Bendix Ct-3 Pads And Raybestos Rotors Installed Pics

[stephen9666]

I just bought a used 2007 Hyundai Sonata that turned out to need front brakes. I decided to go with Bendix CT-3 pads. I had been considering Akebono ProAct pads, but the Bendix were around $10 cheaper and both get good reviews. I paid $46 shipped from Amazon.

[b]
Pads First Impression

When the pads first arrived, I panicked because the clips said "made in China." I had read online that these pads were made in the USA, but I didn't email the company. (BTW- Akebono told me the ProACTs are made in Kentucky.) Luckily, it turned out the pads were made in Canada. The pads are GG rated. The originals are marked FF.











[b]Rotors First Impression

I’ve recently been trying to avoid made in China products, but I didn’t have much choice for rotors. I settled on Raybestos Professionals for $27 shipped each from Amazon. I’ve since found out I could have bought EBC rotors for $75 each (made in USA or UK), or Auto 7 brand rotors for $41 each (Most likely Korean made).

The Raybestos rotors appear to be well made, from a casual inspection. They seem to have a similar thickness to the OE rotors, but I didn’t measure them. The vanes also appear to be very similar to the OE design. They seem to be well machined.








[b]Installation and Break In

I installed the brakes yesterday. The installation went fine. I used the 30-30-30 burnishing method recommended on the Bendix website. The pads definitely heated up, because I could smell them.

I was initially dissapointed. After the break in the car seemed to stop fine, but the pedal was very soft. I cracked open the bleeders when I pushed the piston back in the caliper, so I thought maybe I let some air in the system.

After sitting overnight and cooling down, the pedal feel has definitely improved. The car stops well and the pedal is firmer, but it still doesn’t seem as firm as it was before. However, I could be misremembering how firm it was, as I've only had the car for two weeks. I may try bleeding the brakes this weekend and see if that improves it.

[v33sonata]

QUOTE (stephen9666 @ Apr 20 2011, 07:33 PM)

I just bought a used 2007 Hyundai Sonata that turned out to need front brakes. I decided to go with Bendix CT-3 pads. I had been considering Akebono ProAct pads, but the Bendix were around $10 cheaper and both get good reviews. I paid $46 shipped from Amazon.

[b]
Pads First Impression

When the pads first arrived, I panicked because the clips said "made in China." I had read online that these pads were made in the USA, but I didn't email the company. (BTW- Akebono told me the ProACTs are made in Kentucky.) Luckily, it turned out the pads were made in Canada. The pads are GG rated. The originals are marked FF.











[b]Rotors First Impression

I’ve recently been trying to avoid made in China products, but I didn’t have much choice for rotors. I settled on Raybestos Professionals for $27 shipped each from Amazon. I’ve since found out I could have bought EBC rotors for $75 each (made in USA or UK), or Auto 7 brand rotors for $41 each (Most likely Korean made).

The Raybestos rotors appear to be well made, from a casual inspection. They seem to have a similar thickness to the OE rotors, but I didn’t measure them. The vanes also appear to be very similar to the OE design. They seem to be well machined.








[b]Installation and Break In

I installed the brakes yesterday. The installation went fine. I used the 30-30-30 burnishing method recommended on the Bendix website. The pads definitely heated up, because I could smell them.

I was initially dissapointed. After the break in the car seemed to stop fine, but the pedal was very soft. I cracked open the bleeders when I pushed the piston back in the caliper, so I thought maybe I let some air in the system.

After sitting overnight and cooling down, the pedal feel has definitely improved. The car stops well and the pedal is firmer, but it still doesn’t seem as firm as it was before. However, I could be misremembering how firm it was, as I've only had the car for two weeks. I may try bleeding the brakes this weekend and see if that improves it.

LOL pads are the worst to find where they are made also what brand they actually are. When I worked for checkers now o' reilys we got weekly updates to change out the boxes from a raybestos box to say a bendix. Not sure what name were what but its crazy. From what I understand unless u are getting a well known name like EBC you really dont know what your getting.

[TeamRF]

i got the EBC Slotted and dimpled rotors and redstuff pads from summit racing, waiting for them to arrive will post pics of install

[Dennis the Mennis]

QUOTE

From what I understand unless u are getting a well known name like EBC you really dont know what your getting.

You're getting the business from the cheapest supplier.

KC's brakes were replaced by a local shop; I was shocked by the cost 'till I looked up what he installed. It was mostly parts; as near as I can tell, all are top rated.

[stephen9666]

QUOTE (v33sonata @ Apr 21 2011, 12:50 AM)

LOL pads are the worst to find where they are made also what brand they actually are. When I worked for checkers now o' reilys we got weekly updates to change out the boxes from a raybestos box to say a bendix. Not sure what name were what but its crazy. From what I understand unless u are getting a well known name like EBC you really dont know what your getting.

I bet the boxes all had the same country of origin, probably China.

Bendix CT-3 are top-end pads, whether they are produced by another company doesn't matter to me. They get good reviews online. Since they are made in Canada, perhaps they are made by Satisfied Brake Parts.

http://www.satisfiedbrakes.com/brakes/index.html

I should also update:

The brake pedal is definitely firming up. The car stops very well, but I may try bleeding the brakes anyway just to see if I get any improvement in pedal feel.

[stephen9666]

Well, it's been six months, and I've put around 10k miles on these pads. I had some problems at first with the pads, but it appears I glazed them during break in, and it took around 4k miles to wear through the overheated pad material.

I'm really satisfied with these pads and would install them on any other of my vehicles that needed new brakes. They offer good performance for the price, as far as I'm concerned. Plus, the aren't made in China. That's important to me, although I did have to go with Chinese rotors for this brake job.


However, the only thing I would say to a prospective buyer is go easy on the bedding in. You don't want to glaze them like I did.

For those who don't know, glazing is generally caused when you overheat brake pads. A small layer of material on the pad is damaged by the heat and stopping performance is hurt. It appears I was too aggressive during the pad break in and I glazed the pads.

Bendix can't seem to settle on a break in procedure. The first method is found at this link. It is a the 30-30-30 method. That means 30 stops (but not complete stops) from 30 mph with 30 seconds between stops. It appears I overheated the pads with this method, likely because I used too much pressure on the pedal.

They also recommend a less aggressive method here.

A series of controlled moderate speed stops (15-20 Stops from 30-mph w/30 sec cool down) is required to properly "burnish" or break-in a new set of pads. During this initial stopping period, the process of lining transfer from the disc pads to the rotor surface helps condition the rotor surface to properly seat the brake pads. All pads are cured and all pads need to be burnished.

I would highly recommend these pads, but I would warn to go easy on them if you choose to use a break-in procedure. If I had to do it over again, I would only do a few medium-pressure stops and then drive normally.

[RobRiguez]

I've been changing my own pads and rotors for 20 years. The only "break in" I do is once around the block with an initial very soft, slow, stop. Then a hard stop as I'm pulling up to the house. Done. Never had a problem.

[veilside1]

My standard break in procedure is about 10 hard ( to where you almost activate the ABS ) brake applications from 60mph to almost but not quite a stop. By the end of this procedure you will notice a slight purple hue to your new rotors, your brake pedal will be a bit soft, and you will smell the burning resins .

Drive the vehicle around for about 10 minutes without applying brakes to allow them to cool. Then park vehicle overnight.

And the thing you'll notice with these pads is that they don't really brake that well until you get some heat in them, so that first stop on a cold morning usually requires a bit more effort on the pedal than any other stop.

[edgarhighmen]

Whats a good brake upgrade idea? Is it better to get "quality" pads with new rotors (slotted or drilled)? Do you need "new" or specific calipers to run with the new pads and rotors? Can you put larger rotors/pads on the car? I saw a BMW and both front and rear rotors filled the inner area of the rims. Most cars I see either a larger front smaller rear rotor, or vice versa.

Any quality pads/rotors with lifetime warranty? I'm currently using Duralast Cmax Gold ceramic pads (return to store for free new ones when worn!) but I think my rotors are goin dead? Kinda wavy, haven't "inspected" for defects beyond that, and I think someone told me they were too thin to put on the lathe? (when taken to shop once) How do you tell if rotors are goin thin?

[stephen9666]

Well, I guess I'll offer a really long-term update.

I have about 30k miles on these pads. Still performing great. No noise, very good stopping performance. I can't really comment that much about dust. There doesn't seem to be that much, but I'm not very diligent about cleaning my wheels.

I would definitely buy these pads again.