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Old 11-06-2012, 01:08 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Unhappy Getz 1.3 (G4EA) Check Engine Light and Cooling Fan on

Hi There,

I am desperately in need of help here.

Here is the scenario, wifey drove with the car to work (approx 55km one way), and on her way back, she heard a noise in the engine, pulled over and then she saw the heat gauge in the red

We then towed the car home, and I found that the radiator cap was missing and obviously no coolant left in the radiator. So I filled up the coolant and tried to start, but all the water pushed out of the radiator while cranking. So here is what I did.

Removed the cylinder head, skimmed, and replaced with a new top gasket along with new timing belt, timing belt tension pully, fan belts etc etc. I have to mention as well that there was A LOT of sludge under the valve rocker cover, so I washed it all away with diesel before fitting the cylinder head again.

Okay so a long story short, Assembled everything, filled up with coolant and new oil, new spark plugs as well. Started the engine up and it runs quiet and sounds normal on idle, didn't rev it much, took it for a drive and sounds normal for a motor with 90k km on.

BUT

Here is my problem, the Check Engine light does not go off, and the radiator fan stays on, even when the engine is cold. I have removed the battery pole for 30min, in order to clear the check engine light. When I connect the battery and start, the check engine light goes OFF, but the fan still stays on, with engine still cold. When I switch off the engine, and start again, the check engine light stays ON again...

I really hope someone has got some help for me here, as wifey now struggles with transport to work.

Thanks once again.
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Old 11-06-2012, 08:24 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Looks like you went through a lot of work, and probably not needing it, bu anyway, if your fan runs when engine is cool, there may be several situations happening:

1) Have in mind that if the Air Conditioner is activated, the cooling fan will work ALL THE TIME, regardless of engine temperature.

2) The coolant (cooling system) is not well bleed. There may be several "air pockets" around engine which prevent proper coolant circulation. See attached service manual pages for coolant refilling and bleeding.

3) The thermostat and/or engine coolant temperature may be bad. See attached service manual pages for checking this too.

Let us know your findings.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf GETZ COOLANT REFILLING.pdf (217.2 KB, 28 views)
File Type: pdf GETZ COOLANT SENSOR AND THERMOSTAT.pdf (48.7 KB, 26 views)
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Old 11-06-2012, 09:55 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Hi,

Thank you for your reply...

Trust me, all the work I have done was necessary, when I removed the exhaust manifold, I have turned the engine with a spanner, and water came out of no3 cylinder, also, when I drained the engine oil, there was a layer of water draining first and then the oil came out, so the top gasket has definitely blown.

I have squeezed both the upper and lower coolant pipes to ensure that there are no air pockets, but will recheck again later today. Also, if the car idles for a while, the temp goes to the normal mark and stays there the whole time, with the fan still blowing. I also checked that the A/C is switched off.

I'm suspecting the heat sensor, because even if I unplug the plug on the heat sensor, the fan still runs while the engine is cold.

Thanks, I will keep you posted after the re-check.
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Old 11-07-2012, 12:33 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Default SOLVED :o)

Thanks for your help I have found the problem.

The heat sensor on the outlet coolant pipe. The plug did not make contact with one of the three pins, as soon as I corrected that, the fan stopped and check engine light went off... So Happy about this.

would you perhaps know if the rocker rattle (not very loud, but hear it when accelerating) is normal for 90k km?
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:04 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BaaZ View Post
Thanks for your help I have found the problem.

The heat sensor on the outlet coolant pipe. The plug did not make contact with one of the three pins, as soon as I corrected that, the fan stopped and check engine light went off... So Happy about this.

would you perhaps know if the rocker rattle (not very loud, but hear it when accelerating) is normal for 90k km?
Glad to see you found the problem and fixed it.

"Rocker rattle" is normal when engine es cold and it should go away (but not completely) after 15 minutes of engine running.

Sometimes the "fuel injector click" (actuation) can be confused with valve rocker rattle.

Anyway, at 90k kms, there should be no failure of the HLA's (hydraulic lift actuators), that when failing to keep oil pressure, they will produce the distinctive rocker rattle "all the time".

But... at 90k kms, some engine wear is normal and your normal engine oil grade (specs) may be "to thin" for the needed purpose. On your next oil change, you can go ahead and use a higher viscosity oil (one or to steps above) without fearing engine damage. You can perfectly use 20w-50 unless facing freezing temperatures. This may get rid of the rocker rattle.
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Old 08-14-2013, 12:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Hi There,

Thank you for your replies, you sure gave me some good advice

but now, after drving the car for 16000 km after the top gasket replacement, the engine runs very good, however, today the check engine light started flashing while driving. I have checked electrical plugs to ensure there is nothing unplugged, but the light remains flashing.

How do I reset? Just to see if it comes back, and if it comes back, are there some quick checks I can do?

Thanks.
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