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Old 04-10-2011, 10:57 AM   #1 (permalink)
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RottenRon
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Hello to all, I'm new to the forum so I'm not sure if this topic was talked about before but here's my problem. I have a 2001 1.6L accent with an automatic and 82K on it. The car was running great, I parked at 7/11 then when I went to leave the car had no reverse. I pushed it out of the stall only to find that the only had 1st gear. Then at around 4500 rpm the car shifted into 3rd and would not not come out unless I shut the car off. I surfed the web some and was told the speed sensor / pulse gen. would be a good place to start - only $27 so I changed it. The problem is still there and now I'm told that I should change the trans temp sensor because it is in fail safe mode. So, before I chase parts all over this car I'm asking all of you for help.
Thanks - Ron
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Old 04-10-2011, 09:50 PM   #2 (permalink)
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JDMAC
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QUOTE (RottenRon @ Apr 10 2011, 10:57 AM)
Quote:
Hello to all, I'm new to the forum so I'm not sure if this topic was talked about before but here's my problem. I have a 2001 1.6L accent with an automatic and 82K on it. The car was running great, I parked at 7/11 then when I went to leave the car had no reverse. I pushed it out of the stall only to find that the only had 1st gear. Then at around 4500 rpm the car shifted into 3rd and would not not come out unless I shut the car off. I surfed the web some and was told the speed sensor / pulse gen. would be a good place to start - only $27 so I changed it. The problem is still there and now I'm told that I should change the trans temp sensor because it is in fail safe mode. So, before I chase parts all over this car I'm asking all of you for help.
Thanks - Ron
I had to replace my transmission at 90K km as all i had was Rev .
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Old 04-11-2011, 12:04 AM   #3 (permalink)
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mk2grimace
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are your tail lights all good? they had a weird feature with the lockout for the auto, if the tail light fuse or circuit was stuffed you couldnt select reverse. not sure if it allowed any other gears tho...
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Old 04-11-2011, 11:42 AM   #4 (permalink)
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71chevyvan
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just a thought. when was the last time you replaced the transmission oil and filter?
if you haven't done it the last 50k miles or so your filter may be clogged.
barry
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Old 04-13-2011, 08:18 AM   #5 (permalink)
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jnansley
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Unplug the solenoid connector. This will tell you if the problem is mechanical or electrical. When you're looking in the driver's side wheel well at the area of the transmission above the left front corner of the pan, you'll see a large electrical connector (6 pins), and a smaller one directly rear of that one (ATF temperature.) You may need to remove the splash shield. The larger connector is the one that needs to be unplugged. I forget the exact way to remove it, I used a smallish flathead screwdriver to both disengage the lock and gently pry upward on the connector once I was convinced the lock was disengaged. Just take your time, if you're doing it correctly it should come off easily. You should not need to remove the metal clip from around the base. When reconnecting it, make sure to clean the area first so you're not cramming dirt into it.
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Old 04-13-2011, 08:25 AM   #6 (permalink)
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jnansley
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With the connector unplugged, you will only get third gear when going forward - don't panic, this is normal.
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Old 04-18-2011, 12:26 AM   #7 (permalink)
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ashishm02
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Hi RottenRon, did you do the test that jnansley suggested? Just curious on what was the outcome?


Regards,
John M.
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Old 04-18-2011, 12:53 PM   #8 (permalink)
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ashishm02
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This has to be the weirdest thing, but I called my sister last night and she is having the same problem(no reverse, stuck in first gear). She has a 02 Hyundai Accent 1.6L. So, I tried removing the solenoid connector jnansley suggested, but it still will not go in reverse.

Jnansley(or anybody) have any clue on what this means? Does this mean it is not an electrical problem? Because, if I am removing power to the solenoids, won't they not budge when I put the car in reverse?

Any help is appreciated.


Thanks,
John M.
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Old 04-22-2011, 08:06 AM   #9 (permalink)
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jnansley
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The computer can prevent you from shifting into reverse if it's not getting correct results from the pulse generators and inhibitor switch.

Just for kicks, make sure that everybody is waiting for a number of seconds with the shifter in R - it is possible that it will shift, just not immediately. That doesn't make things better, it just lets you move your car.

You should theoretically check your shift linkage, but since reverse is between park and neutral, I'm betting that if P and N do what they're supposed to do, then R is too.

If you can't shift into reverse immediately with the solenoids unplugged, you're in pretty bad shape. While it COULD be something as "simple" as replacing the filter or the valve body, it also could be the front clutch or the low-reverse brake, neither of which you can service on the vehicle like the end clutch.

So, you have to make a decision about whether you want to risk any sunk costs on troubleshooting the problem, or if you want to go straight to the transmission shop.

---

The correct way to begin things is with a pressure gauge. There are marginally cheaper ones available, but I was really pleased with the readability of the high pressure dial on this one:

http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-5610.aspx

This is a specialized tool you will very rarely use. I can't say whether or not it will pay for itself, but I'm happy I bought it. After replacing my end clutch bearing, I found that the line pressure was 5PSI too high - hopefully lowering it will extend the life of the new one.

If the front clutch and low/reverse brake pass the pressure test, then the transmission needs to be rebuilt / replaced. If they don't, or if you don't have a pressure gauge, then you can try replacing the filter, and then doing the air checks.

---
This is going to be time consuming and messy. I'm just going to quickly go over my notes on the procedure, without any diagrams.
---

CAREFULLY remove the valve body. I found that mine didn't just drop out when unbolted, but that there was some sort of glue the factory had used to hold it in place. I had to gently use a small pry bar on carefully chosen spots, working my way around. (This is after you've removed all nine of the bolts with larger heads, keeping track of where they came from.)

The manual valve slides in and out of the valve body on the driver's side as you move the shift lever. Mine stayed in place when I removed it, I believe I had the shifter in P. If not, it'll just fall on your head and roll around on the ground. Try to keep that from happening. Oh, the valve body is heavy.

Use an air gun with a rubber tip to blow LOW pressure compressed air into the oil holes for the front clutch and low-reverse brake. You should hear them clunk and they should hold pressure.

This tells you if they're leaking, not if they're slipping. If they fail the check, the transmission needs to be rebuilt / replaced. If they pass, the valve body should be disassembled and cleaned / rebuilt / replaced. If you still don't have reverse, the transmission needs to be rebuilt / replaced.

---

I'd hate for anybody to have to go through $20 of fluid (Valvoline Maxlife), $15 gasket / filter (Duralast), $20 more fluid, a valve body (????) and $20 more fluid, and still end up replacing the transmission, but at each step you're trying to avoid replacing the transmission at all cost. So yeah, it's just not a good situation.
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Old 04-22-2011, 08:23 AM   #10 (permalink)
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jnansley
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Such problems with the "Edit" function on this board. Anyhow, a few more points for posterity:

When reinstalling the valve body, it's going to be a pain to get the notch on the end of the manual valve lined back up with the shifter. I believe it was a little easier with the shifter in L. I could be mistaken on that, but you want the valve to be extended all the way to the driver's side so you can kind of see it while you're holding the VB in place. Did I mention it was heavy? You may be able to just barely start a few of the bolts to take some weight off your arm while fiddling with the manual valve. You really ought to use a 1/4" torque wrench to tighten the bolts back, I've heard the Harbor Freight one is actually pretty decent. I don't have one, so I used the Mark I uncalibrated wrist, but you can actually end up with some really odd problems if pressure leaks out between the VB and transmission. The Harbor Freight wrench is around the same price as a gallon of ATF. And heaven forbid you actually snap a bolt. I really should get me a 1/4" torque wrench.

Unplug both the solenoid (remove the clip) and temperature connectors before prying on the valve body.
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