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Old 09-08-2012, 12:30 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 2003 elantra gt performance mods

I posted this in the elantra fourm and not a single person answered so i will try to post it here.

"i recently purchased an 03 elantra gt just to drive on weekends at a race track for fun, i bough it to be a super sleeper and was woundering if anyone has any ideas of what i can do to it? im very mechanicly inclined, i have a few performance cars but they dont look stealthy".

JUST for weekends only wont be a daily driver so anything will help like chips or how well they do boost?
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Old 09-09-2012, 04:36 PM   #2 (permalink)
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assuming you have 2.0 beta engine (1975cc, 141hp stock)

It's pretth much the "same" car as 2.0 tiburon 03-08. i've had a boosted 2003 tiburon.

chips - bull poop. I've had SAM2000 hooked up as "standalone" ecu.
cam - being a long stroke engine, you can only rev up to 7600rpmish safely. some racecars have been running @ 8000 and making 210hp at the wheels.
boost - it's too weak to drive a supercharger, up to 250hp, you can use stock internals with a good tuning (yes, even stock compression ratio)
and then anything above needs low compression pistons BUT up to 350 (maybe 380)hp, you can get away relatively safely using a thicker head gasket to make 8.5 compression ratio.

up to 250hp, use GT2530 turbine for best responsiveness and more-than-enough CFM. i've had a crazy friend who boosted 250hp out of beta 2.0 with 11.5psi
of course you'll need a pretty looking turbo manifold and 2.5inch custom exhaust turbo back.

up to 380hp, use GT28xx i've had GT28RS, but looks like 2871 for responsiveness 2876 for more top end power.
i had 3" full pipe incl. down pipe from turbo no cat.

and anything above, it's really not usable on track only gonna be for drag but then what are you going to do with FWD drag car :P

and for transmission, anything above 200whp, you will bust your transmission every other month or more often depending on how smoothly you can race.

another friend of mine had 450whp tiburon (yes 2.0L) with 6speed manual transmission only available for the year's tiburon GT V6. and never ever had a tranny issue. so i'm gonna tell you it's been proven (over years) to handle that sort of power. (it's made in japan)


if you want cheap braking system, swap the lightweight one from tiburon V6 (idk about knuckle. i had a custom bracket with brembo F50)

happy boosting
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Old 09-10-2012, 06:29 PM   #3 (permalink)
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that seems way to high on stock internal? how can it make that much engine power in stock internal engine? other threads i saw that the MAX was 200 BHP not even WHP which isnt good enough for even all bolt ons, including cams, chip, exhaust, intake, would be 200 as is. is this false?
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Old 09-10-2012, 09:46 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by range-hadies View Post
that seems way to high on stock internal? how can it make that much engine power in stock internal engine? other threads i saw that the MAX was 200 BHP not even WHP which isnt good enough for even all bolt ons, including cams, chip, exhaust, intake, would be 200 as is. is this false?
and as to why beta engines can take such a beating with stock internal,
long story short, hyundai's previous alpha engine failed in durability so hyundai designed a 300hp engine and used it for 150hp production engine.
rumor says it was supposed to be turbo'd for tiburon but thanks to conservative management, it never happened back in 2002, then it got the 2.7 V6 as higher trim.

oh I might add, you won't even need forged expensive pistons for lower compression ratio. there's 2.0L and 1.8L versions of beta engine, get the 1.8L version pistons & connecting rods and slap it onto the 2.0 crank, you got yourself a low compression motor.

as far as 2.0 beta goes, and also (only) based on what i've seen,
cams, exhaust, intake, and a custom tune and valvetrain upgrade will give you 180-200whp. there's no chip out there that'll give a 2.0 beta 200hp. you need to whip those longa$$ stroked pistons to 5000ft/min. chips sux :P
also, i'm losing my memory since i sold my turbo tiburon, but if OP is planning to go naturally aspirated, there's a compatible gasket from 1.5L engine that's really really thin(well, thinner than 2.0 beta stock) so you can go N/A with OEM(quality? i guess) gasket. but watch for valve clearance. some users had reported piston kissing valves due to high lift of cams.


oh I might add, you won't even need forged expensive pistons for lower compression ratio. there's 2.0L and 1.8L versions of beta engine, get the 1.8L version pistons & connecting rods and slap it onto the 2.0 crank, you got yourself a low compression motor.
it's somewhere around 8-8.3:1, i swear i knew it but i forgot.

*note* if you need that low compression ratio,(assuming a huge turbine or high boost over 25psi) this is not a permanent solution but it will keep you going until your forged rotating assemblies are custom made & shipped.

when my friend with 250hp tiburon went into a shop for engine overhaul, he personally went to hyundai parts depot (in korea, he lives in korea) and weighed (pretty sure almost all of what depot had) pistons, pins and connecting rods and picked 4 closest one -_-; and rings too, then cross-matched them so the rotating assembly was really balanced without any machining then the bore was honed to each piston.
crank counterweight was trimmed down to skinny rectangular blocks, meanwhile being balanced.
it was a fully equipped racing facility. like a racing team running a performance garage off season.


his car still had the 5spd for stock 141hp engine with just clutch assy upgrade, so he blew his transmission every other month but said it's cheaper that way than swapping 6speed (road course race proven @ 400hp)


if you don't plan to exceed 350hp, you can get away with thick gasket like i mentioned in the original reply but then you need to adjust timing components because the long block becomes taller (i didn't write this up there did i?)

heck, the block runs 700hp-ish at korean drag racings with all forged internals. of course honed but still isn't that pretty f-ing impressive for a 141hp OEM block?



I have to make myself clear, I don't know how well-informed the other thread you mentioned was (which would be pretty convincing with most of the production engines) but I've owned 350hp turbo 2.0 with 8.5:1 gasket and OEM short block, and mechanic and I came to conclusion it's best i stick with 15W50
hmm let see, mod list,, 630cc injectors, walbro 255 fuel pump, fuel return, custom vacuum (of course) 38mm wastegate, big enough intercooler to shy away stock Evo, stock valvetrain can rev up to 7,200. my fuel cut was at 7200 so it did blip little more than that but i've never had problem with floating valves. but you DO feel the power go down after 6k rpm so unless it's cammed, no point revving (other than matching shift points for certain ahh blah, nvm)

and the friend who had GT2530 @ 0.8bar to make 250hp (that's a LOT for that boost), don't remember his compression ratio but it was definitely at or higher than 9:1 (also thick gasket)

both my car and his car ran premium fuel


and come to think of it, there is a car that can be boosted a lot with stock internals (maybe head studs) buick Grand national.
came from factory as 16second car (rounded up :P) can be boosted to 12, 13's


going back to beta engine, that (the beta engine was made unnecessarily stronger than stock application) would be why the newer theta engine is not popular as modification base although the new ECU and even VVT have been completely reverse engineered.



one line summary : i don't know what US spec engines are, but my korean spec stock internals were fine @ 17.4-22psi (electronic boost controller) for about,,, 40,000miles and well, i can't discuss here but korean roads just gives me smile boooooooooooooooooooooost
i'm sure it would have went more if i kept it (the SUS304(?) manifold started to leak when i sold it but compression was fine)

Last edited by Not_My_Elantra; 09-10-2012 at 09:50 PM.
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Old 09-10-2012, 09:53 PM   #5 (permalink)
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thought i might add this on a separate reply, when it comes to boost/power or MPG/power, it's all about tuning.

some idiot tuners will tell you to bypass the oxygen sensor (now if it's a track car, sure) but if it will be tagged & registered, i highly suggest utilizing O2 sensor for optimal fuel economy and best power at everyday driving range (throttle, rpm, boost)
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Old 09-12-2012, 09:43 PM   #6 (permalink)
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What if i have both 02 sensors connected to the exhaust but with no cats? i know itle give me a check engine light saying my cat is clogged or not working, but it wont take away power right? 2nd 02 sensor is only for cat monitor right?
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Old 09-13-2012, 12:25 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by range-hadies View Post
What if i have both 02 sensors connected to the exhaust but with no cats? i know itle give me a check engine light saying my cat is clogged or not working, but it wont take away power right? 2nd 02 sensor is only for cat monitor right?

sometimes spark plug defouler on the 2nd cat works to prevent CEL.
worked for me. my car didn't have cat. actually it had a flange, whenever i didn't want it i took the cat out, replaced with straight 3" pipe.

btw, none of my business, but why no cat on a street car?
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Old 09-13-2012, 09:03 PM   #8 (permalink)
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It wont be a street car, as i attempted to state, it wont be a daily driver it will be a track day car only, will be towed to a track to use. thats why im takin any suggestions at all.
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Old 09-15-2012, 11:14 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Nice info, I just picked up a 03 Elantra today that I'm planning on putting a DSM 16g on it... Nice read
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Old 09-16-2012, 05:13 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pearlwhite08 View Post
Nice info, I just picked up a 03 Elantra today that I'm planning on putting a DSM 16g on it... Nice read

nice turbo there.

btw i thought i had to make it clear, i ran 380hp no problem with oil AND coolant line to the turbo. the widely accepted "safe" limit with stock internals with 8.5:1 gasket (non VVT 7,200rpm) is 300ish.
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