I just finished mine today.
Front: Remove the tweeters first; gently pry at the top corner to release the clip then pivot off at the bottom. The connectors release with a push in the middle; the release is hidden under the foam. Try each middle until you can pull the plug apart.
One covered screw near the top outer edge; two more near the hinge. Two uncovered at the bottom. One covered by a round rubber in the bottom of the door handle. One covered by a square plastic cover in the door unlatch handle trim.
About six round plastic clips around the edge; after the first is released with a panel tool you can release the rest with your hand.
Pivot away from the window, lift and wiggle away. Left has 4 connectors; right has 2.
Rear: One covered screw near the top outer edge; one more near the hinge. One uncovered at the bottom. One covered by a round rubber, one covered by a square plastic. Clips are similar.
Drill out the four 3/16" rivets and remove the factory speaker. You'll have to remove the rivet bodies; the only tool I know that does a good job is a Dremel with a cutoff wheel followed with a center punch and several swear words.
You'll need adapters because the speakers are non-standard size; Scosche adapters
from Crutchfield You have to drill 3 holes for the adapters; I used 3/16" aluminum pop rivets. The Scosche adapters take 6 1/2" speakers.
I also recommend "shortie" XTC foam baffles
also available from Crutchfield. They go in behind each speaker, protecting it from dirt and water. They also give a more natural sound. Although some don't like (or think they wouldn't like) the effect with certain speakers, I like my vocals accurate. I just added them behind my Polk db-650's, and vocals sound much better without the midrange rattling around in the door cavity.
If you decide to do the radio, amplifier and/or subwoofer, there's loads of help here, too.
Edited to add links and pictures.