bulbs I took out.

Did a few tests, all the voltages seem to be right, battery is charging correctly, and all is right in the world. Now... we wait. I'd like to get the dome light back in there but I'm too worried it might bring back the issue haha
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