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Old 02-28-2007, 09:05 AM   #1 (permalink)
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According to TSB 04-05-005 the wheel nut torque for a Sonata is 80 lb-ft. The document is dated May 04....does this still apply for the new 06 Sonata? Whatdaya think?
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Old 02-28-2007, 11:24 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I set my torque wrench to 85. Oh yea, if your lugs look a bit rusty, DO NOT clean them with an oil-based lubricant, or your nuts will go flying off after about 25 miles. (Been there, done that.)
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Old 03-01-2007, 12:17 AM   #3 (permalink)
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according to the hmaservice web site the proper lug nut torque for the 06 sonata is between 90-110 lb/ft. you are wise to ask this question. over tight lug nuts can cause the rotors to warp,leading to brake failure and costly repairs. my lugs are set @ 90 & i purchased a quality torque wrench @ the tirerack.com for about $30.00. where ever i go to have any tire work or rotations , i bring my wrench and insist it is used.many techs will simply use an impact gun to tighten the lugs. then there is a" torque stick" witch is mounted to the end of the air gun.they come in different colors-each color will tighten to a pre-determed setting as stated on the stick. i still prefer a torque wrench- in my opinion it's the best. becides tight nuts are painful. lol
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Old 10-22-2007, 11:11 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by todd@Mar 1 2007, 01:17 AM
[b]according to the hmaservice web site the proper lug nut torque for the 06 sonata is between 90-110 lb/ft.

While searching for some info I encountered this discussion.
Although it is old, I feel I must correct some wrong information.

Hmaservice does not state the torque as 90-110 ft-lb
It states it as 90-110 Nm

From hmaservice:
Tightening torque.
Tightening torque Nm (kgf·m, lb-ft) :
90 ~ 110 (9 ~ 11, 65.1 ~ 79.5)
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Old 10-22-2007, 11:27 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I hope no one did theirs up to 110 ft/lb.
Good luck changing a tire in the rain, lol. You'd have to body slam that little wrench before you'd ever get them off.
Assuming of course you didn't warp your rotors.

65-75 ft/lb is where you wanna be.
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Old 10-22-2007, 12:21 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by motd@Feb 28 2007, 11:24 AM
[b]I set my torque wrench to 85. Oh yea, if your lugs look a bit rusty, DO NOT clean them with an oil-based lubricant, or your nuts will go flying off after about 25 miles. (Been there, done that.)
[snapback]75248[/snapback]
[b]THAT SOUNDS PAINFUL!!!! Good one motd!
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Old 11-21-2007, 12:39 PM   #7 (permalink)
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just swapped my summers for my winters and set my torque to 75ftlb... now I have a few questions...

1) Is it better/advised to tighten the bolts while the wheel is off the ground or on the groud?

2) Is the bolt torque a function of the wheel or the car (i.e. the bolt)? Reason I ask is because when spring time comes around and I have to put back on my summer tires, which are on custom rims... so what torque do I have tighten those to?

Thanks.
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Old 11-21-2007, 01:56 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Oil is not a good idea for the lugs but cleaning them and applying a small amount of anti-seize is a good idea to keep the lugs from corroding to the studs and/or wheels.

Quote:
Originally posted by ironman@Nov 21 2007, 12:39 PM
[b]1) Is it better/advised to tighten the bolts while the wheel is off the ground or on the groud?

2) Is the bolt torque a function of the wheel or the car (i.e. the bolt)?* Reason I ask is because when spring time comes around and I have to put back on my summer tires, which are on custom rims... so what torque do I have tighten those to?
[snapback]120323[/snapback]
1) Personally, I get them "90% tight" with a cross-bar wrench while the wheels are off the ground, then lower the car and use a torque wrenct to get to final torque.

2) It has to do more with the studs on the car, not really the wheel. You want the stud to stretch a specific amount. Too much torque stretches he stud too much and applies too much force to the rotor.
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Old 11-21-2007, 04:39 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by NovaResource@Nov 21 2007, 02:56 PM
[b]1) Personally, I get them "90% tight" with a cross-bar wrench while the wheels are off the ground, then lower the car and use a torque wrenct to get to final torque.

2) It has to do more with the studs on the car, not really the wheel.* You want the stud to stretch a specific amount.* Too much torque stretches he stud too much and applies too much force to the rotor.
[snapback]120339[/snapback]
thanks.

1)... cools that's what I did... then I dorve it around for a bit, then re-checked/re-torqued the bolts again.

2)ok... so the torque should be the same (i.e. 65-75 ftlb) regarless of what wheels on mounted??
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Old 11-27-2008, 08:35 PM   #10 (permalink)
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The quality genius mechanic at my dealer had over torqued the lug nuts on my right front wheel when they reinstalled after "investigating" the source of my exhaust rattle. I had found this after a short time when I went to rotate my tires and also developed a slight brake vibration.

Well on the last visit they cut that rotor under warranty eliminating the pulsation. Now the genius (same one? different one?) cross threaded one of the lugs when he reinstalled it. Combination of too much torque the first time and lord knows what he did this time as he cross threaded it, but, as I went to install my snow tires today the one lug was "stuck". I gave it a little more effort (hands only on a SMALL 4 way lug wrench) and SNAP the whole stud sheared off, the the lug nut still attached to the half that fell off. I'll be at the dealer first thing in the AM to first seriously complain and then wait while they change all the studs on the right front.

Watch your torque carefully especially with the over enthusiastic monkeys that like to pretend the impact gun is a machine gun. It's just not tightened right until you here about 40 rounds of pop, pop, pop, pop like you were trying to eliminate the enemy.

According to the manual it SHOULD be 65-80 ft/lbs as stated.
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