Rebuild Ideas for my 97' 1.5l SOHC

[JKL2010]

Hello folks, I've been considering rebuilding my 1.5l engine in my 97' accent L. Its almost at 220,000 miles and I've been worried about it breaking down and I'm left stranded with no vehicle


I plan on completely rebuilding my motor with a proper engine rebuild kit

Questions:
1. How hard is it going to be?
2. What all should I buy on top of the master rebuild kit?
3. How much money am I looking to spend with this idea?
4. What else should I rebuild or fix on-top of this engine rebuild idea?


All of your feedback is appreciated!

[Albinus]

I can't give pricing advice as I have no idea when it comes to the American market - my main question is why? What condition is the rest of the vehicle in? (e.g. rust, interior, suspension etc) - at 220K miles you've really got to consider what's going on with those things before committing to rebuild an engine

As for the price - it's not likely to be cheap. The price is likely more than another used X3 Accent. Is your engine showing signs of retirement? (e.g. high oil consumption)? If you're very attached to the car, it may be worth doing, but economically I don't think it adds up sorry

[JKL2010]

Lol I've always wanted to go down to Australia!

To your main question of "Why?" I guess it's because this is my first car ever. My father has had it ever since he bought it, brand new off the lot, in 1997. So its only had two owners, my father and myself. When I purchased the car, it only had 206,383 miles on it and that was back in Aug '11, and I've been from Abilene, Tx all the way to Phoenix and back!

It is showing signs of retirement, like you said "high oil consumption", like seriously bad. I see (sometimes when the engine is semi-warm or cold) blue smoke coming out the tail pipe, which is from oil leaking into the block or something of the sort.

But yeah I really really want to keep my car operable till I get out of college.

Thank you so much for you input! I really appreciate it!

[Albinus]

How long until you're out of college? It may just be worthwhile running a thicker oil (that model could run 20W/50 in warm areas) to reduce the oil consumption and blue smoke (environmental authorities look for the blue smoke then pull you over for a chat). The blue smoke is oil seeping past the oil control rings on the pistons and being combusted - the lower end of the engine. To give you an idea, when the timing belt snapped on my LC (similar engine) to rebuild the head assembly would cost A$3000 and the bottom would undoubtedly need doing - total cost around A$5000 for a full engine rebuild. We weighed up the options, car was mechanically sound but the suspension, body and interior were showing serious signs of age. Went and bought an Elantra

Originally Posted by JKL2010

Lol I've always wanted to go down to Australia!

It's not that great... hundreds and hundreds of miles of the same, boring landscape on road trips - not like when I was in the US, much more interesting! And besides, kangaroos destroy your car

[JKL2010]

Yeah I would like to keep my little accent as much as possible. I'm about to start in January of '13 and hopefully be done by Spring of '14 (I know...sucks!) but I'll be getting a really decent computer tech degree.

I've gone all over the place, been mudding (twice, the first time resulting in an alternator going kaput). I think what I might do is take it in to like PepBoys (a name-brand auto place in the states) or maybe the dealership and have them look at it. Yeah I may pay out the rear in just the diagnostics check but at least it could narrow down what I should do to the engine. Which in turn will lower my cost on buying parts!


Does that sound like a better idea?

[JKL2010]

Originally Posted by Albinus

It's not that great... hundreds and hundreds of miles of the same, boring landscape on road trips - not like when I was in the US, much more interesting! And besides, kangaroos destroy your car

Speaking of animals and vehicles. I had a **** deer hit my rear passenger quarter glass... Little *******.... So would have shot him dead if I had my gun...

[Albinus]

Originally Posted by JKL2010

Yeah I may pay out the rear in just the diagnostics check but at least it could narrow down what I should do to the engine. Which in turn will lower my cost on buying parts!

Don't be surprised if the diagnostic shows nothing, Hyundai have pretty laid back ECUs that will only error if something significant is up. You've pretty much got a good understanding of what's up with your engine, but there's plenty of different ways you can go. If it was up to me, and you're not going to whack on another 100K miles in the next 18 months, use thicker oil and keep plugging away. Oh, and make sure your timing belt is replaced at the required interval

Little *******.... So would have shot him dead if I had my gun...

That's our problem... not allowed those anymore!

[JKL2010]

Originally Posted by Albinus

Don't be surprised if the diagnostic shows nothing, Hyundai have pretty laid back ECUs that will only error if something significant is up.

Well I was referring to having the engine itself checked out, i.e. pistons checked, pressure tests, leak tests...that sort of thing.

Originally Posted by Albinus

If it was up to me, and you're not going to whack on another 100K miles in the next 18 months, use thicker oil and keep plugging away. Oh, and make sure your timing belt is replaced at the required interval

I just changed my valve cover, cause it was cracked from over tightening, and changed the oil. I've been putting in Mobil 1 Full synthetic 10W-30, as well as a Bosch oil filter. Is that doing it some good? Or what should I go to next to?

Timing Belt: I have NO idea or clue when it was changed. I checked it today while having my Upper Timing Belt cover off in order to change my valve cover, and it looked fine....I guess lol. It had enough "tread" on it.

Is it hard to change the belt?

Originally Posted by Albinus

That's our problem... not allowed those anymore!

I'm sorry! You should come to America, and have some fun with some guns!

[Albinus]

Originally Posted by JKL2010

Well I was referring to having the engine itself checked out, i.e. pistons checked, pressure tests, leak tests...that sort of thing.

Well you can have a compression test that will give you a fair idea, but as for specifically checking pistons - the engine has to be disassembled for that (although a boroscope should give a good view of the working surface)

I just changed my valve cover, cause it was cracked from over tightening, and changed the oil. I've been putting in Mobil 1 Full synthetic 10W-30, as well as a Bosch oil filter. Is that doing it some good? Or what should I go to next to?

Did you change the valve cover gasket when you replaced it? Normally a good idea With that kind of mileage I'd be amazed that 10W/30 still does the job - how much oil do you use between oil changes? The Mobil is good oil, but there are cheaper alternatives in full synthetic (more money for the rest of the car)

Timing Belt: I have NO idea or clue when it was changed. I checked it today while having my Upper Timing Belt cover off in order to change my valve cover, and it looked fine....I guess lol. It had enough "tread" on it.

Yeah... that's the problem. You can't gauge by "tread" - if your timing belt slips, snaps or severs - you've got a good chance of destroying the engine. Timing belt should be replaced every 90,000KM or 5 years, whatever comes first (Australian specs, US may vary). Ask your Dad if he has any logbooks, or receipts on when it was changed.

Is it hard to change the belt?

It's not so much hard as fiddly, and ensuring all the pulleys are in perfect alignment. A timing belt incorrectly fitted can result in anything from a rough running engine to the same consequence as a broken belt - engine destruction. It's one of the few things I didn't touch with the Accent (paid a professional and they overtensioned it, go figure)

I'm sorry! You should come to America, and have some fun with some guns!

Yeah, in 1996 some lunatic shot 35 people with a semi automatic, since then guns are tightly controlled. There's three groups of people that have semi automatics now; farmers, law enforcement and organised criminal gangs. You even need a licence for a BB gun!

[JKL2010]

Originally Posted by Albinus

Well you can have a compression test that will give you a fair idea, but as for specifically checking pistons - the engine has to be disassembled for that (although a boroscope should give a good view of the working surface)

Yeah I would like to have that done, where do you think the best place to find a "boroscope"?

Originally Posted by Albinus

Did you change the valve cover gasket when you replaced it? Normally a good idea With that kind of mileage I'd be amazed that 10W/30 still does the job - how much oil do you use between oil changes? The Mobil is good oil, but there are cheaper alternatives in full synthetic (more money for the rest of the car)

Gasket: I did not actually, I changed it back in May of '12, my cousin put "Hi-Tack" as the sealant, but whenever I took it off the cover the sealant was barely visible. So I just cleaned it up and checked for cracks or breaks, none visible, and then put some "Permatex Ultra Black" gasket sealant and its holding up good now.
Mileage/Oil: As for the mileage I currently have 219,950, the oil consumption varies (cause different driving conditions and heat), but I put in the right amount of 4qts and its running fine now. It’s funny cause I before I did that, I noticed some "Blow-by" whenever I took off the oil filler cap. After I filled it with the Mobil 1 oil it was just a solid air flow, no little puff puffs. It fills a lot better too! While driving that is!

Originally Posted by Albinus

Yeah... that's the problem. You can't gauge by "tread" - if your timing belt slips, snaps or severs - you've got a good chance of destroying the engine. Timing belt should be replaced every 90,000KM or 5 years, whatever comes first (Australian specs, US may vary). Ask your Dad if he has any logbooks, or receipts on when it was changed.

Timing Belt: I see, yeah I don't want that to happen, I saw someone's post concerning their timing belt and having it shear and everything went to **** inside their engine....I certainly don't want that to happen to me while driving down the road. I have asked my dad and he doesn't have much, he still has yet to find the title for the darn thing Lol!

Originally Posted by Albinus

It's not so much hard as fiddly, and ensuring all the pulleys are in perfect alignment. A timing belt incorrectly fitted can result in anything from a rough running engine to the same consequence as a broken belt - engine destruction. It's one of the few things I didn't touch with the Accent (paid a professional and they overtensioned it, go figure)

I see, so maybe I should go to the direct dealership and have them do it, instead of going to a nation-wide change of mechanics shop do it?

Originally Posted by Albinus

Yeah, in 1996 some lunatic shot 35 people with a semi automatic, since then guns are tightly controlled. There's three groups of people that have semi automatics now; farmers, law enforcement and organised criminal gangs. You even need a licence for a BB gun!

That's...um a little messed up. Heck I remember reading a story concerning a L.A. bank robbery back in the 90's with two "heavily armored men" with AK-47s with drum mags and all hyped up on coke or something... Then right after that President Clinton enacted the "Federal Assault Weapons Ban", what a crock of crap.... But oh well I follow all required State, City and County firearm laws.

Question: Do you think my Hyundai would survive the Australian terrain? loll I would love to try it!